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High Mileage All Terrain Tire Suggestions?

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  #21  
Old 02-13-2010, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Coal Train
If you want more aggressive than the Nitto's but don't want Mud Tires, look at a set of Pro-Comp's.

The smallest Xtreme AT (which is what I run) is 305/65/17, so they're a bit bigger than what you want, but the regular AT's are available in that size.

They wear like iron and they're relatively cheap compared to some of the others.

I dont recommened the pro comp regular ATs idk about the xtreme AT but my buddy has a set of 315/75/16 regular ATs and didnt last but around 20,000 miles
 
  #22  
Old 02-13-2010, 09:29 AM
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Abnormal tire wear is almost ALWAYS due to the owner not maintaining the tires correctly or using the wrong tire in the wrong application.

Example: My buddy has a 2004 SUper Duty and put a set of Super Swampers on it. 99% of the time, the truck is driven on pavement, at or near highway speeds. Those tires didn't last a year, less than 15K miles.

1 - He had the pressure too high and it wore down the centers.
2 - The tire was a C load range being used on a 7800 lb truck.

Not putting the right tire on for the application will kill it in a hurry.

Mine....after umpteen rediculous burnouts, however many track passes and approx 30K miles, they still have half the tread left. BUT, I'm kind of a **** about my tires. I check the pressures often (front stays at 54 psi, rears at 46 unload / track and 60 psi with the trailer), they get rotated each oil change and if I see abnormal wear I fix the problem.

Owner use / abuse / improper maintenance is the main cause of tire failure / early wear.
 

Last edited by Coal Train; 02-13-2010 at 10:55 AM.
  #23  
Old 02-13-2010, 10:08 AM
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I rotated the Nittos every oil change. Checked pressures, etc. The wear was even on the tires. The only difference in wear is when the tires are on the front. They wore the outer edge a little more, as to be expected with the forces applied in steering. A little wear on the rear of the lugs from braking, which evened out when rotated to the rear from them being the driving force.

BTW, I went out and looked at the tires, they are LT's and not P's.
 
  #24  
Old 02-13-2010, 10:56 AM
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The two I usually recommend for high mileage are the ProComp Xtreme AT's and the BFG AT's.

Both of them wear like iron.

The BFG's are better in severe weather (i.e. snow / ice) dues to all the siping and the smaller, closer tread blocks, but the Xtreme AT's are better off-road and in the much. The tread blocks are bigger, spaced farther apart an the there is less siping. The Xtreme AT's are halfway between an AT and an MT.

Just make sure they are the LT tires and are the E rated ones. These trucks are too heavy for P tires. You can get away with D load range (8 ply) but they tend to squirm, especially when the truck is loaded down.
 
  #25  
Old 02-14-2010, 03:28 PM
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Personally, I won't own another set of pro comp tires.. This story is why... This is my experience only, and my experience seems to be rare, but it was enough to keep me away from pro comp tires, and 4 wheel parts.

I bought some Pro Comp XAT's (that have a 40k mile treadlife warranty) from a reputable vendor here (4 wheel customs). Shortly after I bought them, I had a tread block separate from the carcass of the tire. I might have had about 2000 miles on them when this happened. I took them to a local tire shop, had them patch the tire from the inside, and then I went to 4wp, the closest place that would supposedly "warranty" the tire. They told me that since I had the tire repaired on my own, that they wouldn't warranty it. I then asked if they would reimburse me the $20 I paid for the patch on the tire, since it was obviously a faulty tire that caused the issue. They blatantly told me no. So, I went home, with a "fixed" tire, that I paid for, that was plainly a molding issue, and not an offroading issue.

Fast forward to about 3 weeks ago. I noticed the tires were wearing really quickly, and almost down to the wear bars in the rear, and getting close in the front. At this point, I had about 20k miles on the tires, and have rotated them every 5k miles. I again, took them to 4 wheel parts in hopes that I'd be able to at least get the tires pro-rated, and make the next set cheaper, since they only really lasted half the miles that they are warranted for. Again, I was given the run around. They asked me where I lived. I told them that I lived up in the mountains, and that the truck saw winding mountain roads daily, but they should still not wear out this quickly. They have worn pretty evenly to this point. The "service advisor" point blank told me that mountain driving is not "normal driving circumstances" and that they would not warranty the tires, but would mount and balance a new set for me, for free, after I paid full retail for the tires. Needless to say, I walked out, after telling the guy that I'd never shop at a 4wp again. For anyone that lives in so cal, the Riverside 4wp is where all this happened. I am still running the tires, only because I am working on saving $$ for tires, because at $200 + per tire, they aren't cheap. Still trying to decide on my next set....
Just my experience.
Scott
 
  #26  
Old 02-16-2010, 12:49 PM
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Well, knowing the way the Pro-Comp warranty works, they gave you the wrong way to go about it.

What you have to do to get warranty from Pro-Comp is contact the dealer that you bought the tires from. The dealer then contacts Pro-Comp and they either replace the tire or issue a refund.

Whenever I have a customer that has issues with their tires, I tell them to take pictures of the tires and the problem, send me a copy of their receipt and "I" deal with Pro-Comp.

I have the new tires sent to the customer or the shop they want them installed at and "I" pay for the cost of mounting and balancing.

The problem you ran into is you bought the tires from one person and you wanted someone else to pay for repairs and warranty when it wasn't their headache to deal with in the first place.

If you buy something from someone else and then complain to me about it, I'd do the same thing....I'd tell you to pound sand and talk to the person that you bought them from.

I can't tell you how many phone calls I get from folks that bought crap off of ebay that was broke, missing parts or the wrong part for the application and then want to complain at me when I tell them how much it's gonna cost them to fix the problem or make it work.

I'd contact the selling dealer and get it taken care of. Otherwise your complaining to someone that wasn't the selling dealer....how much interest do you thing they're really go to show?
 
  #27  
Old 02-16-2010, 03:47 PM
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These are what I've run and what I found with them:

BFG A/T
they don't like gravel roads, wore out real fast, ok in snow and on ice
quiet on pavement, so so in mud

Pro Comp A/T
these too don't like gravel although lased much longer then the BFGs
crappy in snow and worse on ice!
a bit noiser on pavement, only if your listening for it

Cooper STT
wore better then previous two, good in snow not so good on ice
a tad bit nioser then the Pro Comps.

Dick Cepeck FC II (35x13.5x20)
great wear, its taking alot more miles to get gravel roads to wear them out!
great in snow, ice ... well really what tire out there for these trucks s good on ice? Unless you stud them or run chains!
mud... they don't "throw" the mud from the lugs like advertised, but the side lugs do!!!
surprisingly, they are quiet on the highway... but then I run a straight exhaust, well pretty straight running through a aero turbine muffler

Which would I buy again? Dick Cepeck FC II!! Would consider the Goodyear MR/T but a little pricey, buddy runs them and he likes em they seem to be wearing well.
 



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