Just got this truck. It runs and rides well. However, if I "get on it", the rpms will race up and feels like truck goes into a quasi-neutral until it bucks/shifts. Or, as the rpms race up, if I let off the gas it will shift. Driving normally, it seems to shift properly and through the gears.

Reading a lot of the forums, videos, etc everyone seems to say its the governor solenoid/pressure spring/pressure sensor, and to also adjust both bands on the transmission. So, I figured I would buy a master solenoid kit that included the springs, tcc, shift, pressure/governor solenoids, sensor, from cascade and Ill get the one with the upgraded borg warner solenoid, and adjust both bands.

Looking/reading/watching/contemplating the procedure, some say that once you get the linkages off, and the electrical connector recessed down a little, and remove the valve body (in which the piston and spring(s) will fall out, haha), then comes the part where one either disconnects the shift rod (e-clip) from the valve body, or, pulls the valve body/rod out of the transmission (with the transmission in neutral). On this 2nd method: some people may have had issues putting everything back, like not getting it out of park, or not in the right gear, etc--and I admit, I am a little concerned pulling that rod out to encounter issues later on when trying to put it back in.

So, I just wanted to ask people here who have done this (not just the governor solenoid because you can do that with VB still attached), but have replaced all the solenoids/tcc/sensor. I'm wondering if I should just try to keep the rod in there, and just remove the clip--I want easy way as possible w/ respect to having to put everything back in/on (piston/spring), etc.

 

Good plan.

Some folks have been able to do all the solenoids without dropping the valve body. It's tricky routing some of the wiring, but, doable.... but, if you are changing parts above it... it's gotta come out anyway. You can download a service manual for your truck from here. All the procedures in there, including some helpful pics. However, ignore the factory specs for band adjustment, torque 'em down to 72 inch pounds, and then back them both of two turns. That's it.

Something else to consider...... the 'hold the gear until the motor blows up' at wide open throttle, is kinda standard for these transmissions....... some will do it, some won't. Even after changing the electronics...... We havin' fun yet?

Welcome to DF!

 

Oh, wow. I *was* going to follow the torque specs exactly for the band adjustments. It was interesting to see that different years of the same transmission had anything from 2, 2 7/8 (front), or even up to 4 turns on the rear band, but you are saying just back off 2 turns on both the front and rear--something tells me you know what you are talking about and I should take your advice. Is it that those original torque specs somehow don't account for wear and tear, or something?

I think I'm going to go the disconnect the rod from the valve body, and keep the rod in transmission case option--just to minimize any issues. I think I will use a pick tool (somewhere I read someone used that to pull the e-clip) and maybe a pair of hemostats to reinstall (or long needle-nose). I've never worked on a dodge before (mostly chevys, toyotas), but I like how things seemed more simplified in terms of construction (not the tranny) seems like better access for working on them. Hopefully it will shift better. I got that manual earlier, thank you--have been reading it to help with overall process.I will need to wait until weather gets better before doing the job. Also plan on doing a mini tune up on it (oil, trans fluid (obviously), plugs, etc)..I think I saw a leak around power steering lines, so I'll need to check that out. Oh yea, fun fun fun (but better than paying a shop--and the pride to go along with it, lol.).

 

Following, as I have the same problem with my 01 5.2 4x4 auto doesn’t wanna shift at wide open throttle after punching it on the highway.

 

Actually, that's from MonteC, our one-time resident trans expert. He runs a shop on the east coast somewhere, and deals with these transmissions every day. I learned a LOT from reading his posts. Dodge kinda compromised on some of the settings, which is typical of the manufacturers.... (and why tuners can get a fair bit of power from the motor, just by changing the programming.....)

You can try changing the electronics, but, that's no guarantee that it will change anything.

 

Did you happen to change the distributor at all recently?

 

No I haven't done any work to it yet. But it starts, revs/drives (minus the shifting issue),rides, and idles smooth. I plan on doing an oil change (despite the sticker on the last oil change from prev. owner saying 94K miles) at 91k, the oil looks a little on the dark side, so I was planning on changing the oil and oil/air filters when I do the transmission work. I've been watching/reading videos/posts/tutorials on the job, basically going over it over and over in my head (even dreaming about it a little--I know weird),so I've basically done the job mentally--then I just gotta actually do it. Might pull a plug(s) to see if need to do those--maybe/prob. cap and rotor at least as distributor goes. I'm getting everything listed/ together as far as parts needing to order/pick up, fluid, additional tools, etc. Originally I figured I would get by just buying 7 quarts of ATF+4. but some people have said they ended up putting upwards of 16+/- quarts of tranny fluid when dropping the valve-body. So, I'll need to update the list to accommodate that. Looks like walmart is the cheapest for atf+4 at around $4.50 or so a quart. I don't plan on jacking up the truck, but driving it on ramps--hopefully will have enough additional clearance to work under it "comfortably". I am trying to go the e-clip method so I don't have to deal with the parking rod. I think with long pliers/pick and maybe magnet I'll be able to reinstall it. I'll put the truck in 1st/low gear so I will presumably have best/only access to get to the clip--and when putting everything back on, should that lever switch change gears, to make sure to put it back into low gear (so rod pulls furthest out/last dedent) when getting the parking rod reconnected. Then "hopefully" everything will match back up with the gear shift and positioning of the linkage when I remove/reinstall them. I want to take my time doing the solenoid work (and not on my back), so that's why I'm going the VB remove vs work on it while it's still connected. I figured the e-clip method vs parking rod would be a good compromise with what I want to accomplish (my sanity, my energy, my back, my sanity...)..lol--And work on it on a bench/table. Who knows what might be sitting in the pan or broken inside. I'm actually looking forward to doing this, should be fun. I might splurge a little and get one of those magnetic dish trays to help keep the valve body bolts organized--all these years I've never used them.

 

I'm about to order the parts, and I went ahead and went under the truck to verify access, etc. I'll put the truck on ramps, but getting at the linkage (and band adjustment outside) is going to be a challenge. I wanted to ask any particular techniques needed to remove the linkage off of the rod control assembly (Can't remember the actual term) that protrudes at the top of the case? I'll also need to remove the solenoid case electrical connector which is up top but further back to allow the valve body to drop once those bolts (valve body) are loosened.

The item circled in red--how can I remove that? Does it just pop off via some leverage? And pops back on?

The items circled in orange--the bolts--if I loosen/remove those bolts, I should be able to remove the linkage from the rod control assembly?

Thank you.

 

It should just pop up out of there. May be a bit reluctant.

 

Just got the parts ordered:

Cascade 46RE Master Solenoid Service Kit 2000+

EPAuto 1/4-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench, 20 ~ 200 in./lb. ( i only had a 3/8 or 1/2 not a 1/4).

ATF+4 auto tranny fluid - later @ walmart

harbor freight 11-inch-long-reach-needlenose-pliers-with-straight-jaws

hook pic tool harbor freight

And, I'll be using jack stands and not the ramp. For some reason I didn't like the idea of putting the front wheels on the ramps and rear wheels on stands if the truck rolled forward. I might need the rear wheels off the ground if the parking rod gives me any issues and I need to turn it a little to get it locked in. I just had a set of little 2 1/4 ton craftsmen which I'm not going to trust too much on a taller truck (vs a car), so I went ahead and ordered a set of 4 6 ton harbor freight jack stands. So everything is ordered except the trans fluid--I'll get that at the very end. I'm committed to the job and any aggravations that will go with it...haha. I'll keep you updated on my progress.