Looking at a 2005 ram
#1
03-16-2018, 07:16 AM
Join Date: Jan 2005
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Looking at a 2005 ram
Hi
might go look at a 2005 1500 regular cab short box. 130,000 miles, 5.7, 3.55 gears. No lift. 4x4, 17” stock tires.
i read through the common issues and im not too concerned about most items.
Is there anything else i should be on the watchout for?
Any common areas of the drivetrain that leak?
Is the hemi tick a death sentence?
i live in a rust state, do all 3rd gens rust around the rear wheel well?
how does the suspension components hold up in these, should i plan on doing ball joints, tie tods, control arms in the near future?
might go look at a 2005 1500 regular cab short box. 130,000 miles, 5.7, 3.55 gears. No lift. 4x4, 17” stock tires.
i read through the common issues and im not too concerned about most items.
Is there anything else i should be on the watchout for?
Any common areas of the drivetrain that leak?
Is the hemi tick a death sentence?
i live in a rust state, do all 3rd gens rust around the rear wheel well?
how does the suspension components hold up in these, should i plan on doing ball joints, tie tods, control arms in the near future?
Last edited by mopar4u; 03-16-2018 at 07:54 AM.
#2
03-16-2018, 09:16 AM
Banned
Any common areas of the drivetrain that leak?
Is the hemi tick a death sentence?
i live in a rust state, do all 3rd gens rust around the rear wheel well?
how does the suspension components hold up in these, should i plan on doing ball joints, tie tods, control arms in the near future?
Is the hemi tick a death sentence?
i live in a rust state, do all 3rd gens rust around the rear wheel well?
how does the suspension components hold up in these, should i plan on doing ball joints, tie tods, control arms in the near future?
No, they do that
If it isn't washed/rinsed or taken care of. My truck has lived in three states that are horrible for that; mine are just fine but I am fastidious about finding a way to wash it on a regular basis, even in winter.
They hold up fairly well, but at 130,000+ things will be worn; rubber doesn't last forever
#3
03-16-2018, 11:57 AM
Hi
might go look at a 2005 1500 regular cab short box. 130,000 miles, 5.7, 3.55 gears. No lift. 4x4, 17” stock tires.
i read through the common issues and im not too concerned about most items.
Is there anything else i should be on the watchout for?
Any common areas of the drivetrain that leak?
Is the hemi tick a death sentence?
i live in a rust state, do all 3rd gens rust around the rear wheel well?
how does the suspension components hold up in these, should i plan on doing ball joints, tie tods, control arms in the near future?
might go look at a 2005 1500 regular cab short box. 130,000 miles, 5.7, 3.55 gears. No lift. 4x4, 17” stock tires.
i read through the common issues and im not too concerned about most items.
Is there anything else i should be on the watchout for?
Any common areas of the drivetrain that leak?
Is the hemi tick a death sentence?
i live in a rust state, do all 3rd gens rust around the rear wheel well?
how does the suspension components hold up in these, should i plan on doing ball joints, tie tods, control arms in the near future?
Oil leaks ... the crank seals on the 5.7 eventually start to weep. Front seal is easy to change. Rear needs the transmission to come out. Change the front seal. Leave the rear and simply "manage" it by watching the oil level. I never have to top off. ... yet.
Spark plugs. Use copper plugs only. NGK 5306. They last 30-40k then need to be changed. The engine will not tell you until they are completely gone. It will run fine right up to when the tips are burnt right off the plugs. Then will start to idle rough and throw you misfire codes. There are 16 plugs in this engine.
Main engine coolant radiators are common to leak. Side tanks are plastic. The tank to core seal leaks, tanks crack, core solder cracks. The good news is the radiator is not expensive and is very easy to access and to replace.
I have yet to see a 3rd gen Ram that did not have the signature rust arc over the rear wheel wells. Many guys clean them up, rust check and fibreglass it, then install fender flares. .... There is a reason why fender flares are so common and prolific on Rams
. ... (it is not because they look cool).Overall the suspension holds up well, depending on usage of course. If you are regularly drowning the truck or beating the crap out of it then moisture and motion takes a toll. None of the ball joints are greasable. Lower ball joints will go first, wait for them to start squeaking then replace them. Sway bar links rust and snap, simple to fix. OEM shocks are a nice ride but they certainly do not last very long, put Rancho 5000 series on when it comes time. Front wheel bearings hubs are short lived compared to other trucks. The hubs are fairly priced though, not expensive. CV axles go a long time, also depending on usage of course. Drive axle u joints not had to change them yet, go a long time.
Change the transmission oil between 60-80k and it will outlast every fender and the doors on the truck.
The hemi is also long lived, if maintained and serviced (oil changes) on a reasonable frequency.
With 3.55 , the truck will fairly tall, long legged, and long lived. Good for lightweight general purpose use and improved fuel economy. However, if you will be loading it up or towing that gearing will not suit. It will be a bog dog. 3.92+ for "truck" use. 3.55 for "car" use.
225k over here and still going just as nice and strong as the day I bought it at 85k. .... other than some rock chips and rusty rear fenders of course.
Hope that helps!
Last edited by FaceDeAce; 03-16-2018 at 12:20 PM.
#4
03-16-2018, 12:20 PM
Banned
Hemi tick is simply a few broken exhaust manifold bolts. Does not affect performance at all. An annoyance only. Simple fix. Manifold heat shields burn and rust off. Replace them to ensure to save heat damage to hoses and wires under the hood.
Oil leaks ... the crank seals on the 5.7 eventually start to weep. Front seal is easy to change. Rear needs the transmission to come out. Change the front seal. Leave the rear and simply "manage" it by watching the oil level. I never have to top off. ... yet.
Spark plugs. Use copper plugs only. NGK 5306. They last 30-40k then need to be changed. The engine will not tell you until they are completely gone. It will run fine right up to when the tips are burnt right off the plugs. Then will start to idle rough and throw you misfire codes. There are 16 plugs in this engine.
Main engine coolant radiators are common to leak. Side tanks are plastic. The tank to core seal leaks, tanks crack, core solder cracks. The good news is the radiator is not expensive and is very easy to access and to replace.
I have yet to see a 3rd gen Ram that did not have the signature rust arc over the rear wheel wells. Many guys clean them up, rust check and fibreglass it, then install fender flares. .... There is a reason why fender flares are so common and prolific on Rams. ... (it is not because they look cool).
Overall the suspension holds up well, depending on usage of course. If you are regularly drowning the truck or beating the crap out of it then moisture and motion takes a toll. None of the ball joints are greasable. Lower ball joints will go first, wait for them to start squeaking then replace them. Swayer links rust and snap, simple to fix. OEM shocks are a nice ride but they certainly do not last very long, put Rancho 5000 series on when it comes time. Front wheel bearings hubs are short lived compared to other trucks. The hubs are fairly priced though, not expensive. CV axles go a long time, also depending on usage of course. Drive axle u joints and CV's, not had to change them yet, go a long time.
Change the transmission oil between 60-80k and it will outlast every fender and the doors on the truck.
The hemi is also long lived, if maintained and serviced (oil changes) on a reasonable frequency. Though as noted, it will eventually weep at the crank.
225k over here and still going just as nice and strong as the day I bought it at 85k. .... other than some rock chips and rusty rear fenders of course.
Oil leaks ... the crank seals on the 5.7 eventually start to weep. Front seal is easy to change. Rear needs the transmission to come out. Change the front seal. Leave the rear and simply "manage" it by watching the oil level. I never have to top off. ... yet.
Spark plugs. Use copper plugs only. NGK 5306. They last 30-40k then need to be changed. The engine will not tell you until they are completely gone. It will run fine right up to when the tips are burnt right off the plugs. Then will start to idle rough and throw you misfire codes. There are 16 plugs in this engine.
Main engine coolant radiators are common to leak. Side tanks are plastic. The tank to core seal leaks, tanks crack, core solder cracks. The good news is the radiator is not expensive and is very easy to access and to replace.
I have yet to see a 3rd gen Ram that did not have the signature rust arc over the rear wheel wells. Many guys clean them up, rust check and fibreglass it, then install fender flares. .... There is a reason why fender flares are so common and prolific on Rams
. ... (it is not because they look cool).Overall the suspension holds up well, depending on usage of course. If you are regularly drowning the truck or beating the crap out of it then moisture and motion takes a toll. None of the ball joints are greasable. Lower ball joints will go first, wait for them to start squeaking then replace them. Swayer links rust and snap, simple to fix. OEM shocks are a nice ride but they certainly do not last very long, put Rancho 5000 series on when it comes time. Front wheel bearings hubs are short lived compared to other trucks. The hubs are fairly priced though, not expensive. CV axles go a long time, also depending on usage of course. Drive axle u joints and CV's, not had to change them yet, go a long time.
Change the transmission oil between 60-80k and it will outlast every fender and the doors on the truck.
The hemi is also long lived, if maintained and serviced (oil changes) on a reasonable frequency. Though as noted, it will eventually weep at the crank.
225k over here and still going just as nice and strong as the day I bought it at 85k. .... other than some rock chips and rusty rear fenders of course.
- Define eventually. I have 3 of them with over 150,000 miles and that hasn't happened.
- Definitely on the third gens
- Bull****. Still have my original fenders with the exception of the left rear (which is 8yrs old as it is) where some NY ******* drove right into my bed. Right rear is original and I have no bed or rocker rust (be more than happy to provide pics as proof). If you take care of and rinse it like it needs to be during the winter you won't have that problem.
- True
- IF you leave the engine stock. If you ramp the power up nothing in the universe will save that RFE
- Also true except for the crank weep.
#6
03-17-2018, 11:42 PM
Inspect where the brake lines (steel) run from master down firewall to the fitting T's on the frame rail..Had one rust completely thru a few years ago. ..Was on my way to work and while stopping in traffic my brake pedal went all way to floor. Barely made it to my works parking lot. Lost most of forward brake fluid..Had truck towed home from there for repair. Get this truck had only around 140, XXX miles. This is on my current 2004 ram 1500 4x4 btw.
Last edited by darndodge; 03-17-2018 at 11:45 PM. Reason: Identity truck
