No control arm bushings
#11
i ran into the same problem when i done my lift. because i was going to compleatly overhaul the workings of the truck at the same time, when i took apart i removed everthing, encluding those! needless to say i was sol when i started looking for those replacements. advance listes those but i bought to deffernt sets and could never press them into my control arms. what i ended up doing is i bought 1 foot of round stock polyurathane from prothatne specialties(with the outer diameter the same size as the largest bushing, inner diameter a 1/4 inch bigger than the smallest bolt) the cost was about $60. then i went to the hardware store found 1/4" sleeves to fit all the bolts. took old bushing, bolts, control arms, and round stock to machine shop had them made. then i drilled and tapped me a grease fitting in each control arm so it will never have to be done again! all in all i prolly got $150 in my control arm bushing, but i beleive it was well worth it. those were the only one i couldnt buy, so now the truck has a full poly bushing set under it. it handles like a race car with 33" tires! and they look great!
#12
no joy
having something custom would be great my biggest problem is the truck isn't my toy it's my daily driver and i have to be able to do service on it in the 2 days a week when i'm off if i could find a used lca for a reasonable price or some old bushings to get dimensions from would be ideal but taking my truck apart and having it sit for god knows how long while parts are shipped and modified is not an option unfortunatly maybe if the stang was street legal i could drive her but that's not an option either LOL
#13
Once possibility is remove your control arm and get some calipers and take your measurements. Then re-install it. You probably wouldn't need to separate the ball joints, just release the tension in the torsion bar and remove the 2 bolts to the lower control arm. Then you can measure the bushing.
Some people in similar situations just get an aluminum round stock machined down to fit into the control arm (Press fit) and drill/boar out the center to fit the bolt.
Some people in similar situations just get an aluminum round stock machined down to fit into the control arm (Press fit) and drill/boar out the center to fit the bolt.
#15
I ended up changing all bushings (upper and lower) to energy suspension and I have to say the truck feels alot better, but the downside to this is that they squeak really loud. It varies a little due to temperature but overall squeaks. I would like to switch back to rubber, but of course no availability for lowers. I also saw the guy who used 2wd drive lowers and that worked?? There was a guy on another Dakota site who used the lowers for a 2wd on a 98 Durango 4wd and he said it fit perfectly.
Here is the link:
http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...ad.php?t=63378
What do you guys think?
I wouldn't mind fabbing something but I don't have a lot of time for the truck to be down
Here is the link:
http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...ad.php?t=63378
What do you guys think?
I wouldn't mind fabbing something but I don't have a lot of time for the truck to be down
#16
#17
The part number is 5.3139G. Here is a link to one website that has them, but there are so many other sites.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...E1253139G.html
Best place to get them from is www.energysuspensionparts.com IMO
Just keep in mind that these will squeak but the truck feels awesome and they will last longer than rubber.
Here is the link to the post where a guy used these 2wd lower bushings on a 4wd Durango
http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/...ad.php?t=63378
Also, does anybody here know anybody that has 97 Lower Control Arm Assy for cheap. I want a spare set to work on and modify to fit my needs for my upcoming build?????
Last edited by DakotaGuy97; 04-04-2011 at 06:39 PM.
#18
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Devon Farber (04-25-2020)
#19
#20
I have a 90 4x4, and the photos of the 97 4x4 upper control arm look to be very much the same.
After I burned the rubber out of the shells, I cautiously used an air hammer/chisel to drive it out while the control arm was in a bench vise.
I used an old blunt chisel against the flange of the bushing shell to push it out.
I had the chisel positioned where the flange meets the actual control arm. I used a blunt chisel to ensure I didn't damage the control arm itself.
For really rusted ones: I have used a chisel to bend the shell inwards and partially cut the shell, which helped loosen the shell.
Then I drove it out with a old blunt chisel.
This is of course, if you don't care if you destroy the shells.