I've gotten SO MUCH helpful info from this forum the past week or so while I was having trouble with stalling and rough running in my 1994 B350 (see other thread). In the spirit of giving back, here's some things I wish I know now (or would have done first).

1. CLEAN YOUR IAC! Next time I'm having ANY trouble with stalling, the FIRST thing I'm going to do is check/clean the IAC. It fast, easy and can’t hurt. Mine was filthy. And although it wasn't the CAUSE of my problems, it certainly wasn't helping. Here’s a great DIY thread with pics. https://dodgeforum.com/forum/dodge-r...n-the-iac.html SPARK, FUEL, AIR - check the easy things first!

2. PROTECT YOUR GAS TANK HANGER BOLTS! I ended up replacing my fuel pump. Removing the gas tank wasn’t fun, mainly because my hanger bolts were REALLY rusty and corroded.

A tip: RIGHT NOW, go put some rubber tubing around your gas tank hanger bolts below the nuts to protect them. Trust me, I wish I would have done this a long time ago. Oh, and you’ll need a 9/16 deep socket (but you’ll probably have to use an open end wrench to get them started). Jack stands and a bottle jack are a godsend when lowering and raising the tank back in place.

Oh, and another tip: your gas tank filler seal (from the filler pipe to the actual gas tank) is probably shot. If you're going to take the gas tank off, go ahead and replace it. DORMAN Part # 577500 at your favorite parts source.

3. YOU CAN USE YOUR OLD FUEL REGULATOR WITH AIRTEX E7049M. I ordered a fuel pump from Amazon – Airtex E7049M, which they (and Airtex) list as a fit for my 1994 with the 5.9 engine. This model does NOT have a fuel regulator on it. (Airtex E7063M has the fuel regulator included.) I was kind of stuck, so I talked to Airtex tech support. They assured me from a performance/drivability standpoint, the 2 models were the same. So although they couldn’t LEGALLY recommend it, I took the regulator of my old pump and put it on the new Airtex. So far, no issues. I’d much rather have the E7063M. But if you’re in a pinch like I was . . .

4. TIE SOME FISHING LINE AROUND SMALL PARTS THAT GO IN TIGHT PLACES! I had to replace both temperature control sensors. The 1-wire unit for the fuel gauge is a little easier to get to, but the 2-wire temp control sensor that goes to the ECM is a bugger to get to – right beside where the upper radiator hose connects to the block. Again, deep sockets are a godsend. (But a heads up – one replacement sensor had a 9/16 nut instead of 1/2 inch like the OEM.) When I went to replace the TCS, I dropped it before I could get it threaded, and it disappeared somewhere under the alternator. And it’s all brass, so a magnet was no use. It didn’t drop out below, even after fishing around with a coat hanger for about an hour. RATS! Back to the store to get another one. This time, I tied a length of fishing line around the sensor. If I lost control of it again, I could retrieve it easily.


Hope these tips help!

 

Solid recommendations. Thank you for posting them and hopefully saving someone a lot of time/effort.

 

Wouldn't the rubber tubing hold water or moisture against those bolts causing more corrosion issues on them?

 

sweet

 

Not if you use tight enough rubber tubing. If you're REALLY ****, you can use zip ties and/or safety wire at the top/bottom of the tubing to make it SUPER watertight.

Another tip: use clear tubing so you can see what's going on inside.