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i3luechaos 07-11-2008 11:19 AM

2002 2.7 Stalled @ Red light, won't start - oil light problem
Yesterday I stopped at a red light & my idle drastically fell & the car stalled out. Was able to get it started by hitting the gas pedal enough to get across the intersection to the curb before it stalled again. Went out today & it still wouldn't start. Tried a little bit ago & got it started up rough by hitting the gas again. Let it idle on it's own for like 30 seconds & it stalled out. (rough idle, car shaking & a popping type sound).(no clue what the popping noise was, belt seems fine, it was newer) Any ideas what the problem could be? I don't know much about cars myself except that I made a bad decision to get a 2.7. I read around & seen it could possibly be the crank sensor? I have also had the common 2002 2.7 intrepid oil light problem. My oil light comes on all the time after the cars hot & only when stopping, braking & pretty much not accelerating. Could never find a fix online for this. Replaced the oil sensor & that didn't work. Bought the car like 5 months ago. It has around 95k miles. Just drove to Ohio & back home (to Pittsburgh) twice in the last month. About 400 miles all together & it was fine. My g/f said when she had the car one day the idle fell & the car almost stalled but it didn't.
Any advice on either of these two problems would be helpful & appreciated.

kurts2 07-11-2008 12:59 PM

RE: 2002 2.7 Stalled @ Red light, won't start - oil light problem
I don't think its the crank sensor (or cam) because the symptom of pushing the gas pedal to get it limping. It's probably either fuelor timing related. The timing is usually caused by a sticking MAP sensor. Unplug the MAP sensor and crank engine. If it runs (but not too well under a load), replace the sensor for less than $50. It's common...

As for the oil light, I'd "ungunk" it with an engine oil cleaner and then run with a synthetic before your engine goes. I have the 3.5 so I'm no expert on how to resolve the gunk issue, but this would be my start.

Let me know, we can go from there.


DESIREESAVENGER 07-11-2008 06:19 PM

RE: 2002 2.7 Stalled @ Red light, won't start - oil light problem
I've been a Dodge tech for the last 24 years and don't recall replacing many map sensors on 2.7s. I would put a fuel pressure guage on it. Check the codes for a bad cam or crank sensor. From your description thats where I would start.

kurts2 07-11-2008 08:41 PM

RE: 2002 2.7 Stalled @ Red light, won't start - oil light problem
From what I've seen, the CAM & crank sensors have a total fail, not intermitant. They also throw a code. As I said before, it could be fuel related however, for a FREE check, just unplug the MAP sensor and see what happens. We can go from there.

i3luechaos 07-14-2008 10:03 AM

RE: 2002 2.7 Stalled @ Red light, won't start - oil light problem
Thanks for the advice. Where is the Map Sensor located? As I said, I'm not to knowledgeable about cars. My roomate said he'd start with the crank sensor. Haven't really had the time to look at it til today. The crank sensor is $20 at advanced so I figure I'd start with that. Don't really have the money at the moment to get it towed & don't have or know anyone with a comp. to check the codes.

kurts2 07-14-2008 11:07 AM

RE: 2002 2.7 Stalled @ Red light, won't start - oil light problem
1. Go to the top of the second gen forum and see the post " the holy grail." Download PDF and go to pg 14-32. It will show location and removal procedure for the MAP. If you disconnect the electrical connector, the PCM will enter a default value (limp in mode). If the MAP was sticking and the cause of the problem, you can start and drive the car (light gas pedal only).

2. If a Crank or CAM sensor is out, the ASD (auto shut down) relay would shut off in 2 seconds. This would shut off the fuel pump, fuel injectors and coil. Even if you mash the gas pedal, the engine will not run. A dirty plug or faulty wire can cause an intermittent problem and that could cause a rough idle or stall, but replacing it won’t help. That is unless in doing so, you cleaned the connector, either with a contact cleaner, or just the physical motion of removing and reinstalling the plug. Also shifting the wire will sometimes temporally fix it…(some folks call this a “reseat”, but the problem is sure to come back).

3. You can use the key trick to read the codes. Turn the key from off-to-run (not start where the starter is cranking) three times, on the third time, leave it in the run position. On older models, the engine lamp will start a series of blinks which equate to engine faults (like Morse code). I believe on your year, you only need look in the odometer window, and the faults will scroll by. Let me know if you have any, and if so, what they are.


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