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Sluggish dakooter.

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Old 11-21-2017, 11:47 PM
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Default Sluggish dakooter.

Hey all. My ride is a 95 5.2L 5-spd 4x4 SLT club cab. 136k on the clock, sweet rig on 31x10.50s and it runs absolutely mint. My first 5-spd and have had it since July.

Been a wonderful truck thus far. However, as far as V8s go, it feels a little slow. Can't even burn the 31s. Before I sat my 3.2L V6 Isuzu on 33x12.50s, it seemed like even it could accelerate faster. I'm not a slowpoke when it comes to shifting; what gives? My 3.21s in the dakota?

I hate having to downshift to 2nd to go up the hill on my way home, especially with a V8 truck.
 
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Old 11-22-2017, 08:09 AM
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3.21s on 31's will make it a bit more sluggish.

Also, if it's never been tuned up properly, it won't run as good as it could.

Add to that Dodge tended to undertune their motors for emissions ...

So.

1) Tune it up by the book - proper plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, proper weight oil.

2) Make sure the cat isn't partially plugged if it was burning oil.

3) For #2, also verify the plenum gasket hasn't failed (look down into the throttle body with the motor off, and see if you see any oil and dirt. If you do, the plenum is leaking, and you need to regasket it or install the plenum fix kit, which is available from both Hughes and Mancini if not others.)

4) After all that - open up the exhaust some (if you can FIND them, the 92/93 exhaust manifolds were a bit bigger, and piping to match will help the motor breathe) Or find some nice headers; don't bother with the shorties, you might as well run factory exhaust manifolds but long tubes can help it breathe at speed.

5) Next is breathing - keep the air filter clean. Don't confuse a cone filter dumped out in the engine bay with a cold air intake; the factory intake IS a cold air, but it can be restrictive. The cone filter isn't as restrictive, but it's a hot air intake. If you do the cone style, be sure to put it in a box so it doesn't suck the hot air off the exhaust manifolds.

6) After all that *grins* Now time to start tearing into the motor - contact someone like Lunati, Comp Cams, etc. and find out what they recommend for a cam, rockers, lifters et al. Do all that with a set of EQ or Edlebrock heads to get the truck breathing even better.

None of this is magical, BTW ... these are all steps you'd do anyway.

Biggest problem is, the 95 is still SLI/OBDI so you can't get the ECU tuned. If you want to really go bonkers, find a 1996 donor, and convert to the OBDII JTEC computer in it (from the OBDI SBEC in yours currently); with that, you can then contact someone like Flyin' Ryan Performance or HemiFever and get the old girl really awakened up.

RwP
 
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Old 11-22-2017, 09:17 AM
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Everybody has an opinion, and I will share mine.

As ralph said, make sure the truck is running properly. ........
After that, in my opinion, what you want is more torque.....
That being said, I would change the 3.21 gears to something lower, ie 3.92 or more.
Besides that, switching the engine from a 318 to a 360 or if money permits 408.

Again, in my opinion, torque is what you want, so its gears or CID or both

Which brings me to a question for you. How much money you want to spend? Remember any of this is going to cost way more then you will ever get back out of the truck.
The one thing I disagree with ralph about, and that is the EFI system. For myself, once you start real mods, ie cam change, higher compression, more cid, etc. I would dump the mopar EFI system. I would go carb, if you can in your area, or go aftermarket EFI. But again, thats just my opinion.
 
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Old 11-22-2017, 10:22 AM
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Some disagree with this position but I have the 94 which is the first year they restricted the exhaust manifold. I had lots of issues and did all the fixes mainly because its as old as it is I didn't worry to make sure of the diagnosis. the three things that gave me the most noticeable improvements were the new after market crank sensor from Napa, fixing the broken studs in the exhaust manifold and adding a gasket there, and the new exhaust Y back from Rock Auto. I got the Walker Y pipe, a 49 state CAT and the muffler kit for less than I was quoted for a new CAT in local shops.I'm in western Oregon. The Y pipe is listed under pipe in the exhaust section. I didn't change the manifold and I got a lot more air flow the walker system which is I think 2.5"+ diameter. the Y isn't great it has corrugations in the bends but its still much better than the OE pipe which looked like a bicycle cross member to me. I had to get a couple extra clamps than came with to install it.
 
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Old 11-22-2017, 11:53 AM
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I did a full tuneup about 4K miles ago, did the whole 9 yards. Doesn't burn or use any oil so I don't think the cat is clogged. Will check the plenum in a minute before work. I found some headers and 1.7 rrs from summit that I'd love to look into. I've tried since I had the truck to find a MOPAR 5.2L or 5.9L performance PCM, but of course, no luck.


As far as regearing the front and rear, I've seen 3.92s, 4.10s, 4.56s for sale online for the 7.25 and 8.25" 27 spline axles in our 1st gens. BUT, regearing is EXPENSIVE. Would I be better off to find a wrecked dakota with 3.92s and just swap the entire axles over?


I put as much money into my truck as I can without skipping meals, lol.
 
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Old 11-22-2017, 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by KyleYankee
I did a full tuneup about 4K miles ago, did the whole 9 yards. Doesn't burn or use any oil so I don't think the cat is clogged. Will check the plenum in a minute before work. I found some headers and 1.7 rrs from summit that I'd love to look into. I've tried since I had the truck to find a MOPAR 5.2L or 5.9L performance PCM, but of course, no luck.


As far as regearing the front and rear, I've seen 3.92s, 4.10s, 4.56s for sale online for the 7.25 and 8.25" 27 spline axles in our 1st gens. BUT, regearing is EXPENSIVE. Would I be better off to find a wrecked dakota with 3.92s and just swap the entire axles over?


I put as much money into my truck as I can without skipping meals, lol.
Highly likely that would be a MUCH cheaper route.......
 
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Old 11-22-2017, 12:47 PM
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Just went out and took off the TB completely for a better view. No dirt, but a little bit of a black buildup in one spot.
 
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Old 11-22-2017, 04:15 PM
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Should be ok then.
 
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Old 11-29-2017, 08:09 PM
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I have a 96 club cab 4X4 with 318, auto, and 3.91s on 235.75 15's. When I got this truck, I was expecting at least as good of get up and go as my 92 318 club cab and my 93 318 club cab, both 2wd with 3.55s. I figured the 3.91s would be enough to compensate for the extra weight of teh4X4 parts... no it isn't... even towing, and having more miles on them, my 2 wds with less gear are peppier. this is my 5th, 1st gen Dakota, 3rd 318 in a Dakota, 3rd club cab Dakota, 1st 4wd Dakota, 1st Dakota with 3.91 gearing, and 1st OBD-II Dakota. I have no cat on this 96 any more, though the old one was busted up, I'm wondering if the (still original) muffler might be partly plugged with converter chunks.... I mean it is dependable, and rides better (stock seats but they feel the best of any of the Dakotas I have had)
I still currently own the 92 as well, I miss the 93 the most because I miss shifting the 5 speed that I transplanted into it but that one was wrecked badly. that one was both the gas mileage and "$#!t and get" champ.
I miss my old 94 reg cab shortbed 2wd with the 3.9 the least.
 
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Old 11-29-2017, 09:07 PM
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Pull the front O2 sensor, and see if it's any better.

How many miles on it?
 



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