Thanks Alloro, been looking online. they've changed the design now days. I guess I would need to adapt the connectors.

Finally got the van started this evening. MOMENT OF TRUTH. (insert sound of a deflating trumpet...) Since this is a van, it has the timing extender bracket that is below the power steering unit. You have to crawl under the van with the timing light. You can not see the timing marks in the timing cover, too much stuff in the way. I think this balancer has compensated for the offset in timing marks, not sure. (multiple timing marks?)
WELL, the timing marks when pointing at the timing extender (and I think looking for the marks designed for that extender) are nowhere to be found. I have a timing light where you can dial in the degrees. If I go backwards from 0 one step, that is 90 degrees. the marks show up at the 90 degree setting. SO either my setup is 90 degrees out, or what marks I'm looking at are 90 degrees out.

I took the clamp off of Wire 1 and put it on Wire 8 and this replicated a basic ball park of where the tining should be referencing the marks on the balancer ad the lower VAN style timing marker – granted they are 30 degrees from TDC.

What to do next? And what is the degree offset from TDC for standard gorocery-getting?

Thanks again guys! Sorry for the long-winded post!!!

 

And in addition, when running this for first time I noticed a water leak.

It seemed to have gone away after a few starts Buuuuut, not cool.

Going to double check tomorrow when engine is cold. Maybe it closes up when engine warms up, not sure.

Ether weeping from that bolt in intake of coming from water neck (I tried like crazy to get that thermostat to seat right!)

Water leak

Engine

 

You have to verify the timing. Remove spark plug #1 and rotate the engine manually until you feel compression being forced out of the spark plug hole and stop. Next slowly turn the engine until the timing mark lines up with the 0 degree or TDC mark. Finally pop off the distributor cap and verify the rotor is pointing at the #1 tower. If it is then your timing should be good, any other results and the timing is not correct. Keep in mind that some engines have 2 timing marks on the damper, one to check with a timing light, and one for dealer equipment to use.

 

Thanks again, I did my homework this AM. Here is what I found
See 5 photos below.
Makes for great entertainment!

This the timing mark on TDC. I managed to fish an iPhone up in there and get a pic.


This is the matching distributor position for TDC, see mark on cap, #1.


This is the corresponding mark (looking UP into engine) on the balancer and position to lower timing bracket on my B150 van when the TDC marks are hidden behind Power Steering pump.
This mark precedes factory numbered timing marks on balancer by 90 degrees. Maybe I use this mark?


This is the approx position of when you start to feel the "pffff" of compression coming into #1.
it is (I think) 180 degrees from TDC mark.


And just for verification, here is the distributor position as it is coming into the compression stroke.
(red line marked on balancer)


Seems like maybe this lower off-set bracket is to be used with the timing marker that precedes the factory number stamped marks at TDC. (1/4 turn off)

This might be why putting the strobe on #8 (second to fire in the lineup) will bring the factory timing marks "down" to the 1/4 turn position of the bolt on timing markers, which are essentially 1/4 turn (90 degrees) off of the TDC marks in timing cover.
Sound right?

To do the actual timing on this van set up I need to disconnect the PCV valve hose, disconnect the EGR valve and plug at carb (mine is plugged anyway with that dang BB in the hose),
I do not see a vacuum advance on the distributor. Is there anything else I need to disconnect?
Then do I set the timing advance at a certain rpm? like 10 degrees advance at 1500 rpm? What's the trick? I'm coming from a Ford background btw :-)
Thanks guys! Happy Sunday!

 

It idles best with timing set to 13* BTDC, (based on the timing mark I pointed out above)
Can’t really take it any lower before it starts to sputter and drop the idle way down.

HOWEVER after all of this,
It failed the Block Test again. Fluid turned green.

Smokes out tail pipe white.
Smells noxious
Bubbles out radiator
Sometimes misses.
I can't think of any other reason why there would be emissions in the cooling system, unless it is trapped contaminated air escaping for the first time.

There is no water in oil pan
This block must be cracked. Or it needed to be decked.

Parts and service list:
New redone heads and Felpro head gasket set
hot tanked intake
New water pump
New double roller timing chain & crank / balancer seal
New water temp sensor
New thermostat
4 new belts

2 weeks on my back in mud and grease and gasoline.
Back to square 1

 

Oh man, that sucks........

 

Any possibility you could have an issue with the intake manifold or intake gaskets? Im just asking.

 

Drove ol' Vanny to my very seasoned mechanic across the road. He was helping me via phone through the whole process. On the way there (with shroud off) I set distributor timing by feel and got it to idle and stop the pinging. I think I have I dialed in pretty well by ear. (drives great!) He was impressed by how good it sounded! He made a few carb adjustments for idle. He mentioned I need a new idle stop solenoid on carb. He stated cooling system always has excessive crap in the coolant after head rebuilds and most of the time throw false positives with the Block Testers. Also said maybe the CAT has excessive build up due to previous issue and is burning off stuff. I'm going to drive around for a few weeks and see what happens. Yes maybe an intake gasket slipped. Maybe an intake bolt weeping? Engine sounds normal :-). The head rebuilder guy (old school) used a type of stem seal that has a steel collar the clamps to the casting. He said the stock FelPro ones slip and fly up and down with the valve :-0. Thinking maybe this is a stem seal issue? Also he installed 3 valve guides.
Maybe this is just crazy condensation upon start-up. The fog goes away after a while. Maybe this will all "go away" after driving her for a while......

I have a new radiator and ordered a good ACdelco PCV valve and air temp sensor and new oil pressure sensor and gauge coming, so will follow through with those little parts and see where we are at next week.

Thanks to all of you!

 

I drained the coolant (water) again today. put in fresh water. Got the van started and it seemed to run fine. Rich but fine. A few days prior tried to fit a new oxygen sensor but the one I received was advertised as fitting a B150 but it does not >grr. waiting till Friday for new one.

Installed a new Air Temp Sensor. Sort of jerry rigged for now because the wire harness does not fit the newer center post style Air Temp gauges now.
Not sure which wire goes where, or if it matters.

Installed a T fitting with a new oil pressure sending unit (to run the stock dummy gauge and a new AutoMeter electrical under dash mounted gauge. I tapped into the gauges fuse to run it. Started up, unit pegs at 80psi! sort of bouncing at 80. Not red dummy switch light BTW. ran a few minutes til warm, backed it out of the driveway (which faces down hill) minute I got to the street it soared to the overheating mark on original heat gauge. I just stopped the van in the middle of the street. Got out, checked water. Fine. Managed to get it back in driveway. WTF!

Feeling cursed. Does this sound like a Oil pump suddenly giving out? Bad or incompatible Water temp sensor (replaced last week). Some sort of electrical shenanigans based on new oil pressure and mass airflow/air temp switch?

Overheating came "right out of the blue". Did NOT expect that.


Heres the Air Temp Sensor. Which wire goes where? Maybe the old one is OK?

Here's the New Oil Pressure gauge reading 80psi

 

Oil pressure is a bit high, but, I really don't think that's your problem. I WOULD be tempted to throw a different brand temp sensor in though. Pick up one of the IR temp guns as well. See if what the gauge tells you bears any resemblance to what actual temp is at the thermostat.