Would anyone know what size fuel rail is on the v6 spirit? And would the 3.3 fuel rail work on it?

 

Only 3.0 fuel rails work with 3.0s. 3.3/3.8Ls had a different layout as they were Dodge engines instead of Mitsu engines.
Why are you asking?

 

I'm wanting to add a little more power on my motor. I've read that stock fuel rails are 48mm and the 52mm would fit but I wanna make sure before I buy one

 

You are thinking of throttle body. Stock is a 46mm, you want a 52mm from a 3.3L (1990-2000).
This will help you, I had all of stage 1 and most of stage 2 done on my Acclaim, I never was at a loss for fuel and the car went like crazy: https://www.turbododge.com/forums/f1...e-3-0-how.html

This thread is a general build up guide line for the 3.0 mitsubishi /dodge V6. It is divided up into 3 stages.


Stage 1



1. 52mm throttle body these are easily found in junk yards. mostly out of late 80's caravans. you can also find them on the Chrysler 3.3 of the 90's. look in the big cars like the intrepid,LHS,and so on.

2. plenum spacers a number of people have made these ranging in thickness of 1/2 inch to 1 inch that i have used. this will help reduce the turn the air takes from the upper intake to the lower. P bodies have the least hood clearance and can only handle about a 3/8 to 1/2 inch spacer. in my 2nd gen daytona and 3rd gen lebaron vert i used a 1 inch. people have made their own out of everything from aluminum to wood! as long as the stuff can handle up to 300* it will work! just lay your upper intake gasket on top and trace it out! cut it out and bolt it on! Hood clearance is the key thing to watch here. Shadow's can take 1/2" spacer at most and it may still rub... Daytona's and LeBaron's can take 3/4

3. cold air intake. no one at the time of this writing makes a true bolt on CAI. but, making one is easy. many speed shops sell universal pipe and cone style filters to build your own.

4.poly motor/trans/bobble strut mounts. these are sold by forward motion,front wheel drive performance,and others. this will help your take offs alot!!

5.magnacore plug wires

6. good spark plugs. this is a point of question!!! i would talk to others and see what they are using and make a choice you believe will work the best. i like E3's and i get flak about it. others like a simple champion plug. do your research and make a good decision. I have talked to a couple guys that run engine dynos. They have seen people try all sorts of spark plugs. Almost universally they get the best results with standard plug.

7. move the coil to the front of the intake. this isn't a big improvement but it will help reduce the voltage drop by using a shorter coil wire. thus making a bigger boom!!!

8. 3 inch exhaust. a couple of shops sell these. i like to use the magnaflow 3 inch cat and muffler with the pipes. FWDperformance one of our venders sells the exhaust.

9. a new O2 sensor! believe it or not much can be gained by just getting rid of old sloppy sensors!!

10. ditch the A/C if you are cool with it gone.

11. under drive pulley. not sure any one sells these any more. mixed feelings about its use. some say they experience a dimming of lights at night. others say everything is fine. ??
how much of an electrical load you have at idle. If your engine is otherwise stock setup (no aftermarket stereo/amps, no MSD 6A) you should be fine. But if you have either of those and you run your headlights, the voltage will dip... In dyno testing the UDP was worth.

12.1st gen fuel rail off a caravan. these flow better that the later. the factory fuel pressure reg is bigger on these that the later ones.

13. adjustable fuel pressure regulator w/gauge

14 Walbro 255LPH fuel pump. this really isn't needed now but for future mods this will be a must! The only reason to bother with this now is if you need to replace the pump. The stock pump was still good at ~300whp.


Stage 2


in this section we will get to the real meat of the 3.0 build. these mods will require you to open up the motor. i will be making reference to the MS or mega squirt but i will not go into this we have other threads that will cover this here.

https://www.turbododge.com/forums/f11...all-guide.html

1. first mod is to port the upper and lower intakes. kmperformance can do this for you or you can do it your self. i would refer you to his site to see the all the in's and out's of this mod.

2 head porting. kmperformance does stage one which is cleaning up what the factory left behind. this is a great step toward making real HP! stage 2 is really meat and potatoes of porting! a good portion of this thread Ed will be able to do for you at his shop!

3. valve springs and cams. the misubishi DIAMANTE cams have a better profile than stock and are a direct bolt in. you can also contact crower cams and they can do a regrind to just about any profile with in reason. also kmperformance has a nice selection of valve springs and retainers to help keep up with the cam. Right now the choices are Schneider 6610 which are a drop in replacement or the 3.3L springs with LS1 retainers and locks.

4.92-04 mitsubishi 3.0 12v DIAMANTE 10:1 pistons. this will raise the compression up 1.1 points or .7 points depending on year and will work well with the ported heads and intake. the 24v pistons will bolt in but the valve reliefs don't align up to the 12v valves there for they wont work . i want to state at this point that if you plan to turbo your 3.0 you should probley not use the 10:1 pistons. the factory compression is more than enough!

5. fridenza aluminum flywheel. and a performance clutch. as far as clutches i use a center force stage 3 clutch. there are a few others to chose from. There are also a couple lighter weight steel flywheel options available

6. at this point you'll want to step up the fuel. this is where the mega squirt comes in. this will take a bit of work but if i can do it you can!!! If your not interested in increasing the RPM cutoff point, a "piggy-back" controller (ie. Greddy e-Manage) is an easier alternative that won't require a full re-cal. The e-Manage works best with high-impedance injectors (ie. 92+ 3L V6) ED Kelly has a great install guide at web site. http://www.kmperformance.com/techcen...ge_install.pdf

7. for those with the low impedance injectors you can step up the fuel with turbo II injectors. for the hi impedance injectors i use ford mustang injectors. they come in just about any size you can think of!

8. custom intake. some of us will build custom upper intakes i would weigh this carefully before doing. it is a lot of work but will make for a great deal of power if done correctly.

9. ignition. when using the MS you have a lot of choices for the ignition. you can use the factory distributor (dizzy) or use a distributorless ignition like the ford EDIS,the Mitsubishi 3.0 ignition. in the MS thread he covers this and has great info to help you get started.

10. do a search for the automatic 4 speed to 5 speed trans swap. it is a thread all to its self!

11. wide band O2 sensor for the MS!! that is a must for running MS!!! i used the Innovate Standalone Gauge Kit w LC-1 & Blue DB


stage 3


turbo charging.
1. there are a couple of ways to do this. and both are produced by Kelly-Mulhern Performance. one has the turbo mounted over the rear valve cover the other is mounted over the trans. if you want to mount the turbo over the trans you'll need to flip the upper intake so the throttle body is facing the passenger side of the car. you'll need to get the intake spacers we talked about in stage 1 to do this.
2.choosing a turbo.... you need to have a sit down with a vender . most like the T3/T4 hybrid turbo. then using the correct compressor and such to match your set up.

you'll need to choose a blow off valve.boost control,and a host of coolant and oil feed lines. mega squirt will be able to support the boost.

the factory ECU has been used with a turbo. if i remember correctly you can run 8psi on the factory.

next is you innercooler. many have used them off other cars some buy a new one off summit racing.

i know all of this seems a little veg but this is to start you off with ideas to help you get your project off the ground. others will chime in and help with the little things i have left out. also search the 3.0 forum you'll find many others have wanted to do the same as you!!!
With an FMU, Greddy e-Manage and 30#, I have been able to handle 8psi (~300whp). The setup could probably support a few more psi... Maybe even more if I run some auxillary injectors.

The e-Manage handles mainly recurving the fuel curve to support the improved high-RPM breathing of the stage 2 heads. The 10:1 FMU covers the boost.
IF you have a "big" turbo and "low-boost", you can potentially get by without an intercooler. The turbo will need to be operating close to the peak efficiency island and boost not be excessive to have a shot at this.

During dyno testing, turbo-outlet temperatures were a max of 40F over ambient at 8psi...

So there is potential to run without an intercooler, but I would recommend checking your turbo outlet temperatures to be sure. And recheck those temperatures _every_ time you increase boost.

All that said, I would still recommend running an intercooler...
Don't forget that you can supercharge the 3.0 as well. Gives a different feel and powerband but is equally valid as turboing. The M90 and M112 eaton units are good options depending on your power goals.

These engines take very well to basic mods. Intake, 52mm throttle body, and better exhaust open them up tremendously. Take your time, do it right, have fun.