I'm concerned about driving this car again
 

the engine was stopped in the mountains.. my god! .
(I am looking for the problem)
=
MY QUESTION:
Is there any relation between the crankshaft sensor (code 11)
and the RPM panel indicator?
real idle rpm: 700
tachometer: 1,300
(sorry for my bad english)
Thanks

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-s...car-again.html

Adding more information to your PRIOR post may be of more help than starting a second thread for obviously the same issue. It sounds like you have some major electrical issues, possibly shorted out or corroded wires. Nothing you've added is enough to really point to a specific spot. Are there any engine codes? Any other unusual symptoms leading up to the stalling out? Any guages/lights working or not working prior to failure?

Mr Ratsttam
of course,
(I still haven't found what I'm looking for)
-
but now I'm learning many things.
-
For example,
the code that appears, is '11' (eleven)
(crankshaft sensor)
this may explain all.
-
and the panel tachometer may indicate injectors non synchronous
(the manual say)
=
but i'm need to learn
how to make when the motor die
and you are driving in high speed..
without brakes and steering...
-
'D' to '3', may fix the motor? for no miss the control?,
(I need to test it)
=
sorry, my english is so short
than is no easy talk to you
(I speak spanish and portuguese)
Thank you

ANY faulty sensor will wreak havoc on these cars (and most other electronically controlled cars for that matter).
The engine running rough (either high or low rpm) can be the result of a lot of variables. Different sensors, or physical problems such as bad plugs, wires, or coil packs.
If moving it from D to 3 helps, than you're just putting a band-aid over the problem. Sometimes going to a lower gear will allow the engine to run "smoother" at a higher rpm than rougher at a lower rpm if it's not firing right.
Also the strats have power assisted brakes and steering. If you lose engine power, you can still stop the car and steer. It just becomes extremely difficult. This is NORMAL with any modern car with power steering or brake systems.

Change that crank sensor out and get back with us with any other codes that may come up after that.

I had a guy replace my timing belt on my 99 2.4L and it sounds like its hitting against the plastic cover around the belt. It will rattle bad at times, but after I got my intake it smoothed out a lot. Sometimes it will still rattle when revving hard or just starting the engine.

The only symptoms I had was coming to a stop sometimes would have the RPMs 'STUCK' at 1,500 and then when I finally got near 0 it would come back to the idle RPM of 750. Any idea what could cause that?

Mr Ratsttam
I remove the crankshaft sensor, measured and cleaned.
I installed the sensor again and everything is the same (bad).
now only remains to change it, (I will find and buy)
--
Another interesting thing,
Some times the tachometer indicates a minimum of 1,300 rpm,
even with the engine stopped. (PCM?)
--
Thanks for the information of change 'D' > '3 ', etc.
(in this part of America automatic cars are few)

No.. but start another topic so that it can be answered directly and be easier for others with same or similar issue to find a solution after... rather than attaching to a completely different topic!

still trying and learning
Now, in the distributor.
Thank you

lol sorry. :D