Quickest way to find TDC?....and couple oil pump questions.
#1
Quickest way to find TDC?....and couple oil pump questions.
Have a 98' 5.2L.....
So I need to change my oil pump, first time doing it. I've seen someone say that If you put engine at TDC, that you can drop the oil pan without having to lift the engine. Does this also mean that I won't have to remove the exhaust like manual says?
I was gonna find TDC by rotating the motor until I felt air from compression stroke blowing my finger while holding it at Cyl #1, then match up the marks......but then realized I can't get my finger in far enough because of those metal tubes around the spark plugs.
So what's the next easiest way to find TDC, and are there any other tips and tricks I should know for this job?
Also noticed the new gasket is super thick and made of rubber and metal. Is sealant still required for this type of gasket?
Thanks!!
So I need to change my oil pump, first time doing it. I've seen someone say that If you put engine at TDC, that you can drop the oil pan without having to lift the engine. Does this also mean that I won't have to remove the exhaust like manual says?
I was gonna find TDC by rotating the motor until I felt air from compression stroke blowing my finger while holding it at Cyl #1, then match up the marks......but then realized I can't get my finger in far enough because of those metal tubes around the spark plugs.
So what's the next easiest way to find TDC, and are there any other tips and tricks I should know for this job?
Also noticed the new gasket is super thick and made of rubber and metal. Is sealant still required for this type of gasket?
Thanks!!
#2
#3
Like has been stated, TDC doesn't matter when changing just the oil pump - in the old 360 motor days, it was typical for the oil pump drive to be replaced with the oil pump, since the tip of the oil pump drive would sheer off and required the oil pump drive to be replaced. If you are only replacing the oil pump, you will not be removing the distributor in order to replace the oil pump drive, so you will be fine.
#4
I thought that the crank had to be at tdc for cyl#1, or else the oil pan will hit part of the crank, preventing it from sliding past the frame.....
Why does the book advise us to remove exhaust and lift the engine?
Seems unnecessary.
#5
The manual will always give you unnecessary steps, as it gives you the "right" way to do it. Us because mechanics found ways around some of the steps
#6
Thanks for the advice y'all. I ended up getting everything right, and went to take off the oil pan, and it seems to be hitting that metal plate around the transmission when I try to drop it. I also happen to have a slow transmission leak coming from the bottom of that plate actually, and I'm curious as to what that plate is guarding, and is it cool to remove that plate to get more clearance even though there is a slow transmission fluid leak? Here's a pic....
#7
Thanks for the advice y'all. I ended up getting everything right, and went to take off the oil pan, and it seems to be hitting that metal plate around the transmission when I try to drop it. I also happen to have a slow transmission leak coming from the bottom of that plate actually, and I'm curious as to what that plate is guarding, and is it cool to remove that plate to get more clearance even though there is a slow transmission fluid leak? Here's a pic....
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#8
#10
Another question.....I have a new Melling pump and pickup tube, but the pickup tube seems like a really snug fit when screwed into the pump. It only screws in about 1/4 inch into the pump, then stops, still leaving many threads exposed. I read that some of these have to be welded in place....
Is it normal to have threads exposed, and does it always have up be welded or can I use loctite or something else?
Is it normal to have threads exposed, and does it always have up be welded or can I use loctite or something else?