Yes, if there is a CAM circuit malfunction, you will not get a spark. It sounds as the code is valid. There are only three things in a "CAM Circuit"; the sensor, the computer, or the wire. It could be the sensor he put in was bad, he put in a wrong sensor (the plug for the CAM and crank sensor are the same...I think the crank plug comes off at a 90 deg angle and the CAM is straight off though), broke/shorted a wire or smoked the PCM (Computer). One last thought, the crank sensor is tied in for the starting circuit, and although the PCM has a separate code, I think it may be on the same test circuit...I will need to look (there could be an erroneous code issue).

Before any assumptions are made, what engine do you have? What exactly were/are the codes (the first time, and the new code)?

Kurt

 

Thank you for your reply. It was definitely the camshaft position sensor. The code we're getting is 11 55 and when we put the old sensor back in the code changes to 12 55. I have a 3.5 engine and it's an automatic if that helps.

 

OK, I assume that the 11 & 12 (with 55) are key codes AKA MIL codes (obtained via the key trick and the check engine light flashing, not a OBD II reader). The 11 means a bad crank sensor (under the car on the passenger side) and a 12 is one of those you can ignore. The 55 means end of codes, and is just a way to let you know if there are no codes, that it is on line sensing no codes.

If you get an 11 with the new sensor and a 12 with the old, then the old is ok and the new is faulty. This being the case, there are a number of faults that are not detected correctly by the computer that will cause the engine not to start.

First I need to know, what lead to the replacement of the sensor if you only had a 12 & 55? Are you sure of your reply? Yes the engine size is important and now I know.

!st thing to try is leave the sensor in that gives no fault (the 12 /55 one). Unplug the MAP sensor and try to crank it. If ok, replace it.

If not check for fuel pressure at the rail (you may need to get a fuel pressure gauge for 15$ at a part store eventually, but for now just ensure there is pressure at the rail Schrader valve).

Lets go from there...let me know,

Kurt

PS I hope you have a happy mother's day tomorow!

 

My dad originally used a diagnostic tool that told him the camshaft position sensor was bad. That's why he bought a new one and tried replacing it. Then the same diagnostic tool told him he was getting a camshaft position sensor circuit malfunction.

The 11 and 12 codes were done with the key in the ignition by someone else when my dad wasn't there with his little diagnostic tool. So I'm not sure if that means we're all messed up now or what.

When it originally stopped on the highway nothing at all would happen when we tried to start it. Since my dad replaced the camshaft position sensor the car does actually turn over but it doesn't catch. So something is different, just not different enough.

I have passed on your advice about the MAP sensor and the fuel pressure and we're going to try that tomorrow. Thank you so much for your help. I really appreciate how clear and detailed it is.

 

You’re welcome.

There seems to be a bit of confusion. I’m not sure if this confusion is just a typo, or what has happened. You said an 11 (which is a crank shaft sensor) but said a CAM sensor was changed. Can you give the original P code that was obtained via the scan tool? AS I mentioned before, the CAM & crank work hand in hand for the spark timing but are different sensors, and in different locations. If you can also get me the part number that was installed and the location where it was installed (top of engine or bottom of engine is good enough), I will have a clearer picture of what is going on.

I will tell you this… if you have an 11 now (via the MIL) the car w/n start and an 11 alone will not give you a “check engine light.” If the crank sensor has not been changed, this is an easy fix (although you will need to jack the car to get under where the sensor is).

A word of caution, when removing the electrical connector, use care not to break the plug lock or your dad will have to get one from the dealer and change it. Due to heat oil and vibration in the area, the lock may break very easily. If it does, let me know and I can help with the part number etc (mine broke and I had to do this very thing!). If it does break, make sure to change it…you don’t want this plug to come loose while you are on the road (remember you need to jack the car to get to it).

Kurt


P.S. I was just re-reading you original post and I’m pretty sure you can rule out a MAP sensor at this time because you mentioned “no spark.” A sticking MAP sensor will cause the engine to “get out of time”, but you would still have a spark. The fuel pressure is still relevant though. If the ASD circuit is at fault, you would have no fuel or spark.

 

my 95 intrepid stopped running on the highway also. my wife was doing 75 mph when it shut down, guess i should have stopped here first. spent the last 2 days trying to find the solution to no avail. i know ill be back for more good advice.

thanks for all the great advice
hoping it didnt fry the pcm

chester hill

 

I found the problem. My dakota was blowing the auto shut down fuse. traced red/white wires from black relay box and found many frayed places and repaired. It turned out to be the red/white wire burnt buy the egr tube on the passenger side down from rear of valve. Taped it and started finally. took me 3 fuses blown. If keeps blowing the asd fuse, the red/white wire is grounded somewhere. keep looking.

 

i have a 96 neon,

when i pull into a parking spot, my car just shuts off and at times i will not know. the radio is still going and eveything seems to be on. the wheel locks up so i cant turn usually how i know when it turns off. i turn it back over and starts up usually totally fine other times it chugs.

what could the cause be? costless told me it could be fuel filter. but richies says carbon problem.

 

I have owned two Intrepids for over ten years. They are great cars 90% of the sudden engine stoppages are to do with the relay switches under the hood make sure relay compartment is dry and clean

 

I have a 1995 Intrepid and it will randomly die out while driving. I have noticed that if you turn the key off then on again that it will not restart unless you hear the fuel pump prime. I have already replaced the fuel pump and assorted fuses and relays and it still does it. I am thinking a wire or sensor is acting up, as it seems to do it more if its raining or humid out. Where should I look next? I am fairly good at working on cars but this has me at a loss...