Just ordered the EGR & DPF delete & the Smarty JR.
#1
Just ordered the EGR & DPF delete & the Smarty JR.
Running a '09 megacab 4x4 6.7L with 96k. Bought it new and have maintained it well. Just ordered a Sinister EGR delete and DPF delete with a Smarty JR from Rudy's. I'm real interested in hearing from you guys as to the time required to remove the parts and the level of difficulty. I'd love to have any input based on your experiences. I'm also going to do the S&B intake at the same time.
I pull a 4 horse trailer and currently get 14.5 mpg around town and 16 mpg highway empty. About 13 mpg hauling. What kind of mpg increase should I expect after these deletes?
I pull a 4 horse trailer and currently get 14.5 mpg around town and 16 mpg highway empty. About 13 mpg hauling. What kind of mpg increase should I expect after these deletes?
#2
Did you get the full exhaust system or just delete pipes? And did you get the EGR cooler delete or just the plug that goes into the cooler and the plates on the horn?
For the full exhaust (if you got it) most say the transmission crossmember needs to be lowered some to fit the downpipe, not sure if it's an auto-only deal or manual also. Pretty easy task though, although I've not one a 6.7.
The cooler delete if you got it can be a pain in the butt, there's not a ton of room to access the rear port on the manifold to get the cooler off. I was lucky and had the engine sitting on the floor when I deleted all that crap. Nothing terrible, just those rear nuts and one of the nuts toward the front of the engine are a pain to get to. I'd say a couple hours for removal of stuff (exhaust is quicker if you can cut it) and a couple for reinstall.
I'll see if I have some pics of the delete stuff
For the full exhaust (if you got it) most say the transmission crossmember needs to be lowered some to fit the downpipe, not sure if it's an auto-only deal or manual also. Pretty easy task though, although I've not one a 6.7.
The cooler delete if you got it can be a pain in the butt, there's not a ton of room to access the rear port on the manifold to get the cooler off. I was lucky and had the engine sitting on the floor when I deleted all that crap. Nothing terrible, just those rear nuts and one of the nuts toward the front of the engine are a pain to get to. I'd say a couple hours for removal of stuff (exhaust is quicker if you can cut it) and a couple for reinstall.
I'll see if I have some pics of the delete stuff
#4
#5
Thanks guys. I did order the EGR Cooler delete with the coolant re-direct hose. On the exhaust, I ordered the downdraft and DPF delete but plan to retain the stock muffler. I'm thinking about order a new throttle body as well. Any thoughts or suggestions on that?
Any suggestions on removing the difficult to reach manifold bolts?
Any suggestions on removing the difficult to reach manifold bolts?
#6
#7
Yeah the 6.7 has a throttle valve right before the intake horn. I believe it's purpose is to restrict fresh, clean air, so the dirty used air coming in via the EGR valve is used more. Something along those lines I'm guessing...
At any rate, you are completely deleting, there is NO reason to even run the throttle valve. Get rid of it. You can either get a spacer that replaces it to use with the factory (hideous) intake horn, or you can go the route I did and replace the entire horn and throttle valve with a FAR better looking/performing aftermarket intake horn.
Look at GDP for various options: http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/de...dept_id=24-006
At any rate, you are completely deleting, there is NO reason to even run the throttle valve. Get rid of it. You can either get a spacer that replaces it to use with the factory (hideous) intake horn, or you can go the route I did and replace the entire horn and throttle valve with a FAR better looking/performing aftermarket intake horn.
Look at GDP for various options: http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/de...dept_id=24-006