So i bought an 03 r/t from a guy who i no and he sed its mint absolutely mint (should have been first sign to run) so i drove it home and in first month had to replace all barring rear lateral links rebuilt calipers new fron control arms basically everything and then a transmission the clutch just everything so it went good for a bit i raced a frind ( at an abandoned airport ) at 6500 rpm the car ost all power entered limp mode shut off restarted and fine but p0016 p0344 p0340 p0399 **** went down hill from there so i found out he did timming kit from freeking ebay so i replaced with oem kit put a new rebuilt professionally built top end ported n all new cam new cam sensor and magnet new crank sensor (not mopar tho) new coil packs 3 to be exact new plugs new wires rebuilt exaust new high flow cat 2 1/2 inch pipe front to back new computer (pcm) checked signals from wire harness checked n replaced grounds like i have done everything by the book tone ring is solid n not damaged im 4000$ into this f...ing thing and still owe 500 on it got light off drove like grama for an hour to shop for etest passed left parking lot like a pissed off teenager hit 4500 rpm it started bucking hit 5000 rpm n bam p0339 sed screw it n punched it more it took of like a 3 year old seeing freddy cougar in a dream if i clear code i can drive under 4000 rpm no problem above that it bucks n code comes back i am all outa ideas and ready to burn this thing someone please help me i dont no what to do anymore and need it working my son has bws n part of it is he is prone to childhood cancer this is the car we take to appointments 4 a week or if he gets sick to get to hospital as its quick n fuel efficient (normally)

 

I see you don't have any replies yet, so I'll see if I can get things started.
Good idea to have scanned for & posted up all found trouble code clue Numbers.
Go here & look up each trouble code, what it means & what to check for & let us know what you find. https://www.obd-codes.com/p03-codes.

Seeing as how you seem to like doing your own trouble shooting & turning your own wrenches, if you have, or can borrow, or come by the inexpensive ELM scan tool & running a diagnostic software on the viewing device of your choice, have it take a look at the vehicle cam & crank sensors PID output to the computer while you do a wire wiggle test all the way to the computer, to see if you can induce the problem while it idles. The gurus over on the TCCA forum say this vendor & ELM's they sell are reliable.
He'll stand behind the product if you have trouble & will help if you have problems setting it up on your viewing device.
I bought my WiFi ELM about 5 years ago to help me diagnose a sudden ABS problem that my trouble shoot had worked me into a dead end & my Actron CP9145 couldn't access the ABS controller to query it for trouble code clues, but the ELM could & quickly pointed me in the right direction to get things put right, so I could get the vehicle state inspection completed.
The ELM also found some body codes I didn't know I had & they helped me find & fix a passenger side power window problem that suddenly showed up. So my ELM more than paid for itself with its first use & sure saved my remaining few hairs, as I was down to the last few pulling them out trying to figure out the ABS & power window problems!!!! lol

Some beginning thoughts for consideration, let us know what you find.

 

lol always turn my own wrenches i wont let anyone work on my stuff i have been a mechanic for 15years now but any how i have replaced my pcm wire harness new timing kit mopar ckp sensor new cam sensor cam magnet new rebuilt head everything is new and getting proper voltage all grounds are new like i dont get it tone ring is solid but still intermittent signal to ckp sensor and random misfire keeps coming up every now and then p0016 let it warm up it drives fine up till 4000rpm after that the rpm needle drops and the engin stutters and tries to stop but keeps going if you say to hell with it and punch it it stuters till 5000 rpm at that point somthing cicks and the stuter goes away and it goes like a bullet until you shut it off then starts all over again but everything has been replaced i just dont get it

 

The crankshaft position sensor (CKP) and Camshaft position sensor (CMP) work in harmony to control the spark/fuel delivery and timing. They both consist of a reluctor, or tone, ring which passes over a magnetic sensor, which generates a voltage, indicating position.

The crankshaft sensor is part of the primary ignition system and functions as the "trigger". It detects the position of the crankshaft relays that information on to the PCM or the ignition module (depending on the vehicle) to control spark timing. The Camshaft position sensor detects the position of the camshafts and relays the information to the PCM. The PCM uses the CMP signal to identify the beginning of the injector sequence. What ties these two shafts and their sensors together is the timing belt or chain. The cam and crank should be precisely timed together. If the PCM detects that the Crank and Cam signals are out of time by a specific number of degrees, this P0016 code will set.

Symptoms of a P0016 will or may include:
* Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) illumination
* The engine may run but with reduced performance
* The engine may crank but not start
* The engine may exhibit a rattle near the harmonic balancer indicating the tone ring is damaged
* The engine may start and run, but poorly

Causes may include:
* Timing chain stretched, or timing belt skipped a tooth due to wear
* Misalignment of timing belt/chain
* Tone ring on crankshaft slipped/broken
* Tone ring on camshaft slipped/broken
* Bad crank sensor
* Bad cam sensor
* Damaged wiring to crank/cam sensor
* Timing belt/chain tensioner damaged

Possible Solutions:
1. First, visually inspect the cam and crank sensors and their harnesses for damage. If you notice broken/frayed wires, repair and recheck.
2. If you have access to a scope, check the cam and crank patterns. If a pattern is missing, suspect a bad sensor or a slipping tone ring. Remove the cam gear and the crankshaft harmonic balancer and inspect the tone rings for proper alignment and make sure they're not loose or damaged or that they haven't sheared the key that aligns them. If they are properly installed, replace the sensor.
3. If the signal appears normal, then check the timing chain/belt for proper alignment. If it's misaligned, check for a damaged tensioner that may have allowed the chain/belt to slip a tooth or several teeth. Also check that the belt/chain isn't stretched. Repair and recheck.

 

The inexpensive ELM scan tool & running the right diagnostic software on the viewing device of your choice, can monitor the cam & crank sensors & the fuel injectors pulses in several formats like oscilloscope mode, to determine which, or if all are acting out, so can help focus a trouble shoot.