Avenger Gen I V6 Timing belt replacement by Bad Venge
#1
04-08-2007, 01:59 PM
Avenger Gen I V6 Timing belt replacement by Bad Venge
V6 timing belt water pump replacement
1. remove the overflow tank, its only going to get in the way later. All you have to do is remove the cap/hose and pull it straight up.
2. loosen the tension on the p/s pump belt and remove it. Do the same with the A/C belt.
3. remove the mounting bolts for the p/s pump. No need to d/c the hoses, just lay the pump aside.
4. There are a few wire harnesses attached to that side of the plenum, remove them and shove them aside as well.
5. If the front end of the car isn't already on jack stands, go ahead and jack it up.
6. Remove the right-front tire.
(now would be a good time to drain the coolant system and you may as well flush it too.)
7. The splash guard hangs from two bolts and two screw-rivets. Be gentle with the little plastic screws, they strip easily. You also don't want to apply pressure, as that will push them back in.
8. Once the splash guard is off, remove the harmonic balancer (crankshaft pulley). you will need a 1/2" drive breaker bar and the right socket. wedge the breaker bar in under the frame piece to your left and tap the starter to loosen the center bolt. loosen the center bolt with your hands several turns and then leave it, you will need it there in a few minutes.
9. You will need a Chrysler 3-arm puller. Autozone will loan you one for about 60 bucks. Once you pull the pulley out as far as the bolt is unscrewed, you should be able to pull it off. If not, unscrew it some more and repeat. Put the harmonic balancer aside.
10. Put the bolt back into the crankshaft.
11. Remove the bolts holding the plastic timing covers and set them aside. The timing cover is a three piece set. (remember to always take special care with keeping track of bolts)
12. Put the breaker bar back into the crankshaft bolt and rotate CLOCKWISE until the timing marks on BOTH camshafts AND the crankshaft line up with their respective marks. It is fairly simple to tell where the marks are. There is a small dimple in the gears that correspond with grooves on the engine behind them.
13. This is important as if timing is lost it is a very tedious job to find it again, and failure to do so can possibly KILL YOUR PISTONS AND VALVES as they can collide with improper timing!
14. Remove the two bolts holding the hydraulic belt tensioner. It is a cylinder looking device with a pin protruding out at the belt-facing end. Set it aside.
15. Remove the belt.
16. The water pump is the pulley in the middle directly above the crankshaft pulley. Remove the larger two sizes of bolts first, as this will remove the flange piece as well as the pump.
17. Remove the flange piece from the pump. This is done by removing the smaller bolts. Again, take special care to keep track of them.
18. Clean up the flange piece and block and make sure the sealing surfaces are in good shape. It would not be a bad idea to hit them with a good residue free solvent like M.E.K., then wipe it off good. DO NOT use toluene!! (This would also be a good time to look for any leaks and make sure the engine is clean and tidy down there.)
19. Put a small bead of BLUE atv sealant around the surface of the flange that seals to the pump. (BLUE!!)
20. Do the same on the new pump.
21. Drop on the gasket and put the pump and the flange together and SNUG the bolts. DO NOT tighten them yet just enough the keep it snug and from moving at all.
22. Put a bead of atv around the other side of the flange piece and on the side of the gasket that will seal to the block.
23. Mount the whole shebang back to the block and snug all the bolts down.
24. Torque all the bolts to spec in two stages and in a criss-cross pattern.
25. Put the new belt around the rear camshaft sprocket and clip or GENTLY clamp it there. Go under the pump and over the front cam sprocket TIGHTLY, clip it there too. Go around the idler pulley (the one just under the front cam sprocket), under the crankshaft (TIGHTLY!) and finally put it around the tensioner pulley. It should be a snug fit. If it wont go on, there is to much slack elsewhere. Also make sure you don't move anything out of time while doing this. It may take some time to get just right.
26. Put the hydraulic tensioner in a bench-vise at a 90 degree angle to compress the pin into the cylinder. Make sure you don't put it at an angle and risk it flying out and shattering your face. There are corresponding holes in the body and in the pin that will line up when under the proper compression. When this happens, insert an Allen wrench or similar pin in there to hold it in place. It should be inserted in such a way that you can get it out after remounting the tensioner.
27. Mount the tensioner back to the block. This really doesn't need to be torqued down, just make sure its good and tight.
28. Double check all the timing, and if it's all correct, pull out the pin and the belt will be tensioned.
29. Rotate to engine CLOCKWISE twice. If the engine will not move at a certain place, the timing is wrong.
30. Now its time to put the timing covers back on.
31. Now its time to put the pulley back on. Tighten the center nut down as much as you can before the engine starts moving. When that happens, whack it with a pipe-wrench or something until it stops getting tighter.
32. The rest is the reverse of disassembly!
Avenger1stGen
1. remove the overflow tank, its only going to get in the way later. All you have to do is remove the cap/hose and pull it straight up.
2. loosen the tension on the p/s pump belt and remove it. Do the same with the A/C belt.
3. remove the mounting bolts for the p/s pump. No need to d/c the hoses, just lay the pump aside.
4. There are a few wire harnesses attached to that side of the plenum, remove them and shove them aside as well.
5. If the front end of the car isn't already on jack stands, go ahead and jack it up.
6. Remove the right-front tire.
(now would be a good time to drain the coolant system and you may as well flush it too.)
7. The splash guard hangs from two bolts and two screw-rivets. Be gentle with the little plastic screws, they strip easily. You also don't want to apply pressure, as that will push them back in.
8. Once the splash guard is off, remove the harmonic balancer (crankshaft pulley). you will need a 1/2" drive breaker bar and the right socket. wedge the breaker bar in under the frame piece to your left and tap the starter to loosen the center bolt. loosen the center bolt with your hands several turns and then leave it, you will need it there in a few minutes.
9. You will need a Chrysler 3-arm puller. Autozone will loan you one for about 60 bucks. Once you pull the pulley out as far as the bolt is unscrewed, you should be able to pull it off. If not, unscrew it some more and repeat. Put the harmonic balancer aside.
10. Put the bolt back into the crankshaft.
11. Remove the bolts holding the plastic timing covers and set them aside. The timing cover is a three piece set. (remember to always take special care with keeping track of bolts)
12. Put the breaker bar back into the crankshaft bolt and rotate CLOCKWISE until the timing marks on BOTH camshafts AND the crankshaft line up with their respective marks. It is fairly simple to tell where the marks are. There is a small dimple in the gears that correspond with grooves on the engine behind them.
13. This is important as if timing is lost it is a very tedious job to find it again, and failure to do so can possibly KILL YOUR PISTONS AND VALVES as they can collide with improper timing!
14. Remove the two bolts holding the hydraulic belt tensioner. It is a cylinder looking device with a pin protruding out at the belt-facing end. Set it aside.
15. Remove the belt.
16. The water pump is the pulley in the middle directly above the crankshaft pulley. Remove the larger two sizes of bolts first, as this will remove the flange piece as well as the pump.
17. Remove the flange piece from the pump. This is done by removing the smaller bolts. Again, take special care to keep track of them.
18. Clean up the flange piece and block and make sure the sealing surfaces are in good shape. It would not be a bad idea to hit them with a good residue free solvent like M.E.K., then wipe it off good. DO NOT use toluene!! (This would also be a good time to look for any leaks and make sure the engine is clean and tidy down there.)
19. Put a small bead of BLUE atv sealant around the surface of the flange that seals to the pump. (BLUE!!)
20. Do the same on the new pump.
21. Drop on the gasket and put the pump and the flange together and SNUG the bolts. DO NOT tighten them yet just enough the keep it snug and from moving at all.
22. Put a bead of atv around the other side of the flange piece and on the side of the gasket that will seal to the block.
23. Mount the whole shebang back to the block and snug all the bolts down.
24. Torque all the bolts to spec in two stages and in a criss-cross pattern.
25. Put the new belt around the rear camshaft sprocket and clip or GENTLY clamp it there. Go under the pump and over the front cam sprocket TIGHTLY, clip it there too. Go around the idler pulley (the one just under the front cam sprocket), under the crankshaft (TIGHTLY!) and finally put it around the tensioner pulley. It should be a snug fit. If it wont go on, there is to much slack elsewhere. Also make sure you don't move anything out of time while doing this. It may take some time to get just right.
26. Put the hydraulic tensioner in a bench-vise at a 90 degree angle to compress the pin into the cylinder. Make sure you don't put it at an angle and risk it flying out and shattering your face. There are corresponding holes in the body and in the pin that will line up when under the proper compression. When this happens, insert an Allen wrench or similar pin in there to hold it in place. It should be inserted in such a way that you can get it out after remounting the tensioner.
27. Mount the tensioner back to the block. This really doesn't need to be torqued down, just make sure its good and tight.
28. Double check all the timing, and if it's all correct, pull out the pin and the belt will be tensioned.
29. Rotate to engine CLOCKWISE twice. If the engine will not move at a certain place, the timing is wrong.
30. Now its time to put the timing covers back on.
31. Now its time to put the pulley back on. Tighten the center nut down as much as you can before the engine starts moving. When that happens, whack it with a pipe-wrench or something until it stops getting tighter.
32. The rest is the reverse of disassembly!
Avenger1stGen