So I worked on the install during the first part of my vacation and got my wires run, Alpine 9833, PG x100.4, x400.1, and PG tld66 linedriver installed. Right now I'm giving each front door and each dash speaker their own channel of attentuation and time alignment. Got everything focused but still need to flip the polarity on the dash speakers to try to give them a more fluid sound and better acoustical phase. Right now they're crossed pretty steep with the mids at 1600hz to get them blend. Flipping the polarity will let me go from a 24db slope to a 12db slope while hopefully keeping proper acoustical phase. One thing I will say is these Mexican papercones are suffering from power compression BAD with my overbuilt amps. I fully expected this to happen though considering the stock speakers weren't made for producing any type of dynamics. With the levelized crap you hear these days they sound fine.

Now for the speakers that will be going in next month. I'm going to probably use my Focal polyglass mids I had in my 06 Sierra in this truck. Here's the mids I have...got a gently used set last year from a buddy on DIYMA for $110 shipped and sold the tweets and passives.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_091165V...y=Focal&tp=106
Since I let my Morel mdt29's go with my sierra to fill the holes they were in I'm going to try a Tang Band ceramic tweeter that's been getting good reviews. The Morels had a nasty breakup node that couldn't be tamed so no regrets on letting them go with the truck. They still treated me well for nearly 2 years. Back on track, reflections from the windshield are going to cause a HUGE mess that a dashmat will only slightly tame so may as well go "bang for the buck" here. Here's the tang.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=264-865
For the sub I'm doing a 10" Sundown sub downfired over the tranny hump between the front console and back seat. Part of the box will need to drop down into the rear passenger floorboard to get the .9 cu ft required for a .707 alignment. This sub might be an airpig but it beats the low output, low efficiency, and usually high inductance small box woofers a lot of companies are coming out with today. Let's not forget how JL specs their subs for smaller boxes than what they really need. Run the numbers on them sometime and see for yourself why manufacturers box recomendations shouldn't be trusted. Here's the sub.
http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e6...n/IMG_1161.jpg
If you havn't figured it out already I refuse to pay a huge markup for car audio branded gear when I can get it from individuals I've met in person for a lot less or go with a raw home driver from a company that oem's for home audio companies. CDT has a 2" widebander that's a slightly tweaked Tang Band papercone mid/tweet. You can get the Tang version for less than $30 shipped for the pair. The cdt version is several times more for basically the same driver. If you've made it this far in my longwinded post I'll gladly give anyone an honest answer on what's "best" for any given budget. I'm also not afraid to say something is crap at a given price point. I'll update what I'm running at time goes on. Everything is subject to change in the coming weeks. This truck does need to be ready to show off by the end of July at a DIYMA meet.

 

my truck has 4 6 1/2 roadmaster speakers, low cost but good quality lol and for the boom boom crack i have 2 12" alpine type e's being pushed by a 600 watt 4 channel power acoustick amp, both subs are briged at the amp....that little beast can make me lose my breath lol

 

I got two ten inch kicker comp subs with a JL audio 500 watt amp pushing it
al behind my seat in a 91 dakota

 

It's all listed in the sig...There are some nice systems here!

 

Were the words "roadmaster" and "good quality" actually used in the same sentance there? Somebody's easy to please.

 

Did some driver changes and am now running the H-Audio x2 and Soul in stock locations. I lined the area around the stock grills with polyfil to catch that first reflection. If you don't do that the first reflection will give you a fit when it comes to dailing things in thanks to diffraction.
http://www.haudioincus.com/X-Series.php
They have a nice sterile sound that doesn't leave anything to the imagination. The detail will make you hear stuff in music you've never heard before. They aren't the most forgiving drivers in the world but that's what my Premier 880prs is forDrivers that are detailed usually aren't forgiving anyway.

For the sub I'm running a DD 510 I won on a raffle www.ddaudio.com and have it in 1.5 tuned to 30. Measures nearly flat on the rta. It's downfired under the back seat that I did a 4" lift on. It really is a nice sub for sound quality and isn't boomy at all. I recently traded my DIYMA for a Dayton ho10 since the DIYMA was bought for a center console box in my Sierra right before I decided to trade in for the Ram. It measures really well and sounds really good in .7 tuned to 30. Funny how it does so well in a TINY ported box where the hf version that looks exactly like it needs a HUGE box.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=295-462

 

Head unit - Sony CDX-GT63UIW 52wx4
Front door panels - Sony R1343 35w rms 160w peak 5 1/4"
Rear quarter panels - Sony XS-R5743 35w rms 190w peak 5x7
Backseat - dual SD12 sub, 175w rms. 500w peak
150w crappy amp powering the sub (can't remember the name)

14 gauge wire throughout. That's in my truck (96 dodge Dakota). I spent maybe $300 on everything total. Installed it all myself. It gets incredibly loud and is crystal clear. Tell me what you guys think.

 

You really want me to be honest? And did I read this right that you're running 14g wire to your amp? Is it even fused? If not you're just asking for a fire. Go to this website and #16 on the list at the right. www.bcae1.com

 

I didn't view the website yet. Let me clarify. The gauge wire that is 14 is running to my sub not to my battery. I'm running I believe 4 gauge to my battery with a fuse inline six inches from the battery. Same with the radio. Same gauge tonthe battery with inline fuse under the steering column. Sorry I didn't make that more clear beforehand.


Oh and I know I'm not pushing extreme wattage in my system. But it sounds great to my ears and gets very loud which is what I desired. When at those high volumes it still sounds great. I'm not trying to win a contest or show off cause I'm pushing 3000 watts on my total system. I just want good clear music from my truck.

 

Its not done yet or even started for that matter, but i did start ordering supplies and equipment. the list follows =)


Power- Optima Yellow Top, Stock Alt, 4guage power and ground, 100A Master Fuse

Amp- JBL GTO5355
RMS @ 2OHMS
75wx4ch
360wx1ch

Source- Pioneer DEH-???? <- will fill in later not sure what im picking.

Highs/Mids-
-Front- JBL P650C
-Rear- JBL p662

Lows- TS-SW1201S2 (single)

There's other odds and ends such as wire harnesses for ease of installation and such. Also still debating what capacitor to install.

I will try my best to document this install to the best of my ability. pics included.

i will also be fabricating a custom sub box, it will go behind the driverside rear seat, i plan to make it to continue having the back seat flip up.

as for the head unit, i maybe ordering one compartable with PAC audios steering wheel interface, as i do not really want to loose that fucntionality.