Good day, everybody! I'm in need of advice on what to do next from people who have been through where I am now. I am returning a 1980 Champion TranStar to life after 15 years of sitting. I bought it in (technically) running condition, but not roadworthy. I have extensive experience in Volkswagen Beetle restoration, 25+ years, this is my first American automobile. I should have just bought a Sherman Tank.

I'm on Day 4 of rebuilding the Thermoquad that when I started this would idle and run, had to be careful about acceleration or it would bog down with a huge sucking sound, but would not start without dumping a squirt of gasoline in the throat. Now I'm in the throes of psychological breakdown, partly from 4 days of inhaling noxious fumes and the situation getting worse and worse.

Day 2, cleaned thoroughly, new rebuild kit, got all the linkages figured out, all 10 main screws tight as Hell, gaskets coated in WD-40, manifold bolts tight as Hell, vacuum lines in decent shape, all hooked up, lost the dashpot adjustment screw but that was the only tragedy of the day. After minimal idle screw adjustment it started on its own for the first time! Problem was it still made that huge sucking sound if the accelerator was advanced too quickly. But when RPMs were in the operating range the engine was SUPER responsive, it sounded like a Formula 1 race engine.

I noticed the engine would behave beautifully if the choke plate was closed a little further than it was being directed to. But since my girlfriend can't always ride around with her pinkie on the plate in the passenger seat, I decided to take it off and really concentrate on the adjustment procedure.

Day 3: disassembly, noticed the right side glued-on well passage in the main body came dislodged and was sunk in a little pit of disgusting old gas. Used SteelStik carefully to rebind the edges and make it liquid-tight. I'm confident that it is not blocked and that it is bound well. On reassembly, I spent 5 hours going CAREFULLY through the adjustment procedures in the rebuild kit.

Main anomoly I found was the floats were set to about 1 3/4" from the gasket surface to top of float when the instructions called for 1 1/16", huge difference. I did it, though. Cracked a float in the process of bending the arm, a minor chip came off the top that I again rebound with a thin layer of SteelStik epoxy putty taking care to make sure it reached the outer edges so fuel couldn't seep into that foamy interior. Also, used as little as possible so as to not upset the weight of the float too much. I know I need a new one.

All plates and linkages measure to specifications.

Got it on last night and the engine ran a little bit, but would immediately die under load. I only need to move the Van 4 feet off the sidewalk and I could take a break. Ended up losing a foot and a half trying to move.

Day 4, today. Charged the battery over night, got out to the 440 and double checked vacuum lines, choke rod, everything. While cranking it will occasionally pull down the metering rod T-bar assembly and try but never catches. Happened very regularly like GRR-grr-grr-grr-GRR-grr-grr-grr-GRR-grr-grr-grr-GRR, you get it.

Then I noticed the Step-up adjustment screw just screwed and screwed and never lifted up the assembly this time around. That's when my mind broke in half and wanted to throw the Thermoquad at the 440. I'm over it. I learned enough about it to not want to work on it another second.

If I had $400, I'd just waltz down to the nearest carb shop and say "Rescue Me!" but I don't for at least a few more days while I wait on a paycheck.

What is the next best course of action for me:
1) buy a $100 used carb that may need another rebuild off Craigslist
2) buy a $400 Edelbrock or Holley new, possibly needing $400 worth of aditional manifold, gaskets, choke adapters, etc.
3) take this Thermoquad to be serviced apart from the vehicle, what do mechanics charge these days to service carburetors? Is the Thermoquad something not everyone will touch?
4) have the entire vehicle towed somewhere
Let's ignore the obvious fifth answer of SELL THE DAMNED THING, for now.

Thank you for your opinions, remember, in this situation, money IS an object. My time and persistance are far more affordable at the moment.

 

But, really, I haven't interacted with a mechanic in over 20 years, I need advice to make the next move. What does a carb job entail when I'm not doing everything myself?
Do they need my vehicle?
Is it cheaper to buy a new carb?
What alternative to my Thermoquad would you recommend for a 440-3 engine RV?
Will I need a new manifold?

 

A little over twenty years ago I owned a Carter 2BBL and they were no longer in business. So I in desperation phoned Holley who stated that Holly took over Carter and could still supply me with the proper metering rods and jets for my 2 BBL Carter. Speak with a rep at Holley. HTH.

The carb and manifold should be a "matched set" - after having read years of HOT ROD MAGAZINE. Trust me on this one. The final choices will probably be either Holley or Eldebrock (a bit more user-friendly). And you'll need to know how many cubic feet per minute your motor breathes which the vendors would likely know.

Once installed and running, you might need to do additional tuning, rejetting, readjusting the linkage yada yada yada.

 

OK, yes, thank you for the tip on metering rods from Holley. And the confirmation about the manifold. I'm assuming for fluid dynamics reasons.

 

For proper respiration and flow, and therefore performance, yes. The original manifold may well suffice with the replacement carb.

 

Boy, upon examination of my previous posts, I look like a petulant brat. I apologize for that, I really felt like it was time for this poor rotten carburetor to be laid to rest after one final push and throaty bellow goodbye.

I've decided to wait a couple of days to order a new, already adjusted TQ from Guaranteed Carburetors. The price is just too good to equate to any further time investigating this particular one. I think the problems come down to the bowl and floats being rotten and they'll be able to resurrect this one in a professional recycling rebuild sitch. Man, I have just never had a carburetor defeat me, admittedly the 8-or-so Solexes I've intimately known over the years were 1/4 the machine the ThermoQuad turned out to be, I enjoyed figuring out the linkages and watching the dialed-in machine in action.

 

T quads have to many moving parts and wear. Some still like them but in my opinion a holley is the best choice. You can rebuild one in less that an hour throw it on and it will run with minimal adjusting. Let us know how the new tq acts.

 

Solex vs TQ!!!!!!! An unfair comparison. And you didn't come across as a petulant brat. Me, I only know Carter 2BBL's and also VW Solex's for the upright motor. So let us all know if the new unit was a simple bolt-on.

 

My guess is that Holley has been way more popular over the decades and therefore there's lot's more information and input available especially to the newbee. 8))

 

Holley actually designed their carbs to be relatively easy to set up, and adjust.

I would bet money that you would have a very hard time finding anyone to rebuild a carb for you these days. Most techs would just look at you like you had grown a second head, "Whats a 'thermoquad'?????"

I hate solex carbs. The one on my 75 Rabbit SUCKED. I think it was originally designed as an ashtray, and was adapted for use as a carb..... The one on my tractor isn't any better. (and it's a lowly 1 barrel.) The mechanical fuel injection they put on those motors a year or so later was FAR superior.

Replacing your old carb, that has been sitting around for a decade or more, is really a good idea...... It is really difficult to get all the crap out of the passages and jets, when it has had so much time to essentially turn into concrete.