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- Dodge Ram 2002-2008: How to Install HID Headlights
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Got *HID* Problems? Check in here...
#831
#833
Bottom line is this, if you don't have a headlight with a filament inside it (working), the PCM/TIPM cannot/will not detect a bulb which in turn, turns on the Lamp Out to notify you and disables that circuit. If you use a HID which has no filament because it is filled with gas, you need a load resistor to provide the resistance needed for the PCM/TIPM so it will not disable the circuit and turn on the Lamp Out.
Capacitors do not nor ever will provide resistance. They are high energy storage devices that charge and discharge hundreds of times per second. This is why they are not recommended over resistors.
#834
ok, so ive skimmed/seached and didnt find the answer.
truck is an 2004.5 ram 2500 ( CTD if it maters)
55w HIDS headlights, with NO high beam. why no high beam you ask? becasue it is also a day time running light since in canada most vehicles have DRLs. personally i HATE the look of them so, i cut the wires so they dont work. the DRLs are threw the high beam circuit but a lower voltage.
currenly using a relay setup for the lights. ( only has one resistor in it) and getting power to trigger relay on the drivers side, so the pass. side stock headlight plug is unhooked.
what can i do to get rid of the lamp out light?
do i need to worry about the light being on? i tested the plug on the high beam side and it seems to pulse with 12vish going to it.. will it constantly do that till i shut the truck off?
if you need any clarification just let me know..
Derek
truck is an 2004.5 ram 2500 ( CTD if it maters)
55w HIDS headlights, with NO high beam. why no high beam you ask? becasue it is also a day time running light since in canada most vehicles have DRLs. personally i HATE the look of them so, i cut the wires so they dont work. the DRLs are threw the high beam circuit but a lower voltage.
currenly using a relay setup for the lights. ( only has one resistor in it) and getting power to trigger relay on the drivers side, so the pass. side stock headlight plug is unhooked.
what can i do to get rid of the lamp out light?
do i need to worry about the light being on? i tested the plug on the high beam side and it seems to pulse with 12vish going to it.. will it constantly do that till i shut the truck off?
if you need any clarification just let me know..
Derek
#835
#836
*Note* This thread is reserved for HID issue's ONLY. If you don't have a problem or a solution, please don't post.
PLEASE READ!
Chrysler uses Canbus for the headlight system. HID conversion kits are well known for their flicker/strobe and Lampout light problems when used on Canbus equip'd vehicles. These problems vary from one manufacturer to the next.
There are ways to eliminate both of these cases.
They include:
1.) Relay harness (most sellers can provide these with their kits only if you ask). The relay harnesses will eliminate the strobing effect in most cases. I suggest everyone use a relay harness with resistors.
2.) Resistors (Quality 50w..6ohm can be purchased online for pretty cheap.HERE.). These turn off the Lamp out illumination bulb for guys using a relay harness, and store no codes of High Resistance in the computer(06+ guys) which may cause to the circuit to be disabled after a while(no lights at all). Resistors are used on EACH lowbeam wire and EACH Highbeam wire because the driverside and passengerside are on independent circuits(for safety reasons) You need a total of FOUR resistors to get the job done. Resistors get hooked to power feed on one end and get ground on the other.
3.) Capacitors aka Cancellors. These are premade plug-in units that eliminate the flicker/strobing for plug'n'play applications(No relay harness used). I advise against not using the set-up of Plug'n'Pay and cancellor kits due to the massive spike in electrical current on start-up(Inrush current). Capacitors charge up very fast and will draw more current than your switch and circuit is capable of supplying. This rush of charge is actually what tricks the pcm into thinking there is a good bulb drawing current on the other end. This problem will likely be prevelant overtime as it will begin to wear down the contacts of switches and any contact point.
*Fogs are not canbus on any Ram 2008-older.
*You still should use a relay harness with the fogs even though they don't flicker/strobe when installing a pure Plug'n'Play kit. HID technology draws signiciant amount of current upon start up to heat up the bulb. The Inrush current can be up over 15A on some of these kits and cause popped fuses or circuits to be electronically shut down by the tipm. Just because HID lights use Less power(35w) and draw less current at operating temperatures, doesn't mean they are safe for the electrical system which isn't designed for it. The High inrush spikes slowly wear down electrical contact points. This includes the headlight switch, the Instrument cluster, the fuse panl or 06-08+ TIPM($$) module. Put the HID's that shouldn't be directly plugged in along with the capacitors that draw lots of current and you could have one big mess on your hands creating electrical trouble. I'm just sayin.... They'll directly plug in and work like a charm, but for how long? I'd say it depends on the kit and how many times you turn the lights on/off?
Using a Relay harness avoids any hard strains on any of the factory components. Everything functions as it should and componenets will last much longer.
Make this list of items to get:
4-50w 6ohm Resistors (they're all over Ebay)
1-Relay harness (Make sure this comes with your kit)
All Dodge Ram 2002+ have canbus system for their Headlights, therefore, the headlight circuit will need to be corrected. All Dodge Rams 2002-2008 DO NOT have canbus for the foglights.
PLEASE ask all of your questions in here if they have not already been answered. PLEASE use QUOTATIONS for answering anyones questions.
Please read weedahoe's post to follow.
PLEASE READ!
Chrysler uses Canbus for the headlight system. HID conversion kits are well known for their flicker/strobe and Lampout light problems when used on Canbus equip'd vehicles. These problems vary from one manufacturer to the next.
There are ways to eliminate both of these cases.
They include:
1.) Relay harness (most sellers can provide these with their kits only if you ask). The relay harnesses will eliminate the strobing effect in most cases. I suggest everyone use a relay harness with resistors.
2.) Resistors (Quality 50w..6ohm can be purchased online for pretty cheap.HERE.). These turn off the Lamp out illumination bulb for guys using a relay harness, and store no codes of High Resistance in the computer(06+ guys) which may cause to the circuit to be disabled after a while(no lights at all). Resistors are used on EACH lowbeam wire and EACH Highbeam wire because the driverside and passengerside are on independent circuits(for safety reasons) You need a total of FOUR resistors to get the job done. Resistors get hooked to power feed on one end and get ground on the other.
3.) Capacitors aka Cancellors. These are premade plug-in units that eliminate the flicker/strobing for plug'n'play applications(No relay harness used). I advise against not using the set-up of Plug'n'Pay and cancellor kits due to the massive spike in electrical current on start-up(Inrush current). Capacitors charge up very fast and will draw more current than your switch and circuit is capable of supplying. This rush of charge is actually what tricks the pcm into thinking there is a good bulb drawing current on the other end. This problem will likely be prevelant overtime as it will begin to wear down the contacts of switches and any contact point.
*Fogs are not canbus on any Ram 2008-older.
*You still should use a relay harness with the fogs even though they don't flicker/strobe when installing a pure Plug'n'Play kit. HID technology draws signiciant amount of current upon start up to heat up the bulb. The Inrush current can be up over 15A on some of these kits and cause popped fuses or circuits to be electronically shut down by the tipm. Just because HID lights use Less power(35w) and draw less current at operating temperatures, doesn't mean they are safe for the electrical system which isn't designed for it. The High inrush spikes slowly wear down electrical contact points. This includes the headlight switch, the Instrument cluster, the fuse panl or 06-08+ TIPM($$) module. Put the HID's that shouldn't be directly plugged in along with the capacitors that draw lots of current and you could have one big mess on your hands creating electrical trouble. I'm just sayin.... They'll directly plug in and work like a charm, but for how long? I'd say it depends on the kit and how many times you turn the lights on/off?
Using a Relay harness avoids any hard strains on any of the factory components. Everything functions as it should and componenets will last much longer.
Make this list of items to get:
4-50w 6ohm Resistors (they're all over Ebay)
1-Relay harness (Make sure this comes with your kit)
All Dodge Ram 2002+ have canbus system for their Headlights, therefore, the headlight circuit will need to be corrected. All Dodge Rams 2002-2008 DO NOT have canbus for the foglights.
PLEASE ask all of your questions in here if they have not already been answered. PLEASE use QUOTATIONS for answering anyones questions.
Please read weedahoe's post to follow.
#837
#838
OK so after much confusion about 1 headlight being out (tried replacing it already and did nothign). The truck was in the shop for AC work and I had them look at it. They said its something wrong with the BCM and it was a dealer only service. Ugh. So now I figure might as well jump to HID. I was looking at theretrofitsources kits to replace the projectors in Spyder headlights. Anyone familiar?
http://www.carid.com/2007-dodge-ram-...-36008406.html
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/com...l#.VVxui7lVhBc
http://www.carid.com/2007-dodge-ram-...-36008406.html
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/com...l#.VVxui7lVhBc
#839
OK so after much confusion about 1 headlight being out (tried replacing it already and did nothign). The truck was in the shop for AC work and I had them look at it. They said its something wrong with the BCM and it was a dealer only service. Ugh. So now I figure might as well jump to HID. I was looking at theretrofitsources kits to replace the projectors in Spyder headlights. Anyone familiar?
http://www.carid.com/2007-dodge-ram-...-36008406.html
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/com...l#.VVxui7lVhBc
http://www.carid.com/2007-dodge-ram-...-36008406.html
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/com...l#.VVxui7lVhBc
#840