Hey y'all, whuzup. So I replaced rear shoes, cylinders, all hardware, adjusted em good, backed up few times to 10mph/hit brakes/all brakes seem fine now! Like brand new(and i'm loving it!)
Bled all old fluid out with new fluid, did all bleeding only at the wheels. At all 4 wheels, starting at rr, then lr, rf, lf, with truck off. Someone pumping brake pedal 3-5 times, at 3/4 of pedal travel, and they all bled out perfectly. Went from a lil bubbles to solid gold color, went to next wheel till finished w all 4 wheels. It bled great.

Problem is that freakin red brake light on dash still comin on most of time. Now, there are times it cuts off, doesn't come back on for a few miles. Like till truck is cut off. But soon as truck is started, it usually always comes right back on after the cluster procedure check of all the lights in cluster(at start up).
Clue maybe?: when it's mornin, like kinda cool out, or not, but at 1st start of day theres a chance it wont come back on, does like normal. But usually, it always, inevitably, turns back on.

I checked parking brake connection wire above the brakes levers, up at top of brake, for connection, it's perfect.
Also replaced sensor in rear pumpkin.
Front pads are still nice, newish, prob 1500 miles on em.
I did put a new soft line at the rear, the one that screws into the axle part, that line with the block that has the 2 rear metal lines coming into it from cylinders, and the 1 main line from front(over tank).


I thought about the plunger switch, the 6 wire one at pedal, but it seems fine. Could it be bad, or does that even have anything to do w dash's red light.
The yellow abs light does not come on, ever. Never ever ever/it was coming on too before I changed rwal sensor at rear axle. Dorman, new, 2 weeks ago.

Fluid was blackish, not good fluid, prob been in truck for long before I bought it all, through bleeding at the only the 4 wheels. Used 2 prestones, the big yellow ones. did the replacing fluid 6 days ago.

lil grnd wire by abs stuff & master is good, no corrosion. Cleaned fender well, screwed it back in.

If bleeding with truck running, at rear, versus it NOT running, should there be fluid coming out when I crack the bleeder screw? Seems like I remember one time I had it running and went to bleed the d side rear wheel cylinder and NOTHING came out. But it was late at night and I decided to wait and bleed with a helper in truck next morning, with truck off at that point. I was using a long pole to hold pedal down so to bleed by myself. Done cars that way a LOT and works every time. I use a clear container with a clear hose to the bleeder valve, never have probs bleeding brakes, on anything, with a helper at pedal or alone.

Why is this red brake mostly ALWAYS soming on? Pressure sensor somewhere? Is that plug with the 2 lil wires that goes to master something to consider? What is it plugged into? A pressure sensor thingy? If so, can I replace that? Would that pedals plunger cause light to turn on for some reason? Ughhh! Sick of troubleshootin this freakin red brake light! Brakes work like factory new! But the light concerns me. jLike maybe I go to press the brakes one day and NOTHING! Then I die! And wont be able to leave long a** posts on here anymore! That'd really be bad!(plus wife/ kid might miss me too).

 

Sounds like the proportioning valve isn't quite centered. Might try having your helper pump up the brakes, hold pressure, while you crack open a bleeder. (start in the rear) Do that a couple time, then do one in front. See if that doesn't take care of it.

 

Will try that tomorrow. Thanks!

Crack open either rear bleeder, or both? And then only 1 in front, afterwards, or you think both? If prop is bad, how will you know. Theres regular pedal travel. Nothin going too far, I dont think.

For got to mention, when test drove after all was done(and they're working excellent now) the truck did some rear "hop, hop, hoping a couple times after about 1/2 mile or better. I had started up road after a just a few little stops at stop signs and it inclined upwards a little, when it got to 35-40 or so, it started hopping back there some, until I let off gas, then when gave gas again, hopping a bit more till letting back off gas, even after the lil incline, over top of the little upwards portion of the road it hopped a lil till letting off gas when got back up to bout 35-40. But after I stopped in a prkng lot, looked around under truck, left, it hasnt done it since.

Drove it today to work 20 miles, 20 back home/ brakes ex! But otw to work, no light AT ALL for a change. But then when leaving work, light came on immediately after it falshed off at start up! Sucked. Stayed on till I got home.

 

Either one. Doesn't matter. Just one in front. Unless you suspect more air in the system of course. if the pedal feels even remotely spongy, hit 'em all again.

 

Ive had my brake light come on at random and its just the e brake pedal sagging. I just pull the ebrake release handle while lifting on the pedal. Be sure to release the handle before you stop pulling up on the pedal. Kind of weird but it has worked for me. i usually only have to do this after ive applied the e brake.
Worth a shot...

 

Thx jlake. I know exactly what ur tlkn about. But at this point, e brake mechanism, up under the lft dash, workin perfect. Adjustment is ex now, return lever returns e brake perfect now, spent 4 hrs doing e brake other day. All is well there. It's doing right again, I'm sure it's not likely that anymore.

What i did found yesterday was when I unplug that plug that goes into the black cab box, under hood, behind rwal valve, then use test light at e brake cable's ground wire(the 1 wire ebrake has under dash, I can make the red brake light come on and off. It's an issue in that cab box I think, or the rwal box. Or both. Not the combo one, or master cylinder one, The rear anti valve. So I think I finally tracked it down to either that cab box, the rwal valve at the cab black box, or both.

What y'all think? Theres liike 5 or 6 2g Rams down there, I could go get one off of one of them and try to swap. Guess I'd have to bleed again? But only at the 4 wheels? Maybe not at combo or master, as those are before that rear anti valve? Thx.

 

ABS to me is junk especially in these trucks. I disabled mine the best I could. Does sound like the CAB controller may be bad.