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1996 Dodge Ram Van 2500 - issue idling?

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Old 03-24-2017, 01:05 PM
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Default 1996 Dodge Ram Van 2500 - issue idling?

Hi all,
I'm new on here, so thanks for any help you can provide! Disclaimer: I have never owned a Dodge before. I'm 25 and I don't know a ton about cars other than how to do an oil change and the information in here.

I recently purchased a used 1996 Dodge Ram Van 2500 (V6) with 110,000 miles on it for $2000. My wife and I are planning to gut out the back seats and convert it into a surf rig/camper van setup. It's had two owners. After purchasing the vehicle, I dropped it off at my mechanic. This was on this past Saturday. It sat till Monday. Apparently it was an old battery and it died over those two days so they jumped it before preceding to do work on it. The mechanic did a full tune up on the van along with putting in a new radiator and I put in a new battery. He said everything looked really good on the car for being so old and said everything was dry underneath. No leaks.

Anyways, I picked it up on Tuesday night and drove it home about 30 miles. It ran fantastic and was through some mountains and it had a good amount of power and I was impressed. I drove it to and from work on Wednesday- no problems. Drove it to work Thursday morning - no problems. When work was over I hopped in to head home and started the car.

When I turn the ignition to "ON", normally all the dash lights come on (check engine light, oil gauge, buzzing sound). Then when it started up, the oil gauge light was red. The engine started and then quickly died. I thought that was funny, so I waited a few seconds, and then tried again. Same thing. It would run for a few seconds, but wouldn't idle. On the third try, I gave it some gas and held my foot on the pedal for a few seconds while it started up and then after it had been running for a few seconds. Then, I took my foot off, and it preceded to idle fine! I drove it around for the next hour or so trying to take it to a few different local mechanics, but none of them were opened, so I've got an appointment to bring it in on Monday.

I was able to take it to O'Reilly's and have them do the electrical test on the battery, alternator and the starter. Every test went fine, except the battery test took 2-3 tries. I explained the problem I had seen and they said it definitely wasn't the battery (brand new), the starter or the alternator. That made me feel much more at ease. They said that the metal clamps that get screwed onto the battery terminals looked very old, so that might be the issue, but I thought I would see if anyone else has had a similar problem. I got up this morning and drove into work with it and it started up first try and ran like a champ. It will be parked today for 8+ hours today, so I guess we'll see if I can get home.

If anyone has thoughts on this, I would really appreciate it. I took a video of the normal starting of the engine this morning and hopefully will post today. I will try to take a video of the issue if it happens again, which I hope it doesn't. I mainly just want to try and fix this problem before my wife and I do all this work to convert it so we can use it for trips.

Thank you,
Zach
 
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Old 03-24-2017, 10:44 PM
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I'm no great expert at twice your age plus some either Zach, but it's a great idea to clean up those battery terminal ends real good for starters. Loose, corroded, bad connections can cause weird things to happen, check the wires too for corrosion too.

If taking it to a shop then request them to read the diagnostic codes and if there are any, write em down so you know what the problem may be and can ask for help...

only thing I've experienced similar to your (start and idle a few seconds then shut down) is the IAC valve went bad, it would have those same symptoms intermittently for a while then began to do it every time. It's located on the rear side of the throttle body and basically controls air supply for engine idle.
It could be gunked up and/or failing but better to have a look rather than guess. This may or may not throw a code but main thing is see if there are any codes if possible.

also just a thought, with the age and so few miles on the rig, it might be good to run some fuel system cleaner next fill up.
 
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Old 03-26-2017, 09:22 AM
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X2 on cleaning the battery terminals. Take out the iac and clean out the throttle body of all carbon build up. If you still are having problems replace the iac. Something you may want to think about is replacing the plenum gasket. It's not as problematic with the V6's but would be wise to replace it.

http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/p...p?partid=27091
 
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Old 03-26-2017, 07:29 PM
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Thank you for your response! I cleaned up the battery terminals and checked the battery cables as well for any loose connection. Everything looked really good though. I actually had a code scanner, so I ran it, but no codes came up. I wonder, if I tried cold starting it and used the code scanner on that.

Seems like the trend is the IAC valve that you and Moparite are suggesting. I don't know if I have the capability of doing that myself, but I would love to try. Unless you both think it's something above a beginners ability?

It just worries me that this problem is so intermittent and inconsistent. Makes me nervous to drive it anywhere really...

I will definitely run some fuel system cleaner when I fill up the tank next. Maybe that would help.

This morning it had such a hard time starting and staying running, but then this afternoon, it started up first try and ran like a champ. That's the weird thing to me. Once it is running and idling, it runs fantastic.

Thank you so much for your assistance! I am so appreciative.
 
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Old 03-26-2017, 07:35 PM
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And regarding the Moparite's post and how you suggested taking out the IAC and cleaning the throttle body? Is replacing the IAC difficult? I honestly don't even know where to begin. Is the plenum gasket something that would help this situation if the IAC doesn't work?

Just curious. Is this super common on Dodge's? I am assuming this car is fuel injected but I honestly don't know. If the IAC valve doesn't work, is this something that will always be an issue? Is there hope?
 
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Old 03-26-2017, 10:23 PM
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Zach, checking and cleaning or changing the IAC valve is easy... one electric plug and 2 torx screws to unfasten and it's off. There's DIYs here and on youtube to help get you familiar, there's not much for vans but the 2nd gen truck videos will be same only easier for us in vans.
Pull the engine cover (dog house) off and there is your engine access, take off the air filter and housing and it's mounted on the rear of the throttle body (facing you in our vans).

If you decide to pull the trigger and just replace it but not clean the throttle body the new iac should have instructions along with it, but just make sure you clean out the carbon and soot in the orifice for the IAC real good (spray carb/throttlebody cleaner and wipe with lint free cloth) q-tips help in the cracks and corners as well. Keep the old one and clean it while out with the carb cleaner, swabs and old tooth brush for a spare or try it out cleaned... making sure not to turn or push hard on in the pintle.

*disconnect the neg battery side always before disconnecting any electric sensors, reconnect after installed


Not to answer for Moparite, he's a smarter guy than me for sure and hopefully will reply, til then, the plenum job is quite a bit more in depth but not impossible, once educated and all set for it. The thread just below this one "Turns over but won't run" has a link and instruction on how to test for vacuum leak that would indicate whether or not the plenum/gasket is leaking.

Do some searching and reading and ask when you need, someone usually will help... good luck to you

Oh! meant to mention that your best bet is finding genuine mopar parts, meaning either the dealership or ebay/amazon etc. for your specific sensors and parts like that. Aftermarket stuff can be unreliable, hit and miss
 

Last edited by JFloors; 03-26-2017 at 10:33 PM.
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Old 03-27-2017, 01:09 AM
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Hi JFloors! Do you think this is easy enough to do myself without taking to a mechanic? You make it sound like it's quite doable, which gives me hope (except for maybe the whole plenum job bit)!

I've been looking on youtube for some more specific videos on this process, but do you have any specific ones that you would recommend and mind sharing links too?

I've very hopeful this all works. I'm becoming worried that this is a very serious problem, although it sounds like it is common with Dodge vehicles... which I'm definitely new too.

Thank you so much for your help!! I'll also be extra sure to be careful with the aftermarket parts. Don't want to get something that is unreliable.

In your experience, would you say I shouldn't be stressing about this issue?

Thanks
Zach
 
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Old 03-27-2017, 03:31 AM
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Hi Zach, (that's my youngest son's name btw) I wouldn't say stress but know that you should take care of it pretty soon... also if this is indeed the cause of your stalling and idle problem, kinda sounds like it though.
I dealt with mine daily for a couple months daily driving before I finally was tired of it and took 20 minutes to change it out.
I'd already cleaned the throttle body a few K ago as well as the iac, but the iac lived a few longer then finally failed completely. I went ahead with an aftermarket one (napa) because it's my work rig.

yes it's something you can do, heck, I did it and cleaned the throttle body too just from some reading and viewing a couple videos for moral support. There's not a bunch of tools required, just some time and confidence and a beer to celebrate when accomplished

I didn't really have a favorite video but here's one done on a 92 3.9 dakota that takes you through the process without taking the throttle body off. Remember that he's working from under the hood of the truck, where you will be inside already at the rear side and looking straight at the iac


This next one one is on a 5.9 engine but pretty much the same deal but he takes the throttle body off and explains things simply. I like this guys videos, knowledge and info, he's got other good DIY videos too


didn't mean to say imply you have to go mopar parts, if necessary get one local at napa or whereever, but saying the consensus is that the genuine mopar parts have better reviews as you will read about over time. It's pretty much same on other forums like chevy or ford, each tends to like there own factory oem parts.
 

Last edited by JFloors; 03-27-2017 at 03:33 AM. Reason: gave a wrong link
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Old 03-27-2017, 11:52 AM
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Hi JFloors! I can't thank you enough for your thoroughness and willingness to help out. I will definitely take a look at these videos when I get off work today! It sounds like you have had a ton of experience working with this type of thing.

As far as parts go, I'll make sure I get a genuine mopar part. I want this car to run well for a long time and I want to do my best to make sure any changes I make are the best quality parts. The biggest thing is, my wife and I want to use this as an occasional driver during the week, but it's primary use will be the weekend trips here and there. Most likely less than 5-7 hr drive one way. I want this car to be something that I can truly rely on. Everything else on it looks fantastic, so hopefully I can get this starting issue to work and then she'll be good to go.

Again, I can't thank you enough for your help!

Zach
 
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Old 04-19-2017, 11:14 AM
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Default Starting issue

Hi All,
I posted on here a few weeks ago and you guys successfully helped me determine that the IAC valve needed to be replaced on my dodge. I had it replaced, but now my dodge is not starting at all.

Please help! Attached is a video of me trying to start it this morning. Battery is brand new btw. I put it in last month!
 
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