02' strauts 2.7
I'm trying to help out my son-in-law who is in the Navy & half way across the country, who is letting his mother drive his 02' stratus with ~127K, because her car, the tranny is out & she cant afford to rebuild it. I'm not familiar with dodges at all. & yes money is tight for all involved.
ANYHOW....the stratus has come up with a p0340 code twice now in as many weeks...seems to run fairly well otherwise, but apparently has very resently had a hard start & a bit of hesitation on a cold start...once driven, starts normally. it does seem to run a bit cool according to the temp gauge on the dash, & does not want to shift into OD. resent work includes; a new upper radiator hose housing with temp sensor and battery. pretty sure it was bled/burped, meaning no air pocket. the alternator output checked out @ 15v on cold start. some indicate that the cam position sensor (p0340), and the crankshaft position sensor should be changed together , Is that really necessary??? or is it just a bad connection?? where is the cam & crankshaft position sensor located (no manual) & how difficult are they to change and or check?? Any special tools needed? Is there more than 1 cam position sensor?? seeing as it is a DOHC? Would the new T stat help cure the not shifting into OD?? My thought here is with the low temp reading...it "thinks" it still is in warm up mode and not shifting into OD?? need feed back here. |
Welcome to DF
The camshaft sensor is front of the engine, the upper radiator hose is just above it. Replace it with a moper sensor. The because I have been see sensors from a auto part store failing. There maybe also a emission flash update too for the PCM. |
Originally Posted by master tech
(Post 2504984)
Welcome to DF
The camshaft sensor is front of the engine, the upper radiator hose is just above it. Replace it with a moper sensor. The because I have been see sensors from a auto part store failing. There maybe also a emission flash update too for the PCM. So there is only one sensor then? correct! agreed that the aftermarket parts Quality have taken a nose dive any specialty tools needed?? or special re installation techniques to be aware of?? |
T stat
How tough is it to change the T stat??
look pretty crowded....come out the bottom ?? true?? Also...seeing as the 2.7 is very problematic...can the 3.2 or 3.0 be swapped without too much hassle?? or with that be trading issues? |
update
Ok... got this tore down...removing the ALT to get at the Lower radiator hose and T-stat housing. ( talk about Hemorrhoid
the belt look factory and very worn...so we'll replace them too. Is it a good Idea to replace the water pump now?? or let it be and hope this is all there is to it. ALSO how much more trouble is it to replace the water pump at this juncture??...with alt removed...& passenger side lower splash pan removed, do not have the crankshaft pulley off...nor have I replaced the T-stat yet. It appears from pictures of a new water pump, that this has the timing chains involved what else is all involved? ugg Anything else that needs attention? |
Replace the water,only if it leaking. To replace the water pump is 7 to 10 hours to do. Thats because the timing chains would need to be removed out of the engine.
|
Originally Posted by master tech
(Post 2513489)
Replace the water,only if it leaking. To replace the water pump is 7 to 10 hours to do. Thats because the timing chains would need to be removed out of the engine.
Seems pretty silly to put a maintenance item like a water pump & tie it to the timing chains:icon_eek: :icon_screwy::icon_rant: sad really:icon_doh: |
new progress??
Just a side note....got the old T stat out...noted some rub marks on the copper/brass inner core of the T stat...is this signs of hanging up? Did a test where I placed it into some boiling water...it did not seem to open as far as the replacement aftermarket.
ALso I thought this ODD...when driving over it did not get warm on the temp gauge at all....also no heat inside either. ( yes it was topped off with coolant prior to the 10mile trip to my garage) and no it did not boil over. ^^Is this clue as to what is malfunctioning^^ Thanks again |
another question/s.....when crusing @ 55-60MPH....what kind of RPMs should the engine be turning?? Currently just about 2000-2100 rpm. everything is stock...auto tranny. seems to shift just fine BTW
got everything back together..ended up changing the spark plugs too. Also did a compression check....the front back were all pretty even at 190 PSI the rear back, going left to right , as from the front, were 180, 175, 190 PSI I probably should have retested the left and center again...but space, my body and my patience all are limited.>>> Is this signs of continued flu like symptoms?:icon_denk: |
Cricket...Cricket
Hello...anybody home? |
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