I unplugged each module and sensor still no buss when it wont start. I did find the transmission range sensor/neutral safety switch electrical connector was fill of tranny fluid, it was dripping out of the male connector after i disconnected it for the test. I replaced it with no effect on the no buss problem. i did notice the dash indicators come on as i cycled through unplugging sensors and modules, ie airbag indicator on when airbag module unplugged. Still no codes stored in computer when it is working. During the last few months it has been hot outside, with no cold nights and the van has started only a few times maybe 1 time every 5 days. Now it is dropping down into the high 50's low 60's every night and not warming up above mid 80's daily and the van starts every time i try it. I am hoping for a few more hot days where it will not start anymore, so i can strap a couple ice packs to the pcm to cool it off and see if the problem goes away.

 

that is what mine was doing until about early June... cool mornings start... hot afternoons no start, no bus...
now I got no start no buss permanently...
although it has still been hi 60's mostly low 70's at night...
I tried putting PCM in fridge overnight but still would not start and no buss

how about we rename this problem to NO BUS NO HOPE

 

ok so i got it to die today by starting engine to heat it up. it died and would not restart. pcm felt pretty warm. I put it in the freezer for 30 minutes till it felt cold, and after replacing cold pcm into van it fired right up. i waited about 20 minutes till pcm was no longer cold and fired it up... only took a minute and it died. I noticed that even though it would not start gauges were working, gas temp and oil pressure. within seconds oil pressure and temp stopped working and gas gauge moved very slowly up, which is not normal usually it hops right up. back in the freezer went the pcm until it was cold again, and it fired right up again. I may do this again tomorrow if it gets hot enough. Pretty sure at this point i need a new pcm. Did you get your body control module back yet or still waiting.

 

take a picture of the PCM and post it... I have two... both are suspect but not necessarily proven bad either...

better yet here is my replacement PCM maybe it is the same part#???

second pic is the original PCM part#

 

Greetings Rsdata, While trying to research my Van problems I ran this post about yours. Am I missing something here, or "speaking without knowledge"? Your "ECU data" states 2001 Dodge Ram Van 2500 5.2L A.T But before the Bar Code is what appears to be a Date >>> 3/9/2016 Is what I'm believing to be a Date, just more Data, or, like some of the Equipment that I work on like Copeland & Manitowoc have the Manufacturers fouled up the Data plate?

 

It is a date code... represents the warranty date of the rebuilt PCM (ECU) I bought that I had hoped would solve my problem...

The original van is a '01 B2500... it still currently sits in my driveway suffering from the problem I described in several posts that started when I was 900 miles from home in the FL panhandle in February. After spending $250 at a FL dealership to get my dead van going, the tech explained he did NOT know what he did to get the van running again, but suspected a bad PCM, as several others on this forum also were convinced. After suffering a few more start then dies while spending winter in FL with my wife at various campgrounds, and spending most of my days troubleshooting this intermittant problem, I finally did order a rebuilt PCM from a Miami outfit... that PCM did not give me relief and acted the same as my original PCM. I have now given up on the van (I am not that patient anymore and I have exhausted every solution I could think of, EXCEPT to spend another $300 on another rebuilt PCM, that may or may not work)...

I have moved on and purchased a used 2014 RAM 1500 to pull my camper, but will forego the FL trip this winter to save the $$$ to help pay for the new rig...

As far as the IAC cleaning, it really is pretty simple... two screws, torx I think and an electrical connector at the rear of the throttle body connected to the valve (about 2 inches round I think)... disconnect the battery neg, remove the dog house and air cleaner and, move passenger seat out of the way... don't mechanically move the spring loaded IAC valve while spraying the black deposits off with carb cleaner... then screw back into place, reconnect the electrical connector and the battery cable... hopefully this fixes your surging/stalling problem.

I did this procedure about 4-5 years ago, and am recalling this procedure from memory... I think I got it right, not difficult, just, as I said do not manipulate the spring loaded valve, or you may ruin it and have to buy a new one.

Hope this helps

 

just waiting for the dough to order this

 

Rsdata, It's a shame that you had to get another vehicle, because of the problems that you were having. From experience, I know that you could recover some of your money, by parting it out, yet, that doesn't truly satisfy the stress, & time involved in trying to correct the problem(s). You are correct about the Torx screws (#20?) that hold the IAC to the throttle body, & the connector. Today, I'm going to drop & clean it, as well as do a more intensive cleaning of the Throttle body. I'm also thinking that part of the problem is being contributed by another control, possibly the EGR. In all truth, this is just as complicated as trying to figure out why a Walk-in cooler , or Heat pump isn't operating correctly, ... without the classroom/ hands on training. May Life be well with you Rsdata!

 

just got pcm from carcomputerexchange and van runs again. Whoot!!! They didnt have a replacment so they emailed me a prepaid shipping label and i sent them my pcm. they ran a test on a vehicle simulator with my pmc and told me it came back "no crank" and that it was probably a bad solder connection on back of board. they rebuilt it and poof van runs. cost 408 bucks for pcm rebuild + another 100 for crank sensor and neutral safety switch. Thanks to all for their help along the way

 

Ouch, I think Cardone does rebuilds for $250.