Cold Air Intake for 2004 5.9 Diesel
#11
Jason,
Before you start modding the truck, read this.....
http://www.doghousediesel.com/id12.html
Here are the big questions to answer BEFORE you start buying parts.....
1 - What do you do with the truck EVERYDAY?
2 - What would you LIKE the truck to do?
3 - How much power do you REALLY want to make?
Answer those questions honestly and we can get you on the path to getting the right parts the first time, rather than compromise parts for a short time.
It's a lot cheaper to get the right part, the first time.
And, Banks isn't bad.....it's just expensive and doesn't yield the power that others do for the amount you pay.
As for the exhaust....what do you want the truck to sound like?
Before you start modding the truck, read this.....
http://www.doghousediesel.com/id12.html
Here are the big questions to answer BEFORE you start buying parts.....
1 - What do you do with the truck EVERYDAY?
2 - What would you LIKE the truck to do?
3 - How much power do you REALLY want to make?
Answer those questions honestly and we can get you on the path to getting the right parts the first time, rather than compromise parts for a short time.
It's a lot cheaper to get the right part, the first time.
And, Banks isn't bad.....it's just expensive and doesn't yield the power that others do for the amount you pay.
As for the exhaust....what do you want the truck to sound like?
#12
9 times out of ten its just me in the truck, I love to hear an engine work. Ive always been a gas guy up until i bought my Dodge. Anything from mustangs to my current 67 Camaro. So I like loud. I have already removed my silencer ring off my turbo. That helped some but not near enough. I dont have huge plans for making extreme hp but since its possible would love to show some people up from time to time. The truck is my daily driver and hope it will be for a while. I know the tranny up grades are vital so will not do a whole lot until that can be taken care of. I really want to be able to boil the tires like your pic and have to refrain myself for fear of killing the tranny. Do you reccomend any gauges over the next set such as manual and digital. I like the pillar set-up.
#13
#14
Jason,
On the gauges, it's all a matter personal preference if you want analog or digital. Some folks like the analogs, some like the digital.
For an everyday driver, you want to keep the power mild until you do the trans upgrades. The stock trans can only handle 40 - 60 HP over stock before it starts slipping and heating up.
Do the gauges first, then intake and exhaust. After that, a good torque converter and valve body go a long way.
Power wise, if you do the analog gauges, you'll do fine with a Smarty Jr. If you want the digital gauges and power in one package, go with the Edge Juice with Attitude.
On the gauges, it's all a matter personal preference if you want analog or digital. Some folks like the analogs, some like the digital.
For an everyday driver, you want to keep the power mild until you do the trans upgrades. The stock trans can only handle 40 - 60 HP over stock before it starts slipping and heating up.
Do the gauges first, then intake and exhaust. After that, a good torque converter and valve body go a long way.
Power wise, if you do the analog gauges, you'll do fine with a Smarty Jr. If you want the digital gauges and power in one package, go with the Edge Juice with Attitude.
#15
sorry brother, i didn't mean for that to sound like i was knocking ya.....
As for the filter.....i'd replace it. I won't run another k&n on a turbo'd vehicle.
When you get a chance, hold that filter up to the light, you can see through it.
For a replacement, you need to take 3 measurements.....
1 - the diameter of the tube
2 - the length of the current filter (or the max length that you feel will fit)
3 - the diameter of the current filter (or the max diamter that you think will fit)
then we can get you a filter that will fit your existing hardware.
As for the filter.....i'd replace it. I won't run another k&n on a turbo'd vehicle.
When you get a chance, hold that filter up to the light, you can see through it.
For a replacement, you need to take 3 measurements.....
1 - the diameter of the tube
2 - the length of the current filter (or the max length that you feel will fit)
3 - the diameter of the current filter (or the max diamter that you think will fit)
then we can get you a filter that will fit your existing hardware.
#16
For a daily driver, running a stock turbo, I really like the S&B.
S&B has a nice set up. 8 layer filter vs a 7 layer on the AFE and a 3 layer on the K&N.
It has a full air box that draws air from the oem location and from the bottom. The lid is also removeable for additional air.
I'll shoot you a PM with a price on one.
S&B has a nice set up. 8 layer filter vs a 7 layer on the AFE and a 3 layer on the K&N.
It has a full air box that draws air from the oem location and from the bottom. The lid is also removeable for additional air.
I'll shoot you a PM with a price on one.
Last edited by Coal Train; 01-12-2010 at 04:49 PM.
#17
for a daily driver, running a stock turbo, i really like the s&b.
S&b has a nice set up. 8 layer filter vs a 7 layer on the afe and a 3 layer on the k&n.
It has a full air box that draws air from the oem location and from the bottom. The lid is also removeable for additional air.
I'll shoot you a pm with a price on one.
S&b has a nice set up. 8 layer filter vs a 7 layer on the afe and a 3 layer on the k&n.
It has a full air box that draws air from the oem location and from the bottom. The lid is also removeable for additional air.
I'll shoot you a pm with a price on one.
#18
Best way to increase mileage on a diesel is add more timing.
But, in order to do that, you need a tuner or module.....preferably a tuner.
Now, to be flat honest, NONE of the mileage claims by most of the manufacturers is even remotely close. If you see 1/2 - 1 MPG increase, you're doing pretty good.
The onle that allows you the most flexibility with the timing and rail pressure is the Smarty. But, for someone that is mostly stock and wants the truck to tow and daily drive, you don't need anything more than a Smarty Jr.
Even running all the BS that I am on this truck, I stll get 16 - 18 MPG in day to day driving and 20 - 21.5 on the highway, depending on speeds and terrain. Those are hand calculated numbers, not crap from the overhead lie-o-meter.
But, in order to do that, you need a tuner or module.....preferably a tuner.
Now, to be flat honest, NONE of the mileage claims by most of the manufacturers is even remotely close. If you see 1/2 - 1 MPG increase, you're doing pretty good.
The onle that allows you the most flexibility with the timing and rail pressure is the Smarty. But, for someone that is mostly stock and wants the truck to tow and daily drive, you don't need anything more than a Smarty Jr.
Even running all the BS that I am on this truck, I stll get 16 - 18 MPG in day to day driving and 20 - 21.5 on the highway, depending on speeds and terrain. Those are hand calculated numbers, not crap from the overhead lie-o-meter.
#19
Best way to increase mileage on a diesel is add more timing.
But, in order to do that, you need a tuner or module.....preferably a tuner.
Now, to be flat honest, NONE of the mileage claims by most of the manufacturers is even remotely close. If you see 1/2 - 1 MPG increase, you're doing pretty good.
The onle that allows you the most flexibility with the timing and rail pressure is the Smarty. But, for someone that is mostly stock and wants the truck to tow and daily drive, you don't need anything more than a Smarty Jr.
Even running all the BS that I am on this truck, I stll get 16 - 18 MPG in day to day driving and 20 - 21.5 on the highway, depending on speeds and terrain. Those are hand calculated numbers, not crap from the overhead lie-o-meter.
But, in order to do that, you need a tuner or module.....preferably a tuner.
Now, to be flat honest, NONE of the mileage claims by most of the manufacturers is even remotely close. If you see 1/2 - 1 MPG increase, you're doing pretty good.
The onle that allows you the most flexibility with the timing and rail pressure is the Smarty. But, for someone that is mostly stock and wants the truck to tow and daily drive, you don't need anything more than a Smarty Jr.
Even running all the BS that I am on this truck, I stll get 16 - 18 MPG in day to day driving and 20 - 21.5 on the highway, depending on speeds and terrain. Those are hand calculated numbers, not crap from the overhead lie-o-meter.
#20
Yes, definitely do the air intake and muffler replacement. Those are the two worst parts of the air path on the truck. Along with a gauge set, those are two things that you do want to do.
As for the leveling kit, yes, you need either coil spacers or springs replacements.
The alignment is good to get after the level, but the main thing you'll need is the steering wheel to be recentered. When you do the level, it's going to force the steering wheel to be cocked slightly to one side due to the change in height affecting the steering components. That's usually to only affected part.
As for the leveling kit, yes, you need either coil spacers or springs replacements.
The alignment is good to get after the level, but the main thing you'll need is the steering wheel to be recentered. When you do the level, it's going to force the steering wheel to be cocked slightly to one side due to the change in height affecting the steering components. That's usually to only affected part.