Smoke switch? anyone know how?
#31
10-18-2012, 08:49 PM
you kids and your smoke...
get injectors...6x.018s will make more smoke than you know what to do with
problem is they will smoke at idle too, and pretty much 100% of the time...and your injection pump cant keep up with injectors that size, and definitely not your turbo...
7x.010 injectors will make all the smoke you will ever want and if you keep your edge box turned down it won't overheat and overspool your turbo...
by themselves those injectors will make more power than your edge did...
get injectors...6x.018s will make more smoke than you know what to do with
problem is they will smoke at idle too, and pretty much 100% of the time...and your injection pump cant keep up with injectors that size, and definitely not your turbo...
7x.010 injectors will make all the smoke you will ever want and if you keep your edge box turned down it won't overheat and overspool your turbo...
by themselves those injectors will make more power than your edge did...
Last edited by Jigabop; 10-18-2012 at 08:51 PM.
#32
10-18-2012, 08:54 PM
#34
10-20-2012, 04:09 PM
guess it depends on if you want dirty or clean injectors lol.
they usually run about $600 + $150 core charge (refundable if you give them your stock injectors)
basically all aftermarket injectors are rebuilt bodies with new nozzles machined to tip design and hole count x hole size specs, new springs and new or re-machined pintle's.
there's two major designs of injectors. SAC and VCO. stock is a VCO design. aftermarket is usually a SAC design. some builders change the pintles and reshape them to work better and run cleaner. some don't which makes the injector run a bit hotter. same with injector spray angles. some injector angles do not perform as well, smoke more, and run hotter EGTs.
so the real question is...do you really want excess smoke and higher EGTs along with more power, or do you want minimal smoke, lower EGTs and the same kind of power if not a little more power than the dirty injectors...
I ask because I can either recommend one of the two best injector builders in the country (Chris and Weston) or I can recommend something that will be smokey and hotter (DDP, RSD, Scheid)
they usually run about $600 + $150 core charge (refundable if you give them your stock injectors)
basically all aftermarket injectors are rebuilt bodies with new nozzles machined to tip design and hole count x hole size specs, new springs and new or re-machined pintle's.
there's two major designs of injectors. SAC and VCO. stock is a VCO design. aftermarket is usually a SAC design. some builders change the pintles and reshape them to work better and run cleaner. some don't which makes the injector run a bit hotter. same with injector spray angles. some injector angles do not perform as well, smoke more, and run hotter EGTs.
so the real question is...do you really want excess smoke and higher EGTs along with more power, or do you want minimal smoke, lower EGTs and the same kind of power if not a little more power than the dirty injectors...
I ask because I can either recommend one of the two best injector builders in the country (Chris and Weston) or I can recommend something that will be smokey and hotter (DDP, RSD, Scheid)
#35
07-11-2018, 01:17 AM
Smoke switch
All you have to do is splice into your MAP sensor.
Basically the map sensor senses how much manifold pressure is in the engine and puts fuel in accordingly. The sensor line is fed by a 5 volt line and the more pressure in the manifold the more voltage is pushed down the signal line, so when you install the switch, you are pushing maximum voltage or a full pressure signal to the computer, dumping extra fuel in until the turbo gets up to speed.
For the 4-pin connector, you only need two wires. If you look at the map sensor plugged in, facing the cab, you want the two wires on the right. The colors vary from year to year, but the two on the right (as you face the cab) are what you need.
Put a line splice on both lines and just wire up to a toggle switch that has on/off capabilities and you are done. Yes, the MIL will always stay on because the sensor is getting full voltage and the truck doesnt like that.
Once the switch is turned off, it takes 3 - 4 cycles for the MIL light to go off, unless you have a programmer to clear it, but you will cause the light to come on.
You better have gauges because if used improperly, your EGT's will skyrocket.
Also, be careful where you use this. Doing it on the street and pissing people off only makes it bad for all of us.
Coal Train
Basically the map sensor senses how much manifold pressure is in the engine and puts fuel in accordingly. The sensor line is fed by a 5 volt line and the more pressure in the manifold the more voltage is pushed down the signal line, so when you install the switch, you are pushing maximum voltage or a full pressure signal to the computer, dumping extra fuel in until the turbo gets up to speed.
For the 4-pin connector, you only need two wires. If you look at the map sensor plugged in, facing the cab, you want the two wires on the right. The colors vary from year to year, but the two on the right (as you face the cab) are what you need.
Put a line splice on both lines and just wire up to a toggle switch that has on/off capabilities and you are done. Yes, the MIL will always stay on because the sensor is getting full voltage and the truck doesnt like that.
Once the switch is turned off, it takes 3 - 4 cycles for the MIL light to go off, unless you have a programmer to clear it, but you will cause the light to come on.
You better have gauges because if used improperly, your EGT's will skyrocket.
Also, be careful where you use this. Doing it on the street and pissing people off only makes it bad for all of us.
Coal Train
amd vp from thoroughbred diesel
