LSCMan,

If it is a rust/lubrication issue, how come it is always on the drivers side rear? Wouldn't the passenger side face the same issues?

This will be the 4th set of pads in 48,000 miles on a 2010.

I have already replaced the caliper, and I do lube the slides each time.

 

It is hard to say why the right side always sticks. This could be affected by your parking behaviors (which side of van points west toward weather). Metal does not always rust at the same rate so the left caliper bracket may be more resistant to rust. The brackets and calipers obviously came from different batches wrt forging, machining and metal treatment. The left driver's side of my van was always sticking because the rubber bellows on the sliding pin has a crack in it, letting water in. However this level of analysis can't be done thru a computer screen on a forum lol. The problem could be a hose.

To review, the standard '08-'13 12" rear brake drag symptoms may be caused by the following:

1) rusted floating caliper mechanicals (pins and sleeves improperly lubricated)
2) stuck piston in caliper bore caused by rust (H2O in brake fluid)
3) rusted track on mounting bracket, under the spring in #4 below (holds the pads in place due to rust build-up or packout)
4) rusted springs that sit in the mounting bracket track (pad backing plate rides in them, allowing it to freely to retract upon brake release) - this is similar to #3
5) factory tolerance issues (a modification kit is sold for certain years)
6) collapsed/de-laminated brake hose inner ply acting like a 1-way valve, preventing fluid from escaping caliper bore upon releasing brake pedal.
7) emergency brake cable rusted and not retracting when released.

Rotors & pads fail prematurely when brakes drag. The above issues can be corrected by a skilled mechanic. When a shop replaces a part and the problem is not corrected, it was obbviously not the right fix. Mechanics sometimes guess wrong. Issues #1,3 and 4 can be uncovered without guessing while #2, #5 and #6 require the process of elimination and/or some good skill to uncover.

 

Just got off the phone with the dealer here in MI. I was told the 2010s have an *updated* caliper slide kit that has more tolerance than the factory ones which prevents lockup.

He says $130 for the kit $350 for them to do the brake job.

 

....And that is part of the problem with Chrysler. I say if they have "updated" a caliper slide (put in kit), then they are aware of the problem and need to fix it for "FREE".

 

I mentioned the update kit, listed above as #5. Don't just throw the kit on expecting miracles because these vans have many other rear brake issues, as I have outlined. The problems that plague other years also affect your van. You need to check for all the issues and properly service the complete assembly to assure success.

 

Just did my wife's rear brakes on her 2008 Dodge GC SXT 3.8L. This is the second time and we are @ 75K. This is what I observed:

After removing caliper and bracket I cleaned all parts. Rotors were ok but the pads were worn uneven and really tight in those slides. Driver's side rear pad was at 5% and the passenger side rear pad was at 15%. My wife had been complaining about noise recently and when she got home one night I went out and I could smell the rear brakes were locking up...I should have roasted a marshmallow!

I purchased new pads with new slides. Installing them I noticed how tight the pads go into that bracket compared to the front brake job I did on the same van. I decided to file the pad a smidge on each end that contacted the slide so they would move as freely as the fronts. I only had to file a tiny bit to achieve this. Remember...I did this of my own accord and I don't suggest you do the same...I will post back any results in the future.

I truly believe that the overall tight fit of these pads contributes to the uneven wear and sticking problems.

I hope this helps someone.

 

I did the brakes myself.

I spoke with mechanic and he also suggested filing the "ears" on the aftermarket brake pads to give them room to move. It turned out I HAD TO file the ears because I could not get the pads into the grooves at all. So I grinded some off (kind of eyeballed it) so that I could get them in and allow for a little movement.

This mechanic says he does this on almost every brake job anymore.

I guess we'll see.

 

Sounds familiar & thanks for posting. Mine were too tight but it was caused by rust packout on the bracket that could be easily scraped off.

In your case, I blame the original Dodge bracket tolerances from the inadequate clearance. No doubt the pad backing plates can be ground to add necessary clearance, but that "fix" will haunt you every time you change brakes because you are essentially creating custom pads.

It would be very difficult to properly enlarge the machined surfaces on the stock mounting plates. They would almost need mounted in a milling machine to get the surface shaped properly. The pad backing plate surface is much thinner and therefore easier to modify thru grinding or filing.

Aftermarket mounting brackets which are sold everywhere would likely allow aftermarket pads without requiring you to grind the pad backing plates for adequate clearance.

 

Hi

I think i have the sticky caliper problem... i go to my dealer in two days, i like to know if anyone have a reff number for a *updated* caliper slide kit for a Grand Caravan SXT Stow n Go P225/65R16...
yesterday on HW i got smoke getting out rear driver side wheel... i did a temperature reading of 425 degree celsius on the disk.... scarry!
I feel i got a real lemon there!

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/members...ake-19528.html

 

Read the entire thread and I have the exact same problem everyone has described here on my 2010 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with tow package (4.0 L engine). Driver's side brakes seizing and now making a horrible noise.

What I've been told at my dealership is that the tolerances are too tight which causes the brakes to seize in place - this was from a mechanic at Dodge directly. He said they were designed to be tight because otherwise you get rattling noises which the consumers don't like, but they didn't take in to account some paint or coating that might have added a millimeter or two which makes the whole thing too tight.... They won't do anything for me because I'm over the 40,000 km limit for the recall; and apparently, there's a 60,000 km limit for replacing the caliper bracket (that's what they called it anyway), but I've also missed that limit by 4,000 km - so I'm screwed and will have to get the work done on my own dime. Because Dodge has pissed me off, I refuse to get the work done there....

I just called for the part # on my van and what they gave me was:
- Caliper Adapters part #6819347AA ($84/each wheel)
- Brake Pad part#6819349AB ($135 for the set)

The parts guy tells me that the brake pad has been changed/updated to fit the new "adapter". I called a local parts shop (because I don't want to buy from the dealership), they have no clue what I'm talking about wrt "caliper adapter".

Anyone know how to get the "updated" Caliper adapter and brakes from a reseller? The one parts place I called wasn't able to find it with the manufacturer's part number. If they can't look up the manufacturer part #, am I not risking getting the original equipment with the "too tight" tolerances?