Ok, so I drive a 2000 ram2500. 5.9 24v cummins. This weekend I am going to buy a banks high ram elbow, K&N cold air intake, diablo power puck and do a muffler delete. I know this will really wake up my stock cummins but will the truck still be as reliable? Will my stock fuel system hold up for many more years?

 

I should mention theese mods are being done in the name of pulling my 12,500lbs 32' fifth wheel

 

*bump for help

 

you read advertisements too much...

save your money!!!

NO banks ANYTHING. don't even bother with an intake horn.. 2nd gen intake horns far outflow 3rd gen intake horns. I still run my stock intake horn and i'm on the heels of 600HP @ the rears on the dyno. I don't guess my numbers, or add manufacturers claims together... they are dyno proven

forget the K&N too. absolute worst air filter you could put on a turbo diesel. oiled air filters are a no no on a forced induction diesel engine.

the turbo sucks so hard on the filter that it will actually suck the oil right out of the filter which not only gunks up the turbo compressor with oil but it becomes sludge when all that dust the oil was meant to catch comes through the horrible filter element and sticks to the oil all over the turbo..


best air filter upgrade is a "BHAF" (Big Honkin Air Filter)

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd...kin-air-filter

next, you need to get an upgraded lift pump on the truck if you don't already have one.

Factory lift pumps on these trucks are junk and can barely keep up with stock fuel demands.

You will need gauges too.
0-30psi fuel pressure
0-60psi boost
EGT
trans temp (if you have an automatic)

fuel pressure needs to be between 10-20psi at all times. up to 25psi is grey area safe, but below 10psi is dangerously low and can potentially damage the injection pump as fuel is it's only coolant and lubrication source.

muffler delete is fine
power puck wouldn't be my first choice of a box, but any of the non wire-tap boxes will all produce the same 65hp...it takes wiretap fueling to go beyond that with power...

If you have an automatic trans, you will need to build the trans before trying to add more power than that or you will destroy the trans.

upgraded torque converter, and valve body will go a long ways towards holding more power.

 

Wow thank you I've been hoping someone was going chime in on this thread. So tomorow she gets the BHAF and muffle delete, power puck i already ordered, thats it i guess. What brand of upgraded lift pump do u reccomend, also should I gain or loose mpg with theese mods

 

should gain some economy with the added injection timing unless you lead foot it...

FASS95 or FASS150 would be my recommendation.

future goals really determine the GPH rating for the pump you need...

stock - 450hp can run a 95-100GPH pump. 450hp-700hp needs a 150GPH pump

700hp+ needs a 200GPH or higher pump. you won't see these power levels from a stock vp44 injection pump without "drugs" (nitrous, h20/meth, LPG)


I run a 150GPH lift pump with 1/2" fuel line, 1/2" draw straw 5, and air/water/fuel separator with 2 micron spin on filter. equiv to it would be fass150 titanium (has pre-filter/separator and post filter)

mine is an airdog150, but I bought it years ago before that company changed ownership and went to hell in a hand basket. literally their quality control dropped off a cliff after the company was bought out, so I would avoid their pumps at all costs. 5 years ago I would have been telling you to get an airdog because they used to be the best damn pumps out there, but sadly that is no longer the case. FASS is nearly identical though and still producing high quality pumps.