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Brake and ABS Light help!!!!
#81
Now the problem is worse haha, Now the ABS light is always on, and the speedometer doesn't work, also I checked the old sensor and it is working fine! Maybe the problem was not the sensor, when I was moving the wires the light went on, now the light is still on and the speedometer doesn't work, I've checked and the wires are not worn out =S, now I am seriously worried, what can I do?
Another detail, the failure is still there, even if I disconnect the negative battery terminal and place the key on start position for 15-30 seconds
Another detail, the failure is still there, even if I disconnect the negative battery terminal and place the key on start position for 15-30 seconds
is there any water in the plug?
any bare wire showing through the harness?
is the plug in tight?
is the plug on the rear axle sensor in tight?
any bare wires going to the back ?
any loose grounds?
start going over the wire harness looking for bare wire (worn insulation ect) and loose, missing, or bad grounds. (you could also look into replacing the sensor for the brake fluid level, maybe it went bad, but i have never seen this)
#82
I checked the old sensor with an ohm meter, and there is not water in the plug, what is weird is that when I moved the wires to check were was the failure, the speedo moved up and down, but then I reached a point in which the ABS light went on, and the speedo stopped working, I checked for worn out wires, but there are not worn out wires!! maybe the conection from the plug and the wires is wrong, this because I checked and realized that the failure was from the rear harness or of the sensor, maybe I've reached the point in which I can't do anything and the dealer must have the work haha.
I'll continue checking, you've been of great help, if anything appears, I'll put it here, thanks.
I'll continue checking, you've been of great help, if anything appears, I'll put it here, thanks.
#83
#84
Well this looks like the correct thread to post this in.
My 1998 Dodge Durango 5.9L 4x4 has the brake light and abs light come on at the same time while driving. Sometimes it comes on when applying the brake, where as other times it comes on when just crusing on the gas. Once the light comes on it stays on, until the truck is shut off. When I restart the vehicle sometimes the lights do not come on until later.
Anyhow, after reading this thread, I tested the sensors with my ohm meter the other day it was sitting in the driveway and both front sensors read about 1k, and the rear sensor read about 1800 ohms. So I presume they are ok or can one of the sensors still be flakey?
If the sensors are ok, is that all there is to check and if so, does that mean it is the ABS module is faulty?
My 1998 Dodge Durango 5.9L 4x4 has the brake light and abs light come on at the same time while driving. Sometimes it comes on when applying the brake, where as other times it comes on when just crusing on the gas. Once the light comes on it stays on, until the truck is shut off. When I restart the vehicle sometimes the lights do not come on until later.
Anyhow, after reading this thread, I tested the sensors with my ohm meter the other day it was sitting in the driveway and both front sensors read about 1k, and the rear sensor read about 1800 ohms. So I presume they are ok or can one of the sensors still be flakey?
If the sensors are ok, is that all there is to check and if so, does that mean it is the ABS module is faulty?
#86
The reservoir is topped off to just above the fill line. Lights still come on even when just crusing on the gas pedal. Note: Lights are not necessarily on when I first start the car, most of the time they light sometime while driving.
#87
most likely a sensor?
If the ABS light only comes on when the vehicle is moving, I'd guess that it's most likely a sensor. The computer is going to be comparing data from the speed sensor (in the tranny), the two front wheels, and the rear axle. If something is out of whack, with no brakes applied, it should show up as a fault.
My ABS light was on as soon as the start-up diagnostics had completed.
I presume that you have made sure that all sensors are properly seated, and that all wire connections are tight.
A d-i-y plug-in OBD-II code reader won't show you the brake system problem codes, so don't bother going to AutoZone for a free check. The dealer will probably charge about $75 to hook up to their system and get a diagnosis. If you know a decent repair shop that has the full Dodge software for their system, they might do it for less.
- roger
My ABS light was on as soon as the start-up diagnostics had completed.
I presume that you have made sure that all sensors are properly seated, and that all wire connections are tight.
A d-i-y plug-in OBD-II code reader won't show you the brake system problem codes, so don't bother going to AutoZone for a free check. The dealer will probably charge about $75 to hook up to their system and get a diagnosis. If you know a decent repair shop that has the full Dodge software for their system, they might do it for less.
- roger
#88
You should have a start up diagnostic (ABS light on) when it starts and should go off after a few seconds. If you do not have this you should replace your module with a 4 wheel ABS module. It is a small box by the master cylinder that simply plugs in to a electrical harness.
There are 2 different systems,
1. 2 wheel ABS
2. 4 wheel ABS (which is actually 3 wheel) and this is what you have (as you said it) if you have ABS sensors on the front wheel bearings.
There are 2 different systems,
1. 2 wheel ABS
2. 4 wheel ABS (which is actually 3 wheel) and this is what you have (as you said it) if you have ABS sensors on the front wheel bearings.
#89
errrr 3 wheel? i understand that there are only 3 sensors in the system in the 4 wheel case, but i would think that both back wheels would have to lock in order to set off the rear wheel abs????? (i could be completely off base as i just got out of 3 hours of extremely boring classes today, and i am more than kinda out of it)
#90
That would be correct.
3 wheel ABS (which is called 4 wheel ABS) both rear wheels would have to lock to engage the ABS system as the differential would still spin, even in an limited slip or open rear differential gearing. However if only 1 front wheel locked up it would still engage the ABS. In other words if either of the front wheels or rear both wheel locked up then the system would engage.
On a 2 wheel ABS, there are sensors in the Transmission or Transfer Case that serve as the front wheel ABS sensors for the ABS system.
I guess I don't quite understand your statement?
3 wheel ABS (which is called 4 wheel ABS) both rear wheels would have to lock to engage the ABS system as the differential would still spin, even in an limited slip or open rear differential gearing. However if only 1 front wheel locked up it would still engage the ABS. In other words if either of the front wheels or rear both wheel locked up then the system would engage.
On a 2 wheel ABS, there are sensors in the Transmission or Transfer Case that serve as the front wheel ABS sensors for the ABS system.
I guess I don't quite understand your statement?