I'd like to change the fluid and adjust the bands in my 01 Caravan. I've done a little background checking and it looks like just dropping the pan and pulling the filter will not get out all of the old fluid. I've read posts from others who have run the engine and put the trans in drive to force the remaining (old) fluid out through the cooler hose. That sounds like asking for trouble. [sm=badidea.gif] I was wondering if a little compressed air down the filler tube (10-15 psi) might not force the remaining fluid out. Any thoughts?

Also want to adjust the bands. Does anyone know the torque and backoff specs?

Thanks

 

I don't think you have adjustable bands on a 2001 tranny. I think you have either a 3.3/3.8 which bolts to a A604 (41TE) transmission. No band adjustment because it has computer controlled clutch packs.
I agree the flush can be tricky to do especially if you let the pump run dry.
I suggest you remove/drain the pan of old fluid. With the pan off, install a drain in your pan. Get the replaceable gasket and install a $tealer filter. Fill with ATF+4. Drive it for a few thousand and drain the fluid again from the pan. Refill and you will have changed most of the old fluid. You only need to drain the fluid, and reuse the filter on the second drain.
HELP! makes a user installed tranny drain, part # 65128. I would Loctite it on with red/blue Loctite.
MOPAR reusable gasket part #'s for the various tyranny's:
1 05011113AA Gasket, Transmission Oil Pan, 31TH
1 05011114AA Gasket, Transmission Oil Pan, 42LE
1 05011115AA Gasket, Transmission Oil Pan, 41TE/AE

I wouldn't ever try blowing air down the fill tube. The oil that doesn't come out is in the torque converter and will be unaffected by pressurizing the pan.

 

Thanks for the help. Sounds like a logical approach. I do have the 3.3 engine.

 

Another note on ATF+4. The spec is so tight that any certified DC ATF+4 is the same as the factory fluid. That means that Wallmart Syntec ATF+4 is as good as MOPAR. There's some savings there, check it out.

The pan bolt torque on the reusable gasket is 144 inch pounds/12 foot pounds. If you use the RTV torque of 170 inch pounds/14 foot pounds you may distort the gasket, leading to leakage.
Filter to valve body screws - 40 in-lbs for the filter bolt torque.
Your local $tealer may not stock the reusable gasket, so plan ahead.
If you use the RTV sealer be sure to let it set/cure 24 hours before adding fluid.
I don't have the filter part number for your van.

As always, good luck with your project!

 

As webbee said, no on the compressed air.

After dropping the pan, changing the filter, and refilling to a good level (do not start vehicle) you will want to disconnect the return line (where the fluid leaves the radiator or transmission fluid cooler to go back to the transmission) and have it so it emtpys into a container. Than, have a friend start the motor and put the transmission in neutral. Pour in new fluid as the old fluid comes out. As soon as you see all good and clean fluid coming out, you know everythings good. Reconnect everything. Also, make sure you check the transmission fluid the PROPER way after finishing everything. (Typically, with the engine warmed up and idling, parked on a level surface, and with transmission in neutral).

 

Once again, thanks for all the good info, especially the torque specs and the price info on the fluid. Adding fluid while old is draining out sounds like a much better idea than just pumping out the old like I read somewhere else. I can deal with that Thanks a lot.