Water in Oil
#11
You should be able to fix the engine with a gasket set if it hasn't been leaking coolant for a long time. Look at the gaskets and mating surfaces very carefully as you may be able to see where the leak was taking place. Hopefully you don't find a cracked cylinder head. Having warped heads isn't too bad, you can get them machined flat.
Photos and details on mileage would be helpful.
Changing the gaskets with the engine in the van will save you the trouble of dismantling the Air Conditioning system to remove the engine.
Photos and details on mileage would be helpful.
Changing the gaskets with the engine in the van will save you the trouble of dismantling the Air Conditioning system to remove the engine.
#12
Hello everybody
After I installed my overhauled gear, the vehicle was happy with a test drive. The test drive was interrupted after several kilometers, as engine noise has developed. In the workshop arrived after the error searched, but first found nothing except the oil pressure was lousy. The next day water looked up and there was something missing.Looked up oil and there I found a milky soup before although 500 km oil change has been made.Ergo it is water in the oil and that has to come from somewhere. The first ideas were cylinder head gasket or the gasket from the intake manifold.Since an acquaintance cared for me during the entire repair / fault analysis, the idea came up at times to remove the oil sump to see what was still there, because the draining of the oil took almost 15 minutes.Not so easy to remove the oil pan when the engine is still installed, but you build the exhaust and the oil pump off / off then it works.
As you can see from the pictures there are now 2 problems:
1. The oil pumps which was definitely closed with sealant! This comes when you use pound wise sealant for caulking!!!
2. After a long search, we found the water inflow. The water comes out of the control housing ergo has the water cycle thus direct connection to the oil pan which is not optimal.
3. After the oil pump was disassembled you could already see the disaster with grooves and tracks - which suggests what hidden consequential damage.All this is of course very annoying now and it has also been much discussed which ways you should take now.
1. Install used engine?
------ Advantage: available at short notice at a cost of 500 to 1000 euros
------ Disadvantage: the offered engines are usually already expanded and therefore you do not know what you get
2. Remove the engine and overhaul it yourself / with technical / advice aids
------ Advantage: engine is overhauled here, I know what I have, I can choose the quality of the parts myself, technical changes can be done on the spot, I learn something again
------ Disadvantage: location of the vehicle and residence of the driver are first and fore 900 km apart, technical assistance is needed, repair takes a little longer
I have now decided to step 2, because due to the transmission which is already obsolete I now also want to have a great engine. In addition, the body - as far as 6 eyes have seen - also in very good condition. Sure, here and there bits rust but first nothing wild. The rear axle, which is provided with a friction lock, is all ok and looking the same made an oil change and installed a spacer ring with oil drain plug.
My question to you too:How about a power increase of the engine - there has someone from you information / tips / suggestions
In 2 weeks I will extend the engine and then I will provide you with more pictures.
In anticipation of your suggestions see you soon Peter
After I installed my overhauled gear, the vehicle was happy with a test drive. The test drive was interrupted after several kilometers, as engine noise has developed. In the workshop arrived after the error searched, but first found nothing except the oil pressure was lousy. The next day water looked up and there was something missing.Looked up oil and there I found a milky soup before although 500 km oil change has been made.Ergo it is water in the oil and that has to come from somewhere. The first ideas were cylinder head gasket or the gasket from the intake manifold.Since an acquaintance cared for me during the entire repair / fault analysis, the idea came up at times to remove the oil sump to see what was still there, because the draining of the oil took almost 15 minutes.Not so easy to remove the oil pan when the engine is still installed, but you build the exhaust and the oil pump off / off then it works.
As you can see from the pictures there are now 2 problems:
1. The oil pumps which was definitely closed with sealant! This comes when you use pound wise sealant for caulking!!!
2. After a long search, we found the water inflow. The water comes out of the control housing ergo has the water cycle thus direct connection to the oil pan which is not optimal.
3. After the oil pump was disassembled you could already see the disaster with grooves and tracks - which suggests what hidden consequential damage.All this is of course very annoying now and it has also been much discussed which ways you should take now.
1. Install used engine?
------ Advantage: available at short notice at a cost of 500 to 1000 euros
------ Disadvantage: the offered engines are usually already expanded and therefore you do not know what you get
2. Remove the engine and overhaul it yourself / with technical / advice aids
------ Advantage: engine is overhauled here, I know what I have, I can choose the quality of the parts myself, technical changes can be done on the spot, I learn something again
------ Disadvantage: location of the vehicle and residence of the driver are first and fore 900 km apart, technical assistance is needed, repair takes a little longer
I have now decided to step 2, because due to the transmission which is already obsolete I now also want to have a great engine. In addition, the body - as far as 6 eyes have seen - also in very good condition. Sure, here and there bits rust but first nothing wild. The rear axle, which is provided with a friction lock, is all ok and looking the same made an oil change and installed a spacer ring with oil drain plug.
My question to you too:How about a power increase of the engine - there has someone from you information / tips / suggestions
In 2 weeks I will extend the engine and then I will provide you with more pictures.
In anticipation of your suggestions see you soon Peter
Last edited by offroader89; 10-08-2018 at 02:18 PM.
#13
Since your van is a 2001, there are several options available. Hopefully...... You could bump compression a bit, maybe a better cam, but, doing so would require tuning the pcm to play nice with the non-stock parts. Hemifever, or Flyin' Ryan should be able to help you out with that.
It's possible to get a 'slightly' better cam, that won't require custom tuning, but, you don't get quite the power bump either.
Your engine is going to need to be torn down completely, and thoroughly cleaned. The damage to the pump rotors tells me that it circulated debris throughout the engine, and you need to get it ALL out, or you are going to be right back in the same position. Replace the lifters. It simply isn't worth the effort to try and clean them out. Chances are good the cam is going to be trashed in any event......
Tear it down, see what's good, and what isn't. Given that you spun a bearing, you are going to want to have the block checked out at a machine shop, to see what additional work it needs.
You are going to spend a fair bit of money rebuilding it..... have you considered just picking up a NEW long block? It might end up being cheaper than rebuilding......
It's possible to get a 'slightly' better cam, that won't require custom tuning, but, you don't get quite the power bump either.
Your engine is going to need to be torn down completely, and thoroughly cleaned. The damage to the pump rotors tells me that it circulated debris throughout the engine, and you need to get it ALL out, or you are going to be right back in the same position. Replace the lifters. It simply isn't worth the effort to try and clean them out. Chances are good the cam is going to be trashed in any event......
Tear it down, see what's good, and what isn't. Given that you spun a bearing, you are going to want to have the block checked out at a machine shop, to see what additional work it needs.
You are going to spend a fair bit of money rebuilding it..... have you considered just picking up a NEW long block? It might end up being cheaper than rebuilding......