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a/c evaporator replacement

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  #61  
Old 06-05-2009, 06:48 PM
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is this the same on a 2000 ram 4x4 quad cab?
 
  #62  
Old 06-05-2009, 07:00 PM
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The procedure is the same.
 
  #63  
Old 06-11-2009, 08:26 PM
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I have to repalce my A/C evaporator in my 2002 ram 2500 diesel. Can anyone tell me the procedure for replacing it? Is that all I should replace while I am in there?
 
  #64  
Old 07-01-2009, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by davmelrach
I do not have any pics but trust me you wont need 'em. This was a first time evap replacement for me and it went great. The comment about the heater hoses is right on too.... Mine were a b@&$ to get off and I had to end up just cutting them. It was well worth it just to getsome new hoses instead of fighting with them, wasting time. As far as I know this job will be the same for 95-01 Rams. Again, just print the instructions.... I made sure they were accurate.
I have an 01 - 2500 diesel Ram. Fixn to do the same as you did. is there any way to see if the evap. coil is leaking before you start. I do not see any dye anywhere else under hood. Will these instructions be the same?This is our only vehicle and it will be down for a while hence I'm disabled.I think I may need to go to parts and get a coil before I start.
thanks
 

Last edited by cgp; 07-01-2009 at 10:45 AM. Reason: forgot about email notification
  #65  
Old 07-01-2009, 04:46 PM
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You can check in the 2nd gen Diesel section, but I don't see why the procedure wouldn't be the same. And as far as it being the CORE if you don't see any die under the hood, that's the problem. (the core) The only way to know for sure is to take it to an ac shop or own one of these or similar.



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  #66  
Old 07-08-2009, 08:43 AM
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When evacuating the a/c (vacuum), is that done with engine running and a/c on?
 
  #67  
Old 07-08-2009, 05:11 PM
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No. You need a pump and gauges.
 
  #68  
Old 07-09-2009, 07:26 AM
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I have been using the haborfreight tools for my a/c work. Stuff seems to work pretty good so far. I've worked on 3 cars now with the tools.

A/C Manifold Gauge Set :
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92649

Has worked great, This set does give me a little problem getting on the low side nipple for some reason. but has worked great on other dodges and fords. Really need to fight to get it on there.

Air Vacuum Pump with R134A and R12 Connectors :
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96677

I dont have this one, The one I picked up was $11 and it was in a metal blue case and only list R134 on it. Very happy with its performance, but I will tell you, it do eat some compressed air. FSM on my ford escort said to pull a vac for about 1 hour on the system. My 60gallon tank seem to run almost non stop.

These 2 tools make life a lot better and the prices on them are not bad for the couple of times I needed to use them so far.
 
  #69  
Old 07-10-2009, 02:39 PM
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Just a little tidbit I want to share when Recharging your system:
I just recently spent the last 2 weeks trying to fine tune my Baby Hulk A/C after replacing a valve stem in the Low-Side port. I have found that when Vacuuming and ESPECIALLY Recharging with R134 the best environment to do this is the absolute HOTTEST environment you can create. Yes the HOTTEST - when the A/C system is running it builds pressure and that pressure is affected by the ambient temp, therefore do it when it is the HOTTEST ambient temp you can stand/create and you will be sure to (1) not OVERFILL with R134, and (2) remove future possibilities of False diagnosis such as Hi-Pressure Cut-out switch being bad when it could only be that the outside ambient temp is very Hot and that wasnt taken into account when refilling. If you did like me and filled/recharged your system when it was much cooler, therefore all the molecules involved in the system (compressor, hoses, condensor, evap, etc) weren't expanded to their full capacity. I spent a lot of time researching this - I'm no HVAC tech, tho I could hold my own after spending lots of hours on the Dodge forum and UTube and I just today avoided replacing my Hi-Pressure cut-out switch by doing a shadetree test in 91+ degree weather today, under stop-n-go driving conditions. My HPCO switch has been tripping a lot this week (90+ degree weather and getting hotter). Turns out, I had too much R134 in my system (which I filled when the ambient temp was in the low 70's weeks ago) and found out this week as the temp has been in the steady 90's and even 100's here in Nashville, that my system was building up too much pressure. Remedy - (for me that is) - got it hot as possible (driving for minimum 30 mins) in 90+ degree weather, until the system shut itself off (tested the hi-pressure switch by using jumper wire), took it home, let it idle (20 mins) to engine temp of 213 degrees (simulating traffic jam in New York City), running A/C, check pressure, shut it down, removed some of the R134 until I felt comfortable (system holds about 36 ounces) I probably have about 30-32 to allow for super hot day heat expansion. System now has run constanlty and hasn't shut down in the hot weather yet - just like its suppose to. Now mind you, the only gauge I have is a generic one for refilling (so use a manifold set if available), but I know MY system cuz I have been the only one to maintain it. We are close as Butter-n-Bread - I HIGHLY recommend refilling/charging your system in the HOTTEST weather/environment you can stand/create, and avoid almost spending money on misdiagnosis like me
 
  #70  
Old 07-10-2009, 04:14 PM
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Where did you guys get your parts? A/C evaporator/heater core and accumulator? Looking for the cheapest cost. I'm low on funds.
thanks guys
 


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