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Frame rivets

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Old 09-17-2017, 05:48 AM
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Default Frame rivets

Is there a problem with cutting frame rivets and replacing them with bolts?

Specifically, the ones on the back of the frame. I took the bed off and I would like to clean the frame and paint it. Would be easier to wire brush, etc if the frame cross sections, spring hangers etc were not attached.
 
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Old 09-17-2017, 08:56 AM
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That's what I did. I grinded off every rivet head and replaced them with nuts, bolts and lock washers. No problems.
 
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Old 09-17-2017, 12:41 PM
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I'd use some good tight thread locker (the "Gotta Burn It Out!" kind, not the "Joe Armstrong and his Cheater Bar" kind) instead of a lock washer; but yes, the rivets were used for two reasons - 1)They're cheaper on an automated line, 2) They don't loosen up like nuts and bolts can.

If you know how to weld, you could always weld them together instead; that would also help make the frame a bit more rigid.

RwP
 
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Old 09-17-2017, 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by RalphP
I'd use some good tight thread locker (the "Gotta Burn It Out!" kind, not the "Joe Armstrong and his Cheater Bar" kind) instead of a lock washer; but yes, the rivets were used for two reasons - 1)They're cheaper on an automated line, 2) They don't loosen up like nuts and bolts can.

If you know how to weld, you could always weld them together instead; that would also help make the frame a bit more rigid.

RwP
Yeah honestly I agree. Threadlocker is a better solution than lock washers and if you're to use lock washers don't use the split ones, use the serrated ones or probably even better the serrated flange nuts. But standard nuts and washers and industrial threadlocker as Ralph said... can't go wrong.

I went through and double checked all my nuts and bolts twice after driving the truck for a while. Oddly the only ones I recall being a little loose were the bed bolts which were original. Don't know how that happened but whatever.
 
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Old 09-18-2017, 07:00 AM
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Want to thank you both for your advise!! I thought bolts would be fine, and I figured locktite as well.

I plan to seperate everything and then wire brush best I can. I plan to coat with por-15 and then reassemble, coat with rustoleum paint.

Would have liked to have it sandblasted, but its just to big of a project to get into right now.
 
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Old 09-18-2017, 08:34 AM
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Painting after doing the POR 15 really isn't necessary. You want the POR 15 to have a couple days to cure in any event. It leaves a rather nice, EXTREMELY durable finish. (Don't know if it is UV resistant though..... not like it's gonna get a lot of exposure....)
 
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Old 09-19-2017, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by HeyYou
Painting after doing the POR 15 really isn't necessary. You want the POR 15 to have a couple days to cure in any event. It leaves a rather nice, EXTREMELY durable finish. (Don't know if it is UV resistant though..... not like it's gonna get a lot of exposure....)


Been a few years since I used it, but (from memory) they say to coat if in a area with UV (sunlight) potential.
It may not be absolutely necessary, But I coat it with a spray can of rustoleum just to be safe. Its quick and cheap.
 
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Old 09-19-2017, 04:09 PM
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Originally Posted by 93 ragtop

Been a few years since I used it, but (from memory) they say to coat if in a area with UV (sunlight) potential.
It may not be absolutely necessary, But I coat it with a spray can of rustoleum just to be safe. Its quick and cheap.
*nod*

Even if necessary, it's cheaper than finding out that it WAS later

RwP
 
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Old 09-19-2017, 07:18 PM
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Even if it is exposed to UV, the only thing that happens is it turns grey.

That said, paint is cheap, and if you are right there anyway.....
 
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Old 09-19-2017, 09:26 PM
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I sprayed mine with gloss enamel after por. Just another data point.
 




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