LOL Know what, when all else fails go back to the basics! Your timing chain and cam gear needs replacing! It has jumped one tooth! If you jump 2 it will never start again till the chain and cam gear is replaced! Alot of changes in the new engines but not that!

 

I pulled O2 sensors, no difference. Is there anyway that I could check to see if the timing chain and cam gear are bad. I'd really have to think I would be getting and engine code if timing was off, but who knows... Something it wrong and It's not giving me any codes.

 

On my scanner. Ignition advance at idle 1500RPM is .05 degrees. In gear at 900 RPM is jumping between 1 and 7 degrees. When the scanner refreshes every 3 second, I get 1.5, 6.5, 5.0, 7.0, 2.5, 2.0, 5.5, 6.0. I don't know what it should be, or if it's even relevant to this situation. Timing being off makes alot of sense to me.

 

I don't know how to advance and retard timing on that engine but on older ones I did it 3 degrees both ways and performance increased. Keep in mind there you have overhead cams to worry about! You put that on a dealership machine and it will show it!

 

I just found that the vacuum line from the intake manifold is not hooked up to the PCV valve. When I hook it up, or put my thumb over the line from the intake manifold, the truck immediately stalls out. I guess blocked PCV valve, does that make sense?

 

I replaced the PCV and hose, and it made a world of difference. I have brakes! Now the truck idles very rough, it knocks and rattles and shakes the whole truck, then when put in drive, it almost stalls out immediately, but if I start on a hill, and I can make it up to 10-20 mph, it will shift, and run good, until I slow down, then it stalls out. I have the following errors since the pcv was replaced: p0113 (IAT sensor circuit high) p0068 (Map-throttle position correlation p0300 (multiple misfire...)

 

What's the resolve of this ?

 

It's not resolved yet. I have a few garages and dealerships stumped. Nobody can quite figure it out. I'm to a "guess and check" stage. I replaced all sensors, some twice!, redid some of the wiring harness. The next step is to replace the ECM... BUT they do not sell new ECMs, only re-manufactured. Not a single company that anyone knows of carry's a rebuilt ECM for my specific truck, So I'd have to have it rebuilt. After a week of searching, I found a reliable company (Cardone) in Philly that rebuilds ECMS for about $250. If they can't repair it, they will refund my money so that I only owe a $75 processing fee. If they test the ECM and there's nothing wrong with it, they will send it back and refund my money so I only have to pay a $5 handling fee. It's a pretty good deal. If the ECM isn't bad, My next step is put a used, low mile engine in, if that doesn't work, I'll swap the entire wiring harness, and if that doesn't work I'm simply going to scrap/part out the truck because it must be haunted. I'll update this thread with any progress that is made.

 

I suppose it's time I update this thread. Hopefully someone will read this before they make the same mistake as I.

After troubleshooting this, I could only come up with the "if all else fails" diagnosis of a bad PCM. Someone on here mentioned about the timing chain slipping. Well that did make sense. I talked to 4 different garages about that being a possibility. The way they explained it is that the timing chain is crammed so tight inside these engines, that if one was ever to wear enough for it to slip, it would slip enough to make the engine not run at all, and even that was very unlikely. So I decided to go with a new PCM. BUT! they don't make new PCMs, they only sell re-manufactured ones. So that was fine. I spent a week trying to track one down, and they do not exist, so I thought I'd match the numbers of a junkyard one and give it a try. $150 later, I realize these trucks have a transponder key... duh! PCM is matched to the chip in key. PCMs can not be reprogrammed to a different vin, so now I have a $150 paper weight. I found a company called Cardone from Philly, PA, which is great since I'm only about 3 hours from Philadelphia. They do a "rebuild and return" deal. I send them my PCM, they test it, if it's bad, they rebuild for about $250 and send it back, newly re-manufactured, programmed to my vin and it's ready to plug and play. If it tests out fine, they charge a $75 handling fee and ship it back the way it is. Well they said it was bad and sent it back completely re-manufactured. I put it in, verified the vin on my obd2 scanner.... and the starter didn't even try. I am extremely stubborn and refuse to spend $90 per hour at a dealership. But at this point, I need a DRB3 scanner, and a Chrysler dealership is the only place I'm going to find one. So I had it towed for $85 to the dealership. It was there for 2 weeks untill they called and said the PCM is bad. WTF!?!?!?! 3 hours of testing, and the PCM's starter relay is directly shorted to ground internally, and on the scanner, the engine reads as a 5.7, rather than the 4.7 which the engine is. So with my 30 day warranty I ship it back to Philly, 1.5 weeks later, they send it back with a big sticker that says un-repairable. W.T.F!!! I call the parts dealer that I went through, (Rock Auto) which really is a great company, and after 3 phone calls, many emails, and another week I finally receive a full refund. The dealership can get me a re-manufatured ECM for the truck through Chrysler. For $500... I was sick of not having my truck so I went ahead and got one from the dealership. 1 week later they got it, put it in, and called to tell me that the timing chain is slipped, and I still have the same error.

The PCM was never bad, only the timing chain that couldn't possibly slip, slipped. I am not going to have a dealership change the timing chain on a 4.7 with 174,000 miles. So they want the truck gone A.S.A.P. I get the amazing idea of driving it home since I only live a few miles away. I made it about 2 miles before a loud pop and a big ball of fire dropped out from under it. I shut it down, the fire actually went out pretty quick and there is barely any damage. I think the driver side head gasket went and passenger side converter or header blew apart, but it was hard to see at night, so it might actually be worse. Another $85 tow at 9p.m. last night and now it's in my driveway. I was going to start taking the engine out today, but this morning my Dakota's differential decided to blow apart and make my driver side wheel stick out about 8" further than it's supposed to be while driving down the road at 50m.p.h. So I've been dealing with that rather than the Ram.

I found a warrantied 4.7l engine at a dealership about an hour away with only 4000 miles on it for $1800. I'm going to go pick it up next week and swap it out. Hopefully not to find a bad transmission, but with my luck, it's a pretty good possibility. The dealership said change the water pump! Whether it's bad or not, put a new water pump in while the engine is out of the truck. They say 10 hours labor to change it and they tend to go bad if the engine has not been run for a decent amount of time. I'm not taking any chances, I'm buying a $50 water pump.

Anyway that's the story, learn from my mistake rather then making it yourself. Take these damn trucks to a dealer! They aren't like the older Mopars where any backyard mechanic can work on it, unless you plan on putting out $4000 for a DRB3 scanner.

I'll update this again after the motor swap.

 

Oh my I think I'm having the same problem. My o2 light came on 3 weeks ago, changed them ran fine for a day, mpg went up. Next day going to work no power rough idles. Shop said pcm, changed mass air flow, plugs, ditched the cat converters. ( one collapsed ) still nothing. 05 Dakota with 112k and I will say I abuse the 4 wd when it rains.