Helloooo… Sooo, I have this 10 pin male connector with 9 pins in use just kinda hanging out of the center console, lol (beside/under drink holders, driver's side) I can't find the blasted female for it. I removed my entire dash(except underside of steering column), I can NOT find the plug, man. I've searched endlessly for the right diagram to no avail. And the obvious problem... it won't start. Full power, no crank. Every single feature works; windows, stereo, heater etc. Tried park, neutral. I don't see how it could be anything except ignition/starter, but the problem is I don't know if that clip was plugged in for sure, seems it would have to be, but not sure. I had a bad battery to start it all, now with a new battery it behaves exactly the same. So maybe I just need a reset? But with that connector hanging I figure that's gotto come before trying a reset.

ANYONE? ANYone? anyone??..... Much appreciation for my hero

* wires in pin connector are 6 green, black, blue , pink

 

You need to consult a wiring diagram, and see how the starting circuit is supposed to work, from there, it will be easier to determine why it doesn't. A factory service manual is your friend here.

 

Let's start with the basics. Has this truck every started and ran since you've had it? Assuming it has, what have you don't since then and now that it won't start? Were you working in the area of the center console? Is the connector hanging out of the console like maybe it was used for some auxiliary equipment (CB radio, DVD player, aftermarket alarm/remote starter, etc.)? Does it appear to be a factory connector and harness, or is it a bit more on the "commercial" grade side? Does everything power down like normal when you turn the key to the Start position, or is there no change from the Run position?

-Rod

 

I was downloading it at the same time as discovering this forum, that's how I found it. Haven't got into yet. I was hoping someone recognized the description of that connector and wire colors. Or where all the connectors are located. There is only about 10 of them. It's weird, I know I just need to plug that in and it's going to start, but where??? aaarrrgggg,lol

 

I've been driving it for 6 yrs with zero mechanical issue. Everything is factory, there is no aftermarket equipment on/in it. I did nothing before it wouldn't start. Parked it the night before, jumped in in the morning and it was dead key. Remote start engages but then stops and the panel says, Remote Start Disabled - System Fault. The bad battery turned out to be a short, idk if that could affect anything. I'm still in the same spot... there has to be a corresponding female, I know I'm just going to plug it in and it will start. In one diagram it is labelled,or part of it is, the harness I mean, Window Circuit Breaker and 3 arrows for 219 220 309. Windows work.

 

If there truly was a short circuit that damaged a battery, then there will be a blown fuse somewhere. Was it actually a short circuit, or just a constant drain? What did you change to fix the short? Or do you mean there was an issue with the battery itself? Do you have access to a high end scan tool that can read out the diagnostic code for the remote start system?

I'm still a bit confused by your original description of the connector in question. Did you only find it disconnected because you have take the center console apart, or were you able to see it even with the interior all put together? If you only found it because you took the console apart, and the truck ran prior to the battery issue, the mate, if it has one, could not be far away. Keep in mind that there are likely to be several unmated connections as wiring harnesses are often somewhat universal and often will include connectors for optional equipment. If there's no mate nearby there's a very real chance that connector is for an option your truck does not have. Maybe it is there for vehicles that have the Special Service Package option and they get used to power extra 2-way radio equipment, etc. Is it really clean like it was recently connected to something, or is it a bit dusty suggesting it's been disconnected for quite some time?

-Rod

 

The only module that I can think of is the RF module. So there may not be a female connector, just a module to plug it into

 

I wasn't thinking of a module but I am scanning every square inch including equipment etc. tx for posting

 

Arrrggg, second time I'm writing this, site signed me out, and also it doesn't send me notifications of posts which I have selected in settings. lol, anyway...

Battery itself is shorted. I took it to where I bought it 36 months ago, with no receipt. He put it on the machine said, "yeah, it has a short.", turned around grabbed a new one off the shelf and said, "here ya go.". It had a 42 mnth replace warranty. So that was great...... It was hanging before I removed the dash, that's why I removed it, to look for the female. I have an OBDII 1.5v scanner but am just using free software, buying a pro version was an option on the table. What I did get so far, I didn't see anything relevant. It seems to require the vehicle be running to do it's thing, that's why I haven't bought the pro app.

Your second part was brilliant! I should have thought of inspecting it for usage. However, I am undecided, lol. The inside walls are dirty but pins and backboard are spotless, though recessed. I've attached a photo. You give me confidence it is superfluous and now irrelevant. I was convinced it had a mate, I thought I was fully loaded but I don't have the equip you mentioned. Because no, it can't be too far away, you're right. In fact, it can only reach so many places, and there is nothing there. And again, everything works(I forgot to check nav)....

So, if I assume the connector is moot, then I am back to square 1, but with a good battery. So tomorrow first, Ima try a reset again. Maybe the bad battery prevented that the first time. If it doesn't work I will check all fuses again, but I assume it would be the starter in that case. But seems unlikely a battery and starter go on the same day, or is it? Could a shorted battery kill other components? Only other thing I can think of is the FOBIK locking the system from bad programming. But it's been working fine over a year. OR my starter has been going slowly over the year and actually is responsible for the behavior I was blaming on my earlier key problems, then worked good for summer and the winter did her in. Doesn't matter anyway, it's either good or it's not. (last year all 4 tires went flat separately weeks apart in about a 3-4 month period, lol. ) I'll let you know what happens.

Continuing thanks,

Tim

 

As I recall, your ignition switch just sends a signal, via a roundabout route, to the PCM, telling it to trip the starter relay. (which is in the TIPM, and I don't have a clue if it is replaceable on its own, or not.) To see if the problem is the starter itself, grab a friend, stick 'em in the drivers seat. Crawl under the truck, and put a power probe on the wire to the solenoid on the starter. (and ground the other lead.....) Have friend turn key. If you see voltage at the solenoid with the key turned, (should probably be able to hear a relay click as well.) then the starter is probably bad, if you don't...... well, then life gets more interesting.