I have a 1998 2.5l Dakota w/AC that is having a problem with the cooling fan relay getting extremely hot. The contacts on one relay even stuck closed causing the fan to stay on even with the engine off. The fan is the little metal OEM 52028201AC style although it was swapped out for a VDO PM3627 a few years ago. I pulled the connector to the relay from under the PDC and the connection looked heated but not burned. I replaced it anyway just to be safe. The relay has been replaced, twice.

I am trying to find what the amp draw should be for the cooling fan motor. I thought that I read somewhere that it was 10 to 12 amps but I cannot find it again. I believe the relay is rated for 20A. I put a DC amp clamp on the motor and it is drawing 17A.

I cannot find any aftermarket listings for the direct replacement for this motor. The PM3627 is listed for '94-'97. There is also a listing for a 4Seasons 35651 for the '94-'97. Of course I can't find any specs on either of these motors either. The motor is only $35 but I hate to waste money on parts swapping.

Thanks,
Gary

 

That fan should have a fuse on it well under the rating of the relay contacts. If nothing else, it should be a 30 amp Bosch relay, not a 20 amp. With a 15 or 20 amp fuse.

On the 00+ wiring system, it is a 50 amp fuse with 10 gauge wiring, though some text specifies a 40 amp fuse.

I can't find a PN or amperage for what the relay should be.

 

If the relay is hot and the contact failing closed you are drawing too much power. Remember, the start up draw of a motor load is much higher than that when it is running - easily 3 times that load.

I'd go 50 amp like Magnethead suggests.

 

Thanks for the input guys. You helped me think this through. This is the factory set up, other than the aftermarket replacement fan motor. it has the 40A fuse in the PDC and uses 12ga wire. It is running the factory 04671168 relay which from everything I can find is rated at 20A on the contacts. If I apply the 75% rule to the 20A I should be able to run continuous 15A with no problem. Since I am drawing 17A+ I think I will take the $35 gamble on the a replacement motor and see what happens.

Has anyone used anything other than the PM3627 as a replacement motor?

 

There's no way there should be a 20 amp relay being fed by a 40 amp fuse. That would make the relay more of a fuse and the fuse more of a "Welp, we need to have something here" kind of thing.

That should be a 30 or 40 amp Bosch/Tyco relay. The 30/40's use the same 15/20/25 amp relay pinout, however the contacts have a different coating and are bigger inside the relay casing.

DAKAZ really could help here.

 

OK this is how I did it but I replaced a lot of things to bring it up to a 2000 Dakota that entailed new 2000 rad A/C condenser and fittings plus 2000 fan.

For the fast easy swap just fab a mount for a 2000 Dakota fan then just use any connector to connect the fan to the power. I used the proper OEM connector but they are extremely expensive just use what you can find. Other than the connector everything is stock 98 Dakota no other changes were made for the fan. What you may encounter is room for the fan as the other changes I made put the rad on the outside of were a 98 rad mounts to were a 2000 rad mounts.

My thread on it pay attention to the rad changes as a 2000 fan mounts directly to a 2000 rad it has mounts made on the rad for it.

No fan shroud is needed my 98 2.5 stays cool with this swap.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...n-later-2.html

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98DAKAZ,
That is a very clean '98. You did a nice job on the upgrade too. My truck has never had a cooling problem so was just trying to get it back to normal. I replaced the fan motor with the Four Seasons 35651 that is spec'd for the '94-'97 Dakota's. The new motor is only pulling 8.75A, half of what the old motor was drawing, so I am back in business.

Thanks for the input guys, much appreciated.
G