Alright, I can now admit that I am able to change out the lash adjusters in under 2 hours start to finish now.
Pulled everything apart again. I found that the straight pick out of a cheap Harbor Freight pick set is perfect for bleeding the lash adjusters. It is a cone shaped point that presses down the internal check/valve and the plunger at the same time to pump them up with oil quickly.
Long story short I must have been in a hurry the first time or just not thinking at all because I put 3 of them in upside down. Bled them and put them in the correct way and now everything is good. Fired it up and there are no noises or oil leaks. I guess the valve covers get tightened down until they are pretty tight. I just snugged them like I do most others but I guess they need more than I thought.

The wife will be taking the car out today so hopefully I can get a report on the oil light. I'll hit the highway and see if this clears up the CEL for "Misfire 3&6" as well. I see there have been quite a few views on this so hopefully it helps someone.
If I have one word of advise, it's to make sure you know how to do a timing belt on this engine before you tear into it. I've gone through a lot of trouble since I failed to get all the proper information before I did.

 

Check engine light has not come on yet which is a good sign. Oil light is still there even after a fresh 10w30 oil change. I finally came across a thread about vented oil pressure switch connectors and even found one that tells how to modify the factory connector without replacing it. Once I give it a try and if it works I'll post some more about it. I'll see if it works and follow it up with a proper oil pressure test just to verify switch operation.

 

I pulled the rubber seal off the connector to see if that would vent enough pressure from building in the connector. Did not solve it. Because of the fact that the exhaust smells like sulfer has me thinking it's a fueling issue. My next guess is Oxygen Sensor but there is no SES light. It did come on once but went away the next day and has not returned. So it's possible that is the problem and I'm going to feel stupid if that is what it was this whole time.
However...
Yesterday a guy down the street backed into the side of the car. No offense to anyone who really likes these cars but my fingers are crossed for it being totaled. I'm not one to give up in the face of a challenge but this car sucks. I'm decent at working on vehicles but my diagnostic ability needs work considering I do not have a code reader and have to rely on guessing/research based on symptoms.
One of these days I want a laptop and OBD2 to USB cables for real-time sensor monitoring.

Just a heads-up that this thread might come to an end.

 

Guess we're keeping the car. The struggle continues. I'll keep updating in case I actually fix the problem.

 

Did you ever pull the oil pan off? These engines had an issue with the oil pickup getting sludged and leaving a dime-size hole for oil to get through. The pump would pull oil and air alternately.

 

Acttally I have not yet. There was a lot about "sludge monster" but I never really understood why that would be a problem. I figured it was neglect but if it does it even with regular changes then it has to be something else causing it. Small coolant leak possibly?
I'll drop it when I do the O2 sensor and see what it looks like.

 

If some sludge collects inside the oil pickup tube, oil changes are not going to clean it out. That particular tube sits right on the bottom of the pan, so close that there is very little room compared to many other engines I've seen. It just takes one or two neglectful oil change intervals to start the clog piling up. Once that stuff gets congealed/hardens, the only way to move it is with a scraper. It may not be increasing, but it's likely not shrinking. Since you've gone so long with this problem the lifters will probably have to be replaced too.




This is concerning the 2.7L not the 2.5L


The coupe and the sedan are 2 completely different vehicles. The info on the net can be confusing because of this.

 

So I can forget about this with the 2.5?
I'll keep pressing on though. It's either fuel or ignition causing the Check Engine light.

 

No don't forget about it. I was speaking of the entire engine sludge issue the 2.7 has. The 2.5 had issues in the bottom of the pan.

What are the codes?

 

Besides the oil light that is on at idle after driving more than 20 minutes. It will flash CEL when at temp and approaching 70-75mph. The code that came up before I changed out the lash adjusters was Cylinder 3&6 Misfire. It still flashes like the CEL does when something is not right but I have not kept on it until the code is thrown.

My supercharged Grand Prix does the same flash when running regular fuel and entering boost... in other words detonation. That's why I'm persuing fuel/ignition problems.
Is it worth pulling the distributor to change the cam sensor?