Hello again guys!

Some good news! I finally secured enough funding and have started ordering parts for my 1998 Dodge RAM 1500 2WD/RWD with 190K miles. I like doing my homework so I wanted to create a thread detailing some of the steps and procedures I will be doing and have it critiqued by the pro's before I start.

I created a thread awhile ago with some things I wanted to do but have since changed a few variables. I have setup my project in two stages. The first stage in engine work, the second stage is Suspension. The first stage is what I wanted to talk about today.

As it stands, my truck is leaking from the valve covers. It is also leaking oil from the oil pan gasket. Pretty sure the intake plenum is sucking some oil in as well. My idea is to work from top to bottom (let me know if thats not a good idea) Seeing as I am going to be in the area of the valve covers and the entire plenum area dissembled to replace the gaskets I will be doing a Cap/rotor/wires replacement. Water pump and inlet tube, bypass hose. Fuel sending unit (gas gauge not working) Thermostat housing and thermostat with new gasket.

I am curious, since I am already there, would it be a good idea to replace the head gaskets? They are all original and going on what... 20 years old now? Is this recommended? I plan on tackling that all in a week. Giving myself time.. to take my time. If so.. are there any tricks of the trade? Any pointers, things to be careful of and look out for? After I have that taken care of that I wanted to tackle the oil pan gasket as I will need an oil change anyway. I was not able to find any decent videos on the oil pan gaskets and this is where I wanted to confirm some things with you guys:

1. My Truck is 2WD Automatic. There is some conflicting information on whether or not I have to lift my engine with a engine hoist to get the pan out. From what I have read (from you amazing guys) the only thing I should have to do is unbolt the transmission brace to the engine, starter, and a dust cover that goes over the transmission. I should be able to wiggle it out after that correct? I have read that the new gasket should be coated a little in engine assembly lube for a better seal and a little dab of black RTV in each corner. I am going with ALL Fel-PRO gaskets.
2. I am in the area of the oil pump if I am not mistaken. Its a 20 year old oil pump. Good idea to replace it and the oil pump screen? Can I re-use the intermediate shaft?
3. Since I am in the market for the oil pan gasket and oil pump, going one step further... The rear main seal. This is also original. 190K miles on the truck. Since I am in the area would you recommend me replacing this? If so I have seen some conflicting items with this seal, some parts show as a two part seal. Others are a one part seal. Fel-Pro sells both and I am not sure which one I should get. I was told that the inner groves of the cap need to have some black RTV and if the seal is a two part seal, the area where the two seal ends meet needs to have this in between it: instead of engine oil.
4. I am creating myself a step by step list which will include torque ratings for all the new bolts etc. I want to take my time and go slow. I am in no hurry. With that in mind if I get down to the oil pan and drain all the oil in the system, am I now on a timer to get it repaired because the engine has no oil in it? Do I have to worry about time at this point?

All advice is appreciated!

 

You don't have to worry about the engine having no oil unless you start it. If I was you I would go with the Sharp rockers which you will you a little more power. I would also flush the block and heater core while you have everything apart. Replacing the oil pump and rear main seal is a good preventative maintenance engine you are there. For the rear main I always coat them in a light coat of rtv. I personally wouldn't charge the head gasket unless I was upgrading the heads or had a leak.
Tricks:
Use compressed air to blow the engine off before you start to disassemble the intake. Also keep the bracket on the throttle body as the plastic retainers for the wires tend to break.

What are you doing to the plenum? Aluminum plate or shaving the bolts?

 

​​​​​​​Hey!
Okay I will leave the head gaskets alone. I am just afraid that they will blow and I have to do the valve covers etc all over again on top of risking cracks in the head. Hopefully not.

I think you were the one that recommended hughesengines upgraded plenum plate. I went with that. I will make sure to give the engine bay a good clean before I start pulling everything apart. So its okay to coat the entire rear main seal with black RTV or just the side that goes into the machined slot?

 

The only place RTV goes is where the two halves meet. Just a little dab. Coat the sealing part of the seal (part that seals on the crank) with engine assembly lube, especially if it's gonna be a while before you start the engine back up. Make sure you prime your new oil pump before installing it. before you start it, unplug the fuel pump and prime the engine again, be a good idea to leave the valve covers off so you know you're getting oil to the top end. Pay very special attention to how the rear main goes in, put it in backwards, you'll be doing it again. Heads usually only crack if they been run hot, with little to no coolant, or cold water/coolant added to a hot engine. I've seen the second one happen. If you're going fel pro, just read and follow the directions with the rear main. You can reuse the pump drive shaft, no need to change it unless its twisted, bent. You might want to look into changing the timing chain and gears, and replacing the front main also, and the timing cover gasket. You'll need a harmonic balancer puller, buy or rent from local parts store. Also includes removing water pump Wich your doing anyways. Go with a double roller, last longer, handle more abuse.

 

I personally coat the whole thing with a thin layer, but dip not forget to lube it as was mentioned
I replaced my plenum with an aluminum plate from Ebay

 

Hello rebeltaz83! Thank you very much for your input. I have a few noob questions if you would entertain them. I think I found a video on priming an oil pump and engine so I will do some further reviewing on that, thank you for the advice. So leave the valve covers off before installing the new gaskets, watch them while I prime the engine/pump and look for oil flow at the top end? Yea I plan on taking pictures of everything just for reference when it comes to the rear seal.. I do not want to do it again. Little bit of RTV at the meet point, got it. Is black RTV okay? After your reply I did a little more looking, so my question was answered why one main seal was two parts and one was one part. The single part is the front main seal... how difficult is that to replace? Is it in the same area as the rear? Probably a dumb question. I did not know I needed a harmonic balancer puller for the water pump.. is that the same as a water pump wrench? Do you have an example of a double roller? Which one do you think I should go with? https://www.rockauto.com/en/tools/co...wrench,1000992

 

Only need to pull the damper if you are going to pull the timing cover. Balancer puller is a separate issue from the water pump wrench. I just used a large adjustable wrench on the fan, whack it with a hammer a couple times to get it to break loose, then it comes right off. It's heavy, and you need to pull the shroud to get it out away from the engine.

When you pull the damper, front main seal is right there. It actually seals to the damper.

 

Hey HeyYou!!!
How have you been? Is the front main seal the same as the timing cover front seal? Like in the photo below? Or am I completely off? The "Front main seal" looks exactly like the "Timing cover front seal" That's where the damper is I think.

 

That's correct

 

Awesome! Well I think I am about ready then. My parts come in on Tuesday and Friday. I suppose my last question would be do you know if I would have to lift my engine up on the 2WD to get the oil pan out or the braces, trans cover and starter should be enough to get it out? And lastly as far as the main rear seal goes, the one half that is up in the crackshaft area, I saw a video of a guy carefully using a tap to bang it out and then some needle nose pliers to get it out the rest of the way. Safe to say the installation is the same, carefully push it back in until both ends are flush, just being careful not to put it in backwards or shave it on the edges with a little bit of engine assembly on the part that touches the crank.