Hello, i have a 74 w100, that they swapped the 383 out for a 440 (actually an underbore at 426ci), then ended up selling it to me.

I have a lot of work to do on it, i understood it needed a lot of work, but after $2k in parts, 3k for the truck, as well as being my replacement for my 12s qm camaro some idiot relived me of due to him running a stop sign, im almost out of steam with this truck. My dream trucks became a nightmare.

I have fuel, spark, new everything besides dist inernals and replacing like new ecu chrome. Wires connecting everything to ground properly, brand new ballast resist, cap rotop, coil, vr, plugs, wires, carb is sexy nice.

But when i turn my key no boom boom...

I have been out of work two weeks, im stumped, ran like a champ (2 months) till it started losing spark, replaced cap and rotor, ran sexy for 10min, died and its been dead 2 weeks.

 

Replaced ballast and vr since, unchanged.

 

You need to check and make sure it is getting power from the ignition switch. This is the wiring for it but your ballast maybe the 4 pin type.

 

Try removing wiring from ballast,direct to coil.It's always the little thing that screw up the day.Just athought

 

So i want to see battery voltage at the ballast (ignition side)? Its a 4 pin ballast esistor, do you have a diagram for it? Po was a druggie from the looks and condition of wiring, want to make sure its not backwards or something.

Cruiser, i just let em hang and alligator clip bypass to coil?

I was really flustered when i wrote the first post. A little backround to help solve the no run mystery. Bought truck w/ fuel cell, replaced that with 20gal incab tank, had to reline. It holds pressure/fuel level for days sitting, so fuel is good. Then one day i make my rounds, starts seeming to vape lock, so i pull over and push it. Tighten a hose, pressure is back, ran for .5mile then died. Checked fuel level (no gauges in dash for fuel) i was 7/8 full, so i pop my dissy cap after fluid level checks ( 2q low old oil so just water loss), changed oil on spot 15-30 high zinc. No change. Checked distributor, rotor was loose enough to sound like a guitar string breaking when checked for Play , so i babied it 20miles to home, swapped the cap and rotor, started up sexier than ever. Was always confused why a 440 on dual cherry bombers sounded like my dads cst10 350. Retuned carb, took around the block to test at 25mph, carb tune needed a little more fuel to air, while i enriched it, then checked for carburetor lag (when the mis is off on an afb it makes a snorting sound before catching) got it dialed in, sounded like a healthy 440 should, then it cut off like i turned it off at the key. Went to refire, no catch, tried again, click, again click, checked battery voltage, 11.96v battery is low, wouldnt hold a charge.

Bought new battery, no start. Then i went like a madman looking for open circuits and shorts, field wires plastic terminals were crispy, fusible link half melted, why i also replaced the vr, ballast and icu just in case. Also (replacing with not using) a few twist on connectirs with soldier and tape with no avail.

Ill try it in the am my neighbors hated me already for my camaros pipes, post pics as well.

 

What is the difference in my 4 pin br?

Ignition wire to coil right?

Long story short, got truck, did new fuel system, ran great. Rotor went out of spec, replaced it and the cap, fired up immediately when started. Made a run around the block, needed to enrichen f2a in carb, battery died. Bad cell, but while it charged i inspected the wires, most were charred terminals, replaced those propperly with new ones, and a new fusible link. Bought new battery, wouldnt start.

 

When it died, it was like i shut it off

 

it fired up! then it cooked my alligator clip. I connected one of the solo red wires, to the pos.

 

You are all over the place! Start with getting the ignition straighten out then fix the other issues. There where two ballast resisters used in the electronic ignition systems. It depends on witch one you have. Get a wiring diagram it will help!!! Only thing the ballast does is cut the battery voltage down a bit when running. It gets full battery voltage when cranking due to the amp draw from the starter. You may want to also check the bulk head connector for melted terminals. That is also fairly common for theses trucks.

 

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