So was changing my t-stat today and I think there is a problem with the bolt hole. Not sure what happened. I developed a leak around where the bolt hole (bolt didn’t look seated all the way down) is and decided to replace the t-stat, housing and gasket. Issue is that the bolt won’t go past certain point. It just spins and spins.

Does this mean the bolt hole is stripped or damaged? If so, what can I do? Will tapping it with a similar size help or will I have to go larger?

Also does anyone know the size of the bolts? I just want to make sure I have the right size.

TIA

Edit: could I use washers on the bolt to tighten the housing down? Would that affect torque specs?

 

I *think* they are 3/8ths-16, but, taking the other bolt to a hardware store to verify would be a good idea.

Can't use a smaller tap, as there is nothing for it to cut threads into. I thought the thermostat bolt holes went all the way into the water jacket on the manifold though...... Do they?

Helicoil would work. Drill it, tap it, screw in the heli-coil, thread in the bolt. I would make REAL Sure of the depth of your hole, and the length of the bolt though. Or, replace the manifold......

 

I don’t know if the bolt holes go all the way into the water jacket. If it does how does this affect a repair?

The helicoil idea is a good one. I just don’t know if I can drill anything since there is no room in there. Even tapping might be an issue.

why would I need to replace the manifold? I’m not following you there?

i’m going to see if using the same size bolt and some washers will work. Like I said the bolt goes down to a certain point and then just spins. I am concerned that the strength/integrity of the hole is compromised and the bolt may ”pop” out again, but we’ll see.

if that doesn’t work, then I’ll tap/helicoil the hole if I can find the right size helicoil nearby.

 

Poke a little screwdriver, or something, down into the hole, see if it does bottom out.

The bolt going so far, and then just spinning, suggests that the threads are trashed, and just putting some washers on the bolt probably won't help. If that's the case, then you either repair that hole, in whatever manner you choose, or, replace the entire intake. (which gets you a new hole. )

 

Well the bolts turned out to be 5/16. I ordered a repair kit and a 90 degree angle drill attachment so I can repair it.

Honestly a new intake sounds like a good idea. Been mulling over an engine swap really, but we’ll see.

Thx again

did the washer thing btw but it still leaks, but is driveable

 

So I couldn’t repair the hole so far. Was even planning on going to a mechanic but the car overheats too quickly and I have to pull over and wait for it to cool down.

if it throw some copper wires down there and then add some loctite to get me some “bite” would that work? Would heat be an issue?

I also saw a weird video where a guy split the bolt down the middle and screwed it in, could that possible work?

I just need it to leak less until I can get this sorted out. Maybe a couple of weeks. I have a bad feeling the mechanic will say I need a new manifold since the space is so tight and difficult to get any tools like a drill or tap down there.

Thx

 

Playin' with fire there. Overheat your engine and this repair is going to get a LOT more expensive. Some of your 'fixes' are likely to do more harm than good. Bite the bullet, fix it once, fix it right, don't worry about it again. If that means replacing the manifold, do what ya gotta do.

 

You need to remove everything in the way then fix it. I don't see how you are going to keep an angle drill "straight" to drill it out. Standard drill from the top and you will have mo problems. If you take the t-stat housing off you can feel the bottom of where the hole is. I believe you have maybe 1/4 of material there. You could drill down through it then tap it but you will have seal the threads from it leaking. Either way you need to remove everything to get to it. At least the alternator and a long drill bit. You can use a square socket to drive the tap with a extension. Can you tell i did these kinds or repairs before?

 

Youre absolutely right. Issue is $$$ I need time to get the money together. That’s why I’m trying to see if I can tighten it up a bit so it doesn’t leak so bad.

I would love to replace the manifold tomorrow, but maybe hafta work and I hafta save up some $$$.

Do you think the copper wiring might hold up for a bit? Right now thread locker is just slightly better than before. I know loctite makes a thread repair thing like jb weld, but I may hafta order it and it may take a few days anyway.

 

Yes, you are right, but I did pull everything and there is not enough space for much of anything. The right angle adapter turned out to be for a driver and not a drill so I couldn’t use it. I tried a tap on a socket but the socket broke. The t-handle ratchet that comes with the tap n die kit is too big. There was also a ratcheting tool that I Jimmied to try to drive the tap, but it feels to flimsy and I think it’s going to break.

Unless a mechanic has some specialty pneumatic tool that can fit in there and drill or drive the tap, I don’t see how they can repair the threads.

Anyway, thanks, I’m going to see what they say tomorrow or Saturday. I was telling heyyou that I may try the loctite thread repair and see if it holds for a bit.