It's been a great couple years with this car. Never had anything major go wrong with it. (a $5 TCM gasket made me think I lost the transmission). Just not sure if I should put any more $$ into it, sell it and put the $ down on a 4 door pickup (I have my reasons), OR fix the current issue, and put more $$ to fix the other minor things as I go along.

IF its a resounding "sell it!" should I part it out since it's in physically good shape, or try to find a buyer as-is.

I just recently put nearly 1,000$ to pass PA state inspection in May (tires, brakes, battery, assorted bulbs, wiper blades). We don't do emissions in the county I live in. I really don't want to have to put any more into it, since I bought it for 1,200 about 3 years ago, and put about 40,000mi on it. If that was it, It was $ well spent.

A few weeks ago, it just died out on my way home. Acted like I was out of gas. I had about 1/2 tank based on gauge AND miles driven since full. Determined that the fuel pump wasn't turning on (makes sense to me!), had it towed home, and tried it the next day, started right up, pump humming along normally.

Specs:
2000 ES V6 w/AutoStick (179,xxxMI)
Leather Seats
Power windows, power locks, remote locks.
Tinted windows
Premium speakers (8 speaker amplified stock), Pioneer mp3/cd radio.
A/C blows cool (not really cold, just needs recharged, no refrigerant leaks).

Things that need fixed now:
Fuel pump (MAJOR)(NEEDS FIXED ~~$200)
Blower relay (off, or HIGH speed)(Eh, don't really care)
Blower (shakes car when blowing)(Eh, bothersome, but not critical to fix)
A/C (cools, but not COLD)(Eh, good enough for me, except on the REALLY hot days)
Door Switches (back doors don't trigger the dome light)(Don't care)

Things that are new/nearly new:
Front brakes (pads & rotors)
Rear brakes (just pads)
Tires (less than 3000mi, all 4 brand new in May, '11)

Critical things that are good:
Engine (high mileage, new valve cover gaskets 2 years ago), Runs and idles just fine.
Transmission (new TCM gasket 3 years ago), shifts just fine, both auto and slapstick shifting.
Power seats, all functions good.
Power Mirrors, all functions good
Power windows, all function good.
Lighting, headlights hazed, foglights good, tail lights good, interior lights good.

 

Keeping or selling is up to you. If you do sell, I hope you will continue to post on the forum. As the information you have given has been helpful.

 

Ive got 225K on mine and I still burn rubber. Right now it is out of commission. Died while driving. I happened 4 years ago and was the dist. So Naturally, I replaced the Dist. $100 on Amazon. No dice. Pump jumped ran perfect. So its not the pump. Shop manual says without working Cam and crank sensors, injectors, coil and pump will not function. So it looks like I will be pulling the dist off tomorrow and replacing the crank sensor which I believe is located just below the dist. I love this car and right now, its best to invest. Valve guide seals are next to go. It might be a problem compressing springs with those tubes in the way. They wont budge. Other than that, everything is wonderful

 

^
And this | is another reason I am thinking of selling off the car, but a new car is much more than a 200$ fuel pump and the other small things. But the flip side is that it's an old car with a lot of miles, even for it's age. I absolutely love the handling characteristics of the 1g Strat, the v6 Mitsubishi engine is nearly bullet proof as well as powerful, and lets face it, the 41te trans is a rock solid beast. There is little to no rust (which is WEIRD since I live where they use that nasty salt brine).

If I change that fuel pump, What's going to break next? I feel like a gambler going "I'll walk away now, but that next pull could be the jackpot..."

 

Its not your fuel pump that shut you down. In any case....its $129 not $200.

If you havent changed both lower control arms......you will be very soon. When the heat shield on your ball joints starts to etch the wheels you will know its time.

 

Alright pixelpadre, if it's not the fuel pump that is going (works fine until the car has been running for a while, I did some more testing, and found that if I added cool gas to it, it allows the pump to come back online. Sounds an awfully lot like a seizing bearing in the pump. When the pump isn't kicking on, I've verified that it's getting the proper power. I'll be darned if swapping the pump won't fix it. I have found them for the 130 price, but my number includes my time to fix it. If I'm under the car, I'm not doing consulting, and that costs me real $$.

I recall your post about the ball joints etching your wheels. The heat shield and suspension components are in good shape, but can't say if it's because they were replaced before I bought it, or if they just never got to wearing out.

I might try to trade it in and see if a dealer won't give me a grand for it on trade, the other option I was thinking was parting it out, but not sure if it's worth my effort to do so.

 

Well in that case it might be your fuel pump.

My stratus has been down for a week. Today I replaced the crankshaft position sensor for $62.00. I have changed the Dist also. And the pump will still not come on with the ignition on. Directly wiring the fuel pump will make it run.

I'm wondering if my timing belt slipped and knocked the crank and cam out of timing there by activating Automatic Shut Down. If the engine was shut down automatically, fuel pump, coil and injectors would be shut off.

Does anyone know if my DOHC 2.5L v6 is non interference in the event that I did jump the timing?

 

It is.

 

I can guarantee you that it is the crankshaft position sensor.
I had the same thing happen to me as well. I got lucky and one day it died infron of my mechanics house. He hooked up his ODBII tool and showed the sensor was at fault.
Once the car cooled down for a bit it had no problem starting back up

 

with it being the sensor, would that keep the pump from, well, pumping when there is power going to it? I've had the crank sensor go on my T&C, and it didn't act quite the same. This acted like it simply ran out of fuel (sputter and slow down), the sensor acted like it was a sudden shutdown (like someone turned the key off).