If you knew what the gear was (size, pitch etc), you could find it on mcmaster or grainger I am sure.

 

well how about you share with us what the actual part was?

Like a part number? Or who to contact for help....? etc...

 

2guys1garage.com

 

You know you can just buy these off ebay right?

 

I found it on ebay as well. I ordered directly. The shaft w/gear was $50 delivered.

 

I posted a thread a couple of weeks ago about this, but since this is my original thread, I'll update here. I broke down and just ordered and entirely new seat track to fix my problem. That means I have an entire seat track with 2 of the 3 motors that work perfectly fine, if anybody needs it to scrounge for parts. Make me an offer on it and be willing to pay for ups shipping and its yours. I listed in classifieds but have had no takers. To clarify, the part that doesn't work is the rear up and down adjustment. The motor buzzes when the switch is engaged, but the seat doesn't move. So, if you are having problems with either of the other two, this could be a cheap fix for you.

 

is there any way to mannually adjust the seat to where you want it? I would like for it to be always functional but at the very least I would like to get the seat to where I want it. The front is broke on mine as well. The motor still goes but im guessing its a stripped gear as mentioned earlyier.
From what I have seen there really isnt a way to fix it yourself so is there a way i can at least manually adjust the seat?

 

Trade the seat track out for a manual seat track. Or crack for the $400 replacement, or find the parts and fix yourself.

 

I have an 06 Ram 2500 crew cab. The driver's side power seat's up/down feature failed. Motor ran, but no movement. Did some research; bought a brass gear via Ebay (



Brass Gear for Seat Motor Jeep Grand Cherokee / Chrysler ...); did the installation; worked perfectly. Here are some details.
Had to take the seat out of truck. Tricky job. Four main bolts -- back two were really tight; take out first section of middle console (lift cup holder; unsnap 4wd boot; 3-4 screws in plastic frame; unsnap plastic frame -- this was needed to get to one nut under the front of the console/ middle seat. I used a 1/2 inch ratcheting box wrench; nut was really tight. Two more nuts under rear of console/middle seat. I used different length sockets and 3/8 drive handle to loosen and free nuts.
Pried up console/middle seat and pulled driver's seat toward the door. Tilted driver's seat up (inside the cab) to see all of the wiring and connectors; freed all connectors and pulled cable restraints with a long crocked needle nose pliers so that I wouldn't break the plastic inserts. Check the location of the bad motor by testing switches before separating connectors. You will hear the motor and see that the worm drive does not turn.
Carefully removed seat out by front door.
Had seat upside down in my garage (on a Workmate -- you need a convenient work surface). The bad motor was to the front of the seat held in place with a roll pin and a press pin. Used a pin punch on the roll pin and pushed it toward the seat track as far as it would go - it bottomed out. Used a cold chisel as a wedge around the head of the press pin to back it out - that came out easier than expected.
Took out motor and worm drive together and followed the instructions provided by the fellow who shipped the brass gear. I used a cold chisel to fracture and remove the old plastic gear on an anvil without damaging or bending the shaft. I ground down the gear shaft per his instructions on a wheel grinder spinning the shaft by hand and constantly checked its size to the brass gear - very carefully -- a little at a time -- my grinder has rest where is could control access to the wheel face. I got the shaft down to a size where the gear would slide on without being loose on the shaft. Probably took 20 minutes; was careful not to overheat the shaft. (The shaft doesn't need to be perfectly round - just reasonably round, not off center and snug to the shaft. I used half of the motor housing to hold all of the parts and establish the location for the drilling process. Used a drill press to drill a hole through the brass gear and shaft with the provided drill bit. Tapped in miniature roll pin provided after I had the two washers in place on the shaft side. Cleaned the housing and liberally re-greased the new gear and washers with the provided grease tube. Reassembled motor housing with washers and shaft stop.
Put motor and worm drive back in seat. I used a large side cutting plier and pry bar to grip roll pin and pry it back into place through the motor housing. Worm gear outer housing (which I re-greased) can be turned later to align the holes for the press pin. One side has flutes that match the press pin and I put it back to match the original installation. I used channel lock pliers to start the press pin and a hammer and a large metal wedge on the far side to drive the press pin flush without bending anything.
Put the seat back in the cab with the front propped so that I could reconnect all of the wiring and cable restraints. Then carefully walked the seat back into position so that all of the bolt holes and console/middle seat bolts (studs) were aligned. Then put back all bolts and nuts and tightened things down. Re-installed plastic console around 4wd shifter with cut holder.
Gear worked perfectly. (BTW- the plastic motor gear that turns the brass gear was not damaged at all.) Seat goes up and down in the back.
Biggest problems -- getting the bolts and nuts loose and removing the wiring harness without damage. Trickiest problems -- getting the motor and worm gear loose and ultimately back in place. Where to be patient and take a lot of time -- removing old plastic gear and grinding down the shaft for new gear and arranging parts on shaft (gear goes on in one direction) before drilling gear for miniature roll pin.
Hope this helps. It appears to me that Dodge put the front seats in as an assembly and didn't think about how hard it might be to remove one seat at at a time. The engineering designers need to work in a garage before they design trucks.

 

Can you please email me need help turkeyhunterjoe24@gmail.com