My problem started in a very cold night in Feb as well. I started my car the next morning and it was hesitant and then started, running very rough and the check engine light came on. I brought it to autozone and got codes for a bad ignition coil pack 1. I replaced the coil pack and the plugs and when i went to start it the car would not get any spark. Ive had the car with two different mechanics and the second one found some shorted wire to coil pack in which he replaced but there is still no spark. He said there is a pulse from the camshaft and crankshaft sensors along with pulse from the fuel injectors and im getting 60lbs of pressure from the fuel pump. Any ideas on what could be wrong with my car. I've been without it for 8 weeks now and I miss it.
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Have you tried to follow the "failure to start test"?Other than the ASD, etc, many circuits can "short out" the system.The first thing to find out is if you have the "fire signal" at the coil pack.Just follow the test all the way from checking the power (just to be sure).
Technically the fuel pump gets a ground from the PCM (and the power from the key
on position). The ASD shuts down the fuel injectors (in case of an accident
etc). To say the ASD circuit is up and running just because the pump is on
(with fuel pressure at the rail (this is where he read the 58 PSI) ), is not
conclusive. Also to say the CAM and CRANK sensors have power, is not to say the
signal is getting to the coil pack.
Basics...Fuel + fire + air = combustion, if you are getting gas in the cylinders
(from the injectors), you should be getting some "gas smell" out the tail pipe
while cranking the engine (btw, this would be more conclusive than pressure at
the rail because it would tell if the injectors are fireing or not). Next check
spark, you can ground a spark plug while removed to ensure it is sparking. Of
course, to check the volume of air being drawn is difficult and needs special
tools, but usually fire or fuel is the fix.
Now more complex...questions like why do I not have fuel? or Why do I not have
fire? In the computerized auto age with many circuits, this can be very
difficult or sometimes very easy. You just have to follow the steps.
Step 1 (for a no fire), do the test I mentioned (not "power is at the the ...").
Is there a signal at the coil or not? If not then:
If the test light did not flash, the ASD relay did not energize. The cause is
either the relay itself or one of the relay circuits. Test the circuits for a
ground or open circuit. If you have a DRB scan tool, this is where you would
need it to check the circuits.
If it did flash:
Crank the engine. If the key was placed in the OFF position after Step 4, turn
the ignition to the ON position before cranking the engine. Wait for the test
light to flash once, then crank the engine.
If the test light momentarily flashes during cranking, the PCM is not receiving
a camshaft position sensor signal. Test the camshaft position sensor circuits
for a ground or open circuit. Since Chrysler does not give a procedure for
testing the camshaft position sensor with a voltmeter, ohmmeter or test light,
have the component tested at a reputable automotive service center familiar with
If the test light did not flash during cranking, unplug the camshaft position
sensor connector. Turn the ignition key to the OFF position. Turn the key to the
ON position, wait for the test light to momentarily flash once, then crank the
engine. If the test light momentarily flashes, the camshaft position sensor is
shorted and must be replaced with a new one. If the light did not flash, the
cause of the no-start is in either the crankshaft position sensor/camshaft
position sensor 8.0 volt supply circuit, or the crankshaft position sensor 5
volt output or ground circuits. Have the crankshaft position sensor checked,
after checking the sensor circuits for a ground or open circuit.