DodgeForum.com - 4th Gen Ram Tech

Diff change and now whine on coast side 2010 1500 3.55 gears

Geawiel — Mon, 04 May 2026 19:49:31 GMT

I did a change and put in a limited slip. I got a good contact patch on the drive side, but I struggled to get anything to show on coast side. I decided to button everything up and see what I get. Drive side is completely quiet. Coast side whines over 20 mph.

Installed is: new diff, new ring gear, new bearings and caps. new axle bearings, new axle seals. Didn't touch the pinion.

2010 Ram Fuel pump replacement issues

KenStauss — Fri, 01 May 2026 16:40:02 GMT

I recently had to replace my fuel pump. Had to drop the tank and cracked the line that feeds "overflow" fuel back to the tank. I'm assuming that's what it does since it connects to the hole in the fill pipe at the top. I tried to repair it to no avail. I left it disconnected. Now I have an issue with extremely slow fuel filling. I can't imagine that line would cause that problem. It's like it gets enough gas into the fill tube, then shuts the pump off. I have to wait a few seconds before I can do it again. 20 minutes to get a half tank. I checked the charcoal box air flow, and it seems fine (passes air without restriction. Replaced the esim valve, and my reader shows it opening and closing. I replaced the fill hose, thinking that it may have collapsed just enough to cause the problem. still no joy. I also checked the anti-syphon valve, and it appears to be working correctly. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

TPMS Trouble

Bleedmaroonag — Thu, 30 Apr 2026 21:04:44 GMT

On my last road trip, I lost one of my tpms sensors along the way. My tire pressure light came on and it started reading double dashes (--). I first took it to a local tire center that I've used before. They put on after market sensors but after a few days, they only got 1 to relearn to the truck, the other 3 had double dashes. They refunded my money and I took it to Discount Tire. They also replaced the tpms sensors with an aftermarket set and like the previous place, could only get 1 sensor to work. Ironically, it was the same one that worked after the first shop replaced them. I got another refund and took that money and put it towards buying an OEM set of sensors from Mopar. I took it back to Discount where they put them on for me for free. However, it's been several days now and I still only have 1 working sensor, the same one that has worked after all 3 sets have been installed: the front drivers side one. Has anyone ever had this type of issue or even heard of it? I don't think the RFH, radio frequency hub, is bad but I'm not sure about that either. If anyone has any thoughts, I'd appreciate hearing them. Thanks!

2011 Ram 1500 - 5.7 - 4x4 - Stallijg on decel - No codes

GumbyRT — Wed, 22 Apr 2026 03:45:30 GMT

Mileage 187k

About 300 miles ago, I put a cam & lifters in this engine. It was a bone-stock repair using parts ordered per VIN from local dealership - no performance mods or programming.

The repair was very standard/common in terms of how things went - there was nothing about the engine that I found during tear down & cleaning/inspection that I noted as unusual or concerning.

The throttle body was pretty dirty but the plate moved freely, so I cleaned it with carb cleaner, rags & compressed air.

All appropriate ECM reset/relearn procedures were done.

I did find the VVT actuator solenoid had broken screens on it (the plastic seams of the screen had broken but the actual screens were in tact) and replaced the solenoid, but there were no other problems noted.

Engine was assembled in-vehicle using service manual per Identifix, and I had no reason to question the specs or procedures.

The initial start after the repair, and the subsequent test drives (total of 4 drives), were all very standard.

The truck ran fine for about 300 miles, then it began stalling on deceleration, particularly when exiting the highway/interstate.

There are no codes for the power train and no drive ability concerns.

I�ve already scoped the crank & cam signals during the stall and there�s nothing wrong with the signals (at least not that�s visible in the wave form).

I�ve also confirmed the torque converter clutch and VVT/MDS systems are disengaging and not stuck on.

It will stall at almost exactly 1,000 RPM every time IF the ambient temperature is approx. 50*F or warmer. At lower temps, the stalling is not as consistent, but will still occur if driven for longer periods on the highway.

The stalling can be prevented by tapping on the accelerator pedal or by shifting to neutral.

I�ve already checked & tested several other components/wiring/etc. but no luck.

As always, thank you.:icon_beerchug:

mds delete

Jaymie1 — Sun, 19 Apr 2026 00:59:51 GMT

i have a 2009 ram 5.7 liter and i want to delete the mds is that difficult?