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Shimming brake rotors

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Old 05-21-2018, 10:46 AM
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Default Shimming brake rotors

Have a pulse when braking on my 05 1500 5.7.

I was thinking of taking a dial indicator to the rotors and find the high and low spots. Then apply a thin steel .00x” shim over a stud between the rotor and hub where needed to reduce the indicator runout.

Would doing this be bad ju ju?
 
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Old 05-21-2018, 11:17 AM
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What?? No!! How would that even work?? The rotor isn't designed to be flexible that way. If you have a pulsing when braking then you most likely have a warped rotor, only two fixes for that, turning it (if there is enough metal left) or replacement. Usually if it warps there's no point in turning it because it'll be thinner and warp again.
 
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Old 05-21-2018, 11:31 AM
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that has got to be hands-down, the craziest thing I ever heard!
 
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Old 05-21-2018, 01:17 PM
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Old 05-21-2018, 10:59 PM
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No...those are to recenter your rotors if you have them turned and they aren't centered (in relation to the caliper) like they used to be. Those are the same thickness throughout, they don't vary to compensate for warped rotors...
You should probably not work on your own vehicle...
 

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Old 05-22-2018, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by HemiLonestar
No...those are to recenter your rotors if you have them turned and they aren't centered (in relation to the caliper) like they used to be. Those are the same thickness throughout, they don't vary to compensate for warped rotors...
You should probably not work on your own vehicle...
you dont need to be so damn abrasive. Ive worked on my own cars for 20+ years. Ive worked on snowmobiles, atv’s, lawnmowers, snowblowers for 20+ years. I have people bring their mechanical items to me for repair because they trust me. Im simply trying to learn about a technique i ran across.

the description on rockato says “will correct .00x” runout”.

I also found this video how to use them,

these do not appear to just center the rotor as you say and they are not the same thickness.
 
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Old 05-22-2018, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by mopar4u


you dont need to be so damn abrasive. Ive worked on my own cars for 20+ years. Ive worked on snowmobiles, atv’s, lawnmowers, snowblowers for 20+ years. I have people bring their mechanical items to me for repair because they trust me. Im simply trying to learn about a technique i ran across.

the description on rockato says “will correct .00x” runout”.

I also found this video how to use them, https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=I5Mj_G5LIz8&t=7s

these do not appear to just center the rotor as you say and they are not the same thickness.
Just because someone makes them, does NOT imply they are a 'good idea™"

Get your rotors turned, or replace them. That is the CORRECT way to address the issue.

Besides, getting your rotors turned will actually cost you LESS than those shims, plus shipping. It's highly likely even NEW rotors (from a local source) would be cheaper.
 
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Old 05-22-2018, 10:09 AM
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It seems like shimming the brake rotors would change the alignment of the wheel. I'd recommend new rotors.
I've never liked having rotors turned because it reduces the amount of heat that the rotors can absorb.
 
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Old 05-22-2018, 11:24 AM
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Originally Posted by mopar4u


you dont need to be so damn abrasive. Ive worked on my own cars for 20+ years. Ive worked on snowmobiles, atv’s, lawnmowers, snowblowers for 20+ years. I have people bring their mechanical items to me for repair because they trust me. Im simply trying to learn about a technique i ran across.

the description on rockato says “will correct .00x” runout”.

I also found this video how to use them, https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=I5Mj_G5LIz8&t=7s

these do not appear to just center the rotor as you say and they are not the same thickness.
1. I will be however the f@ck I want
2. Just because you've worked on your own things for 20+ years doesn't mean you actually know what you're doing; if that were the case then every shade tree mechanic would be an expert
3. Based on this thread I feel bad for those people who bring you things
 
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Old 05-22-2018, 09:30 PM
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That video is to compensate for hub runout, not a warped rotor. You try to compensate for a warped rotor, you’re going to have big problems. There you go, 2 of us agree, based on your posts, and your words, that you should leave critical systems like brakes to the professional. Work on all the lawnmowers and snowblowers you want to, you won’t kill anyone doing that!
 

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