Yes, i know, rehashed over and over.

We have a pair of MA121XQ's from the camaro that we haven't used, with matching 200x2 amp (Lanzar Vibe 418, bridged). Im not gonna pay $350 for a friggin box that only holds 10's.

Does anybody know the depth between the bottom of the jump seat, and the floor pan, when the tool tray is removed?

I'm thinking to put the 2 12's in my truck, and put my single 10 + it's amp in mom's car.

I know I have to go around the driveshaft hump, but does anybody have pictures of the floor pan underneath the jump seat, so i know whether I should do down-firing or up-firing, or measurements so I know if the subs will even fit?

Basically, I want to know 1) if there is ~8" of space to be had under the seats, 2) if I can do up, down, or angle fire (i'm predicting angle-fire), and how/if the jump seat itself will need to be modified to fit everything under it. Amp would be mounted in the rear flor between the passenger seat and the box, with a supported board over it so it can be stepped on or used as a foot rest if the back seat actually has to be used. Hence I dont want the back seat to be sloped up, I want it to stay as close to flat as possible, without having to move the mounts for the hinge (although IIRC it's only 4 bolts, and not that hard to move??)

 

okay so I found these-

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2323...88946057aYiQtl

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2153...88946057JJvUMR

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2041...88946057BlexgW

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2258...88946057CbrgYK

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2479...88946057brzgbV

This is exactly what I'm wanting to do. Except he did a FG bottom, and I don't know how to FG. But based on the box I have in it now, I can probably get the box to be pretty darn snug. Also, I'm going to put the amp in the floorboard, so the space i lose by having the squared corners, i gain by not having the amp indentions.

And now that I think about it, having the amp on the driver side makes more sense. I think the hardest part would be pulling out the 8 guage wire and running the 4 guage, right now I have it coming in through the unused gromet in the driver's door and around the ECU. Not sure if 4 guage would make that turn.

The jack I can build a padded box for and have that in the floor of the passenger side, since that would be lower than the amp. And to be evil to would-be theives, I can have the amp platform and cover, the jack box, and the subwoofer box be all screwed and interconnected together with square-headed bolts and painted jet-black to match the interior. To lift a ~80 pound odd-shaped box out of a dakota would be at least time consuming (or impossible), and square-headed bolts would complicate getting anything unbolted.

only difference, I think that guy used 10's that are probably shallow. I have deep 12's, so mine will probably stick out 3" to the front and be at a bit of an angle to get the magnets to fit around everything. Maybe a 10 degree incline, so the magnets just clear the front panel and the floor. Since down-firing is clearly out of the question, I can use some 1/4" (or 3/4, if height allows) and make a faux top, and basically make it a 4th order bandpass.

I'm thinking something like this-

The subs are 12.5" outer diameter, with an 11" mounting hole. They are 6" deep and the magnet is 5.5" in diameter. Theres no real advantage to doing an angled top versus a flat top- the difference is a little over 1/4 of an inch or so. Angling the subs actually makes the critical point taller, and the box stick out more. So the best choice in my mind is to make the box have a flat top, with the faux top supplying 1/2 inch of space between the decks- just enough for the sub to reach max excursion and not touch. All 4 sides of the faux will be sealed except for a 6" wide opening, so the box is effectively a 4th order bandpass with a .75x.5x12" port, .25 cu ft front enclosure, and 3 cu ft rear enclosure, more or less. This yields a 100hz tuning frequency, and when mapped against the sealed-only design, the bandpass looses SPL (9 decibels) at the tuning frequency (100hz), but is 4 decibels higher in SPL at 30 hz. Since I'll be running the crossover at 100hz, I don't think this makes for a big problem, and the true reading should be somewhere in the middle.

Now that theory is out of the way, it's on to the CAD design.

 

So I went and measured, and 6" is wayyy too thick.

We have:
(1) Bazooka EL1204 (250W RMS)
(2) MA Audio MA121XQ (300W RMS)
(1 pair) Blaupunkt 6x9 triaxl's, not sure RMS power handling.
(1) 5.5 cu ft hatchback/trunk box ported and tuned to 18hz (custom built)
(1) Lanzar Vibe 218 (100Wx2 or 200Wx1 at 4 ohms)
(1) Lanzar Vibe 418 (100Wx4 or 200Wx2 at 4 ohms)
(1) 1.0 Farad Capacitor with all hardware included

Considering I designed the system, Dad built it, and it went in mom's car, I hate to sell all of it. But none of it will fit in the new firebird nor my truck, and dad's truck is his work truck. The only thing I can think of is to sell the 2 amps and the 6x9's, and use that money to buy house amplifier(s) for the big box 12's and save the bazooka as a spare.

Otherwise I guess sell all of it together (since it is one big kit) for $700, or make it work in stealth in the dakota.