So back during the summer months I did my auto to manual swap. I used a LUK clutch kit and also bout new clutch slave and master cylinders. All has worked great up until today, I was driving along and gave it about 1/2 throttle in 4th up a hill and the rpms went from about 1500 and launched upwards. It caught me off guard, and so I tried again and it did it again. I drove it up to the store and it did it, came back out, cycled the clutch about 10 times, drove off and couldn't get it to do it for about a 10 minute drive. Then when I got back in after my haircut, was able to do it. Clutch just slipping.

Now if it barley tap the clutch pedal while it begins to slip, the rpms jump way high as if I just presses the clutch in and released it. When I did the hydraulics, I used all new fluid, bench bled my master cylinder and then bled my slave, and to me it sounds like a clutch release issue. I'm not aware that air could cause an issue like this, just having to do with the hydraulic assembly's or the clutch itself.

Im trying to get some help on where to go from here. What's the best way to diagnose an issue like this? Granted, the clutch only has about 12000 miles on it too.

 

Air in the hydraulics won't cause it to slip...... problem is, if it is an intermittent problem, it's likely something inside the bellhousing that ain't quite right. Could be throwout bearing hanging up, pressure plate bolts backing out, or any of a number of other things. Unfortunately, that means dropping the trans.......

 

That's really something I didn't want to do, but if I have to...

would there be any chance one of these issues could be caused by a faulty master or slave cylinder? Any way to check those? They are brand new, but not the expensive stuff either. They are the cheapest on rock auto, API/precision clutch units, and the reason I bought them are because they are aluminum housings, not plastic like the factory ones.

i have the origional master cylinder and I child try swapping it, just don't want to without any diagnosis, because it's a involved job bleeding the hydraulics.

 

Usually, a hydraulic problem with the clutch means it won't disengage completely, so, you basically have to shut off the motor to get it into gear when stopped...... I don't think changing them out will make a difference...... Unless the slave cylinder is hanging up?

 

I've never owned a manual before this truck, so I've never know what's really Normal about one. Since I've put it together, I always had a couple clicks when depressing the clutch. About 3, and whenever I'd release it it would also click too. It drive great so I didn't think anything of it. When I checked it yesterday, the clicks are almost so quiet now I can barley hear them, so if this is an indication. I just really don't want to drop the Trans, trying to firgure out if it's something else b4.

how would I test If the slave is hanging up?

 

Is it external to the trans, and pushes on a fork you can see?

 

Yea bolts on to the outside and pushes a fork with the throw out bearing in the center. The other side of the fork just sits on a ball stud.

 

Have someone else push the clutch pedal, you watch what happens underneath. Probably have to do it several times....

 

You have what they call a wet clutch. Dodge starting using them in 94 and up. The older manuals 93 down are better as they have no hydraulics they are a dry clutch.

 

Sorry didn't catch the last part of your post. The slave is external, but the rest of the system sits in the bell housing cause see when slave is on. I pulled the slave off to have a look and saw nothing wrong with the slave, it's whole stroke moved in and out perfectly. The little movement I can make on the fork feels nice and free, no harsh dragging or sticking. I guesss I may just have to remove the trans. I know you said pressure plate bolts backing out and throw out bearing sticking, what else could cause this? It's intermittent, so i wouldn't think oil or anything got on there.