Hard delayed shift
#1
03-14-2018, 09:00 AM
Hard delayed shift
I asked a tranny question a couple weeks ago on my 2001 3500 maxi which went unanswered most likely because I wasn't clear.
The first couple gears "wait" to shift until rpms feel quite a bit higher than they should be and the shift is too hard. When taking off from a light if traffic forces me to hold a constant slow speed like 25 mph and the rpms are "high" for the gear I'm in then slowing down for traffic will then cause a very hard upshift (not downshift) into the gear the van should "already" have been in.
Any info greatly appreciated.
The first couple gears "wait" to shift until rpms feel quite a bit higher than they should be and the shift is too hard. When taking off from a light if traffic forces me to hold a constant slow speed like 25 mph and the rpms are "high" for the gear I'm in then slowing down for traffic will then cause a very hard upshift (not downshift) into the gear the van should "already" have been in.
Any info greatly appreciated.
#3
03-14-2018, 01:55 PM
All I've done so far is flush and filter with no improvement in shifting. I'm half decent at DIY but no experience with transmissions to the extent I don't know what "checks" to make other than no OBD codes show. Van has 69K miles and sat for years before it was repaired enough to sell (to me). All other systems are now in very good working order. I don't want to take it blind into a shop and if I had some clue what it might be I'm better off even if I can't fix it myself.
if I take off from a stop and accelerate aggressively shifting is smooth although lower gears still seem to shift at a higher rpm than they "should".
if I take off from a stop and accelerate aggressively shifting is smooth although lower gears still seem to shift at a higher rpm than they "should".
#5
03-14-2018, 03:39 PM
#6
03-14-2018, 04:59 PM
#7
03-14-2018, 09:30 PM
Search (front band adjustment) if it shifts late 1st-2nd, won't hurt to adjust if it hasn't been done so far as you know, and it's 5-10 minute job and easy enough for most anyone to do themselves if you have a 3/4 wrench or ratchet wrench and a T-40 and 1/4 torque wrench.Plenty of room under my van, though some others may ride lower than mine.
The screw and nut are on the driver side, side of transmission just above the linkage. Only be careful, note where the threads of the screw are at beforehand and know you won't be going very much further once you've readjusted, back off the lock down nut, go slow and feel the torque wrench click while setting the screw to the 72 inch lbs... then back off the 2 7/8 full turns and retighten the 3/4 nut. Saying this most by memory so please don't trust that... do your asking the guys and reading on it first!
I almost lost my set screw into the pan because my torque wrench was bad, plus had never done this before but got it set right on the third try with a new 1/4 trq wrench.
The reason I had been searching and found the front band adjustment is because a couple of years ago I had had a real hard time/ late shift from 2nd to 3rd unless I let off the pedal. But got to where it would shift to 3rd then o/d like that, but then I'd be on an incline and it would shift right back down to 2nd at 60-65 mph with very little foot into it. I had a transmission acquaintance who knew what he was doing look at it and turns out the governor pressure sensor and solenoid were faulty and also some chaffing of the wire harness inside
I also had read about and searched about adjusting the kickdown/tv cable as it tends to stretch over time and you might have to give more push on the pedal before it will shift down down going up a grade on the highway. It's another easy adjustment to do to get slack out of the cable for a more normal and timely shift down when you need it.
The screw and nut are on the driver side, side of transmission just above the linkage. Only be careful, note where the threads of the screw are at beforehand and know you won't be going very much further once you've readjusted, back off the lock down nut, go slow and feel the torque wrench click while setting the screw to the 72 inch lbs... then back off the 2 7/8 full turns and retighten the 3/4 nut. Saying this most by memory so please don't trust that... do your asking the guys and reading on it first!
I almost lost my set screw into the pan because my torque wrench was bad, plus had never done this before but got it set right on the third try with a new 1/4 trq wrench.
The reason I had been searching and found the front band adjustment is because a couple of years ago I had had a real hard time/ late shift from 2nd to 3rd unless I let off the pedal. But got to where it would shift to 3rd then o/d like that, but then I'd be on an incline and it would shift right back down to 2nd at 60-65 mph with very little foot into it. I had a transmission acquaintance who knew what he was doing look at it and turns out the governor pressure sensor and solenoid were faulty and also some chaffing of the wire harness inside
I also had read about and searched about adjusting the kickdown/tv cable as it tends to stretch over time and you might have to give more push on the pedal before it will shift down down going up a grade on the highway. It's another easy adjustment to do to get slack out of the cable for a more normal and timely shift down when you need it.
Last edited by JFloors; 03-14-2018 at 09:32 PM.
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#9
03-15-2018, 11:27 AM
A flush is not a change because the filter does not get removed and replaced. Plus JL is known for using a one for all universal fluid. I suggest the pan come down, both bands get adjusted, then a new filter and the correct fluid be installed. If you can't do it, check with a tranny shop to see what they will charge.
#10
03-15-2018, 12:02 PM
A flush is not a change because the filter does not get removed and replaced. Plus JL is known for using a one for all universal fluid. I suggest the pan come down, both bands get adjusted, then a new filter and the correct fluid be installed. If you can't do it, check with a tranny shop to see what they will charge.