Well, I think I spun a rod bearing in my 360 with 160k miles. I have a loud knocking low oil pressure at idle, but it climbs as you get on the gas. It makes me think I spun a bearing. I considered upgrading to another truck, but I just can't find one I like and the prices are crazy for something I drive 2,000 miles a year. The only thing I really like significantly better about the newer trucks is the huge increase in power. After driving my daily driver, getting in my truck it feels like a slug. This makes me think I minus well spend the money and build the stroker motor that I've wanted for the last 10 years as it would still be much cheaper than even a used 5-6 year old truck.

However, once I started doing research I started having second thoughts. I'm reading a ton of reports of people fiddling with these things for a year trying to get them running right. This is something I really don't want to deal with. I want to drop it in, get a tune and have it running. The next concern is that I'm seeing an aweful lot of people claiming they blew it up again at 15-20k miles. If I spend $8,000 +/- on a motor and it only lasts me 20,000 miles, I'm not going to be a happy camper. I already went through that with a transmission when I spent $4,500 or so on an APS transmission and it lasted 30k miles. I don't want to repeat that.

So, I guess my question is, what is the reliability of these stroker motors really like? Is it possible to build one in the 400-450hp range and get similar mileage out of it as I've gotten out of my stock 360? Basically the only things I use this truck for are hunting, light offroading, and towing my dirt bikes and atv. Am I going to run into issues with a stroker motor running hot while towing, or is it a non concern?

Next question is which kit is best? I see a lot of people recommending KRC on previous threads, but it seems like they are no longer around. Is the Hughes kit the one to go with now, or is there a better option out there? I've seen a few people talk about Ohio Crankshafts since they are cheap, but the reviews on other forums I'm a member of (not Mopar forums) are horrendous. There are enough people having issues with them that I'm not willing to risk it. Is the forged crank shaft worth the extra cash? I see that the 408's are internally balanced versus my current 360 is externally balanced. Is the best option to just run the balancer and flywheel from a 318? Or is there a better way to accommodate this?

Also, what cam and heads are the best to go with if I'm trying to make 400-450 HP? Most of the articles I can find of actual builds with dyno sheets are LA blocks and completely different. What's a good choice for our magnum motors?

Anything else I should know about a 408? Will I regret going with this build? It doesn't seem like it costs much more than a nice 360 build, so I'd really like to go with it unless I'm going to have a ton of reliability issues.

 

First, don't build for for a HP target number. You will be disappointed in the results. To achieve those power levels, you will need a fairly lumpy cam, with will develop its power in the higher parts of the RPM range, not what you want in a truck.....

So, pick parts that will put the power where you want it. Low to mid range. Towing/RV cam, air gap intake, (or M1 2bbl...... yeah, they are more mid-high rpm oriented, but, you will still end up with a monster torque curve, that won't fall flat at 4K RPM......) Good flowing heads (2.02 valves will give you better mid-high RPM power, 1.92s are better for low end, but, since you are dramatically bumping displacement, might go with the 2.02s, just for the better mid-range power.) And of course, headers... Shorties improve the torque curve down low, long-tubes more in the mid-upper RPM range. Then finish it off with a good free-flowing exhaust.

The tune is going to be the fun part. I don't know if Flyin' Ryan is still doing custom tunes for 2nd gens, wouldn't hurt to blast him off an email, and see what he has to say. I suspect it won't be cheap though, as I think for his custom tunes, he now wants to show up on your doorstep, and take the truck to a dyno to tune it.

The other alternative would be to purchase the software/equipment, and attempt to tune it yourself....... Cost would likely be similar to having Ryan show up.... maybe a bit cheaper, depending on where you are, and how the job goes.....

I would also chat with Hemifever, and see what success he has had tuning 408's.

An even cheaper solution would be to just pick up a 360 long block, and drop it in. Quick, MUCH less expensive than the 408, and less complicated as well. Simply going to a 'new' motor, for the old and tired original, will likely give your truck a whole new personality.