I recently acquired a 96 b2500 that is low miles and rust free. It's not a beauty, but I really like it. After buying it I found there was a parasitic draw. Checking things out I found even more problems as there was rodent damage in the wiring under the dash. Got what I found fixed, but I'm thinking there may be more as the dome lights don't work. One of the wires that I fixed was the wire from the drivers door switch.
The parasitic draw I narrowed down to the ignition switch. Also after fixing the wire from the door switch the key in buzzer would sound every time the door was open whether the key was in or not. I got a new switch and everything seemed good. Went to get it inspected and when I opened the door the buzzer was going off. I thought Oh well I'll live with it or disable it. Thinking about it later and figured it was doing the same thing as the original switch so I checked and the draw was back. I thought there might be something with the tumbler that was causing the damage, but I don't see anything obvious to me.. I've r@r'd the switch again and had it working ok. Drove it today and it was fine when I parked it, and moved it, but then the buzzer was going off with the door open. Should I buy another new switch along with a new tumbler or see if a locksmith has any ideas? Does any of this sound familiar to anyone?
I haven't checked for a draw again, but I am fairly confident that it's back. When it stops raining I'm going to check.

 

Here ya go.

 

Thanks, I appreciate it. Kind of afraid to try and edit the title again.

 

There ya go.

You still have some wiring issues. You should be able to find diagrams for your Van here. Starting testing circuits one at a time, till you find which one the draw is on.

 

The only draw I have is the ignition switch. The radio was hot all the time which led me to the switch. There was continuity between the power in and the power out that fed the circuit the radio was on. I wanted to take the cover off the switch, but the ground strap runs up from a mounting bolt hole over the cover and then inside the switch. You would have to pull the ground strap out in order to pull the cover off and I would think it would be attached inside.

 

Have a new switch already?

The key buzzer has a sensor in the lock cylinder for that. It's also possible that some of your wiring still isn't quite right.

I would look at the wiring diagrams, see what points on the ignition switch should be hot with the key off, and which shouldn't.... Of those that shouldn't, need to find out WHERE they are getting power from. Possibly back feeding from some other circuit.

 

As I stated I put a new switch in and everything was fine for a few cycles and then when I drove it it was right back to the way the old one was. There is a tab that pops out of the lock cylinder when the key is inserted and it obviously makes contact to operate the buzzer. There is a little bar that it pushes against and that fell out of my original switch.
The problem is internal to the switch. That's why I had continuity between the power in and the lug sending power out right next to the power in lug. And that is with the ignition switch out and not wires connected. It seems connected to that bar that activates the buzzer. I feel like some thing gets damaged during the install of the lock cylinder. Why it takes a drive somewhere for it to act up has got me.

 

Have you had a look at the lock cylinder itself??

 

There is nothing obvious about the lock cylinder. The only thing I notice is the little spring at the bottom of the switch is tilted to the side on both switches. Didn't pay attention to it, but I would think it should be straight up.

 

No idea on that..... This is one of those I would have to see what was going on....