so my hemi tick is getting more pronounced as time goes on. Once its warmed up, the truck only idles at like 4-500 RPM's and at times seems like its going to stall. The tick is getting louder and louder and im tired of it. The dealership said it would cost like 700$ just to tear it down, and IF they find anything wrong, my extended warranty might cover it. I would just assume buy new poshrods and springs and basically rebuild the valvetrain. I know this sounds like a longshot but does a company like hughes or something sell some sort of a kit with everything you need? I would just as soon buy the parts on my own, and pay a reputable speedshop to redo the valvetrain. I have a feeling that eventually its gonna drop a valve or break a spring and have it fly off and do alot of damage.

I know there have been a number of people who have done this, and I was hoping for some advice on how to go about this. I dont think im a good enough mechanic to do this myself so keep that in mind.

Any help would be much appreciated
Thanks guys

 

http://www.rpmoutlet.com/ramhemibas.htm
What about something like this? I could get a mild cam, springs, rods and retainers for like 800$. anyone ever thought about doing something like this? Im seriously considering it, but I wont get the parts until I find out that these are 1. the right parts, and 2. will fix the problem. I know I dont need a cam, but if Im gonna rebuild the valvetrain I mightas well put in a more agressive cam.... just for the sheer purpose of bad-assery.

 

The "Hemi Tick" has never been shown to be a negative issue with the engine aside from the annoying sound. Due to the short skirt and thin rings the pistons just rock in the cylinders a tad. It's never been shown to cause undo damage or even excessive wear. A true "Hemi Tick" doesn't get significantly louder over time or with use.

I'm thinking if the ticking you're hearing is getting worse, it'd be more a lifter/valve spring issue. Especially with you having an '03. Cam, springs, rods and retainers will fix it if that's you issue, but you'll still have a "Hemi Tick".

The 260 is a nice cam and is mild enough that it generally doesn't require a custom tune...

 

this is what Im thinking... since it does get worse over time. hell even if Im wrong and its something else its generally a smart move to replace all that **** anyway.

 

I will tell you just how complicated it is to fix just as soon as you or someone else actually comes up with the truthful answer as to what causes it. I don't think anyone really knows. Seems to be a couple things that some feel are behind it but I have yet to see a real definitive answer as to what it really is.

With all due respect to the poster above I don't believe it is due to short skirts, thin rings, and loose pistons. That is the definition of the GM piston slap problem and that issue is a TON worse than the HEMI tick. That can be so bad it sounds like a diesel engine when you start the vehicle up. Plus, if that was the actual cause behind the HEMI Tick it would be louder at cold start and then gradually go away as the engine reached operating temp and everything expanded closing the tolerances.

What I have seen listed as the cause that makes the most sense is valves and push rods. Back around 03-05 everyone claimed it was valves. A few people reported getting an updated set put in from Dodge that fixed it but it could never be verified. Then the popular fix became swapping the push rods out to new ones( tick eventually comes back ) or to the slightly longer 6.1 rods( still seems to come back but takes longer ). I have yet to see a true fix for it. Everything seems to be temporary.

I had a 2004 Ram 1500 w/ the HEMI and it had the tick really bad. I was able to lessen it to a degree with Royal Purple synthetic oil( 5W-30 ). It was still there but not as bad. I think the superior lubricating properties of the RP helped to ease whatever was causing the tick. Bottom line was it helped; some anyway. The truck ran great though and was very strong. I now have a 2008 Ram 1500 w/ the HEMI and knock on wood no tick at all( yet - 23,000 ). Also running RP( 5W-20 ).

The fact you claim your's is getting worse does sound like soemthing is starting to fail. Could be a bad valve spring as that is not uncommon in the 5.7L. If the sound intensity changes as the engine warms up though it is more than likely not the HEMI Tick. The HEMI tick is there cold or hot and it will be at the same level the whole time. If the noise gets better or worse as the engine warms I would say it is not actually the tick.

You actually can do a swap of the springs and push rods in the vehicle. You have to get the valve covers and rocker arms off and then you can swap the pushrods. To change the springs you will need a special attatchment for your air hose that screws in where the spark plug goes pressurizing the cylinder so the valve stays in place once you remove the keeper. Once the cylinder is pressurized you use a puller and compress the spring so you can remove the keeper. You then back oiff on the tool releasing the spring.

It might be worth it to pay someone though. There is a LOT to undo to get to it all. It isn't like an old muscle car where you can do it pretty quick and easy. I had an old Dodge Polara w/ a 383 that would eat away at the valve stem seals. I had to swap them out pretty often. I could do all 16 of them in less than 2 hours start to finish. It will take 2 hours to get one side undone in these truck there is so much CRAP in the way.

 

Or it just could be if you changed your oil recently. some brands really make the " tick" worse. Mobile 1 is the worst for the " tick "

 

I have a 2004 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi with the same ticking problem. We took the heads off and removed the lifters. The lifters had nothing wrong with them. Some normal wear for 240k. It was the push rods that had a lot of wear. Over 5 thou shorter than new. These rods work on an angle against the lifter. Most overhead valve engines the pushrod works straight against the lifter. I found most of the rods had a pointed look on the ends that worked against the lifter. I could have saved all that work and cost if I had of just removed the tappet covers, rocker arms and put new rods in. so check them out before you go further taking the heads off!

 

Can anybody tell me if 6.1 pushrods will help Hemi tick in a 04 5.7? I had the heads off and changed the lifters, which didn't need changing, the cam was perfect wear. The push rods were pointed on the end working against the lifter because of the angle Hemi' have. I put new ones in and started it yesterday it' making the same noise. It' got 240k and is otherwise a perfect engine.

 

Exhaust manifold bolts, lose or broken contribute to the hemi tick, 13 years with my 06, I feel somethings off if I do not hear my 57 sounding like a CTD at a drive threw, call me crazy, but the old girl sounds better after replacing the spark plugs....

 

I've had broken exhaust bolts rattling. They don't sound anything like the steady 'tick' of a worn pushrod. Don't listen to mechanics telling you it' the lifters. The difference in the cost of replacing pushrods vs lifters is $1,500.00 roughly. Pushrods cost 70.00 and 4hrs labour changing them. To change lifters the whole front end of the truck needs to come off in order to get in there to take the heads off. It' a miserable job.