Save $$$$ on fuel pump replacement.
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10-25-2006, 02:14 PM
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Save $$$$ on fuel pump replacement.
Yeterday I replaced the fuel pump in my 92 Grand Caravan.It was a pretty simple job until I got to the part where you take the old unit to the parts store to compare it to the new pump.The new part uses a different plug connector than the old unit and an "adaptor" cost was $40.The "adaptor" also dissapears into the frame and had to be traced to it's source to be reconnected.
The answer was to skip the new wiring harness and swap the plug connector on the new pump to the old connector.This was an easy job accomplished by twisting and turning the plug until it came free of the pump body.The job was made a lot easier with the use of a set of medium size Channel Locks to press the plug out.Now for the interesting part.The two blue wires going into the plug must be reversed.The old plug has a red wire,a blue wire,an open terminal,a blue wire,and a black wire.The new connector uses the same color configuration but the two blue wires are reversed.
When you change the plugs be sure to keep track of which blue wire is which by cutting them one at a time and wrapping them around the wire that will end up beside them in the connector.
If you have an ohmmeter,check this arrangement to be sure before you reinstall the pump into the tank.You can also check your work by hooking the wires together and plugging the new pump into the car's wiring harness and turning the key on and moving the float up and down and checking for proper indications from the fuel guage.MAKE CERTAIN THAT ALL THE UNCONNECTED WIRES ARE INSULATED SO THERE CAN BE NO REMOTE CHANCE OF AN ELECTRICAL SPARK!!!
If you get proper indications from the gas guage,remove the unit from under the car and solder all connections and reinstall.
A couple of helpfull tips.
When you cut the wires,cut them all to different lengths so the soldered connections won't all be side by side.This allows the wires to be tie wrapped together without having a big bulge in the wire bundle.
To insulate the wires you can use LIQUID electrical tape.It brushes onto the connections and seems to be unaffected by gasoline.(I put some on a piece of wire and before it had a chance to cure,soaked it in gasoline to no adverse effect)Heat shrink tubing will also work but test it by immersing a piece in gasoline to see if it softens or deteriorates in any way.
Electrical tape will quickly fall apart in gasoline,so don't use it or any other tape to insulate connections.
If none of this is for you and the fuel pump has died,you can bang on the bottom of the gas tank and 99% of the time you can get the engine to start.You can use this last gasp to get the car to a repair shop,saving the money you would have payed for the towing charge.(don't think the problem is fixed,the fix is temporary and you could be standed somewhere a lot worse)
Happy Motoring.
The answer was to skip the new wiring harness and swap the plug connector on the new pump to the old connector.This was an easy job accomplished by twisting and turning the plug until it came free of the pump body.The job was made a lot easier with the use of a set of medium size Channel Locks to press the plug out.Now for the interesting part.The two blue wires going into the plug must be reversed.The old plug has a red wire,a blue wire,an open terminal,a blue wire,and a black wire.The new connector uses the same color configuration but the two blue wires are reversed.
When you change the plugs be sure to keep track of which blue wire is which by cutting them one at a time and wrapping them around the wire that will end up beside them in the connector.
If you have an ohmmeter,check this arrangement to be sure before you reinstall the pump into the tank.You can also check your work by hooking the wires together and plugging the new pump into the car's wiring harness and turning the key on and moving the float up and down and checking for proper indications from the fuel guage.MAKE CERTAIN THAT ALL THE UNCONNECTED WIRES ARE INSULATED SO THERE CAN BE NO REMOTE CHANCE OF AN ELECTRICAL SPARK!!!
If you get proper indications from the gas guage,remove the unit from under the car and solder all connections and reinstall.
A couple of helpfull tips.
When you cut the wires,cut them all to different lengths so the soldered connections won't all be side by side.This allows the wires to be tie wrapped together without having a big bulge in the wire bundle.
To insulate the wires you can use LIQUID electrical tape.It brushes onto the connections and seems to be unaffected by gasoline.(I put some on a piece of wire and before it had a chance to cure,soaked it in gasoline to no adverse effect)Heat shrink tubing will also work but test it by immersing a piece in gasoline to see if it softens or deteriorates in any way.
Electrical tape will quickly fall apart in gasoline,so don't use it or any other tape to insulate connections.
If none of this is for you and the fuel pump has died,you can bang on the bottom of the gas tank and 99% of the time you can get the engine to start.You can use this last gasp to get the car to a repair shop,saving the money you would have payed for the towing charge.(don't think the problem is fixed,the fix is temporary and you could be standed somewhere a lot worse)
Happy Motoring.